Mountain Project Logo

What's your favorite obscure NH cliff?

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Yeah - Longstack doesn't get too crowded even with all the info online! Never quite understood that. Easy drive, easy approach. Plenty of choices!

In regards to the Sugarloafs - I posted up Middle and people do go out there but never crowded. Probably climbed there half a dozen times last year - most often a couple other parties and interestingly enough all climbers around my age - mid 50's. Never really ran into anybody "young" (as a relative term)! A couple times not another climber but plenty of hikers!

North Percy Peak is a great day out!

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Speaking oy young..years ago george hurley, then maybe 50 or so comes up to me and says "Want to do a new route" Like candy to a baby...."It's off Bear Notch"

OK, I know where BNR is and never really saw anythingof interest. We thrash pretty good for 45 minutes or so to this overhanging crack.."Ge george,it looks a bit bigger than hands ?"..He says I failed up there on aid because it was lined with ice !!!

This happens a lot out in the woods..you miss reality a bit.

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 110

I heard that the durham cliffs were crawling with poison ivy, any truth to that?N.percy was a fun solo, I been to the sugarloafs. I didnt think the tod swain routes were worth the paper to write them up. I think people like the social scene at rumney. And a lot of people dont like to carry a rack. And personally I dont like run out slab with 1/4 inch cap heads. Here is a good obscure area, lost river, some of the original routes have been reclaimed by lichen, but some of the new sport routes look fun but I cant get anyone to go there with me

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Yeah June there's sone prison ivy around the Durham cliffs. With that said I usually get it easily and don't even have to touch it it seems! Never here though so don't let that deter you.

I think all the Swain routes are north sugarloaf. A couple really nice routes on middle. All new bolts and / or well protected. I've taken a few folks out there.

Lost River - lots of routes as I've been told - and led to a few - we're all waiting for Sykes new guide book!

Nick Grant · · Tamworth, NH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 424

The rock band (or set of cliffs) that I was referring to earlier in the thread is located near the King Pine Ski Area in East Madison. More specifically, the crags are located just south and east of Purity Lake. If you walk in behind the Purity Spring resort ("Traditions" restaurant) on the cross-country ski trails for about a half-mile or so, you're there. You can easily see the cliffs if you are heading north on Rte. 153 from Effingham Falls. Just look out the driver's side window, and you can see them. The cliffs are pretty impressive, but I think that the rock is mostly choss. Anybody have more information?

Also, what's the name of the little cliff that is just south of Albany Slab? It's smaller, and may be too low angle for good climbing, but I've been looking at it out my car window all winter. Does it have any established routes on it? It looks like a mini-twin of Albany Slab. (And I'm not talking about Band M Ledge.)

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Random babbling on line does not ruin a crag. A good topo posted on line with a short approach can ruin a crag. people are afraid to explore, they want a sure thing. a good topo gives them that sense of confidence.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

It has got to be a really short approach. It seems like under 30 min is the limit for most people. 15 and many question the effort. An hour is "way out there". Hour and a half plus is qwazy. You might run into bears or your cell phone not work!

Have any alternatives to Rumney in NH been overrun lately? I can't think of any, even when people are spoon fed information. When we were developing Owls (off the Kanc.) some of us were worried about it getting out. Now, even with Jerry's guidebook and all the information here on MP, I doubt more than a handful of visitors go there each year. In Massachusetts, yes a good new crag would get overrun, but for the most part not NH. People need to explore more.

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 110

I am beginning to think Sykes will take the secrets of lost river to the grave with him, at least I will be collecting social security before the guide book comes out. He told me about it at least 15 years ago. But then again I remember when Echo was an obscure cliff. Speaking of obscure climbing, and I will probably get lynched for saying so, vt has some and now that there is a guide book my favorite obscure cliff has been over run.

Peter Lewis · · Bridgton, ME · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 165

Great thread! One of my favorites is White's Ledge in Bartlett. Just a nice spring and fall crag and quiet most of the time. Laid back (both in atmosphere and angle) and rarely busy. Just a nice place to be. And the upper pitches on Endeavor just never get old. It's only obscure because people don't want to drive ten minutes north of Cathedral and then hike (OMG) 15 minutes up a little hill. Oh, and if you want REALLY obscure classics, ask our own beloved woods gnome, Michael Hartrich (for $25 I'll tell you how you can find him).

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

I'd like to meet Mike. We could never figure out where his route 'Hunting Hawks' is out at Owls.. something thing like "follow flakes and corners" ..lots of them out there.

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Agreed Peter - Endeavor just never gets old! Attitash Crag is good fun too. Something about "walking / wading across the river" makes it seem adventurous!

With that - one cliff that I will never go back - Lost Ledge! And I might add Lincoln Crag (or whatever its called) to that list too!

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

If you top out Endeavor, then go along the ridge trail, several pretty good routes are up there. Then if your whacked, continue to Stairs (same trail) and do a route there.
Go down the trail to a pre placed bike and pedal back out jericho road and the back to White's

A really long day

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 110

I enjoyed found ledge. Actually I do a day at lincoln every couple of years, it was better years ago when everything was freshly scrubbed. Gotta love lichen if you are going adventure climbing in new england. what about olivarin? The new routes are pretty well bolted.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Nice granite, few routes..I feel like Tonto

Anybody ?

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
john strand wrote:Nice granite, few routes..I feel like Tonto
WHERE.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Should i violate guideline #1 and say "northern NH"

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
john strand wrote:Should i violate guideline #1 and say "northern NH"
Guess I better start walking.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

East side of Mt Hutchins..Pilot range

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Damn John! Give it up! I'll send beer!

I've actually not made my way over to Found ledge but hear good things about it. It's on the list for this year.

Would bet that some of the Lincoln Crag routes up high would have been OK when new - but they are nothing but lichen now!

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 110

Lincoln wasnt bad when it was freshly scrubed. Any one know any thing about the cliff, big one that you see when driving west on the kank, north of the road, before you get to lincoln?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
Post a Reply to "What's your favorite obscure NH cliff?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.