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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> P. Cathedral Area
> 5. Higher Cathedral Rock
Mary's Tears
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 13
votes
Routes in 5. Higher Cathedral Rock
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Blind Man's Bluff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blinded by the Light T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Book of Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Braille Book T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crucifix, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Generation Gap T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Last Crusade, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mary's Tears T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Northeast Buttress T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Perfect Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Power Point T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Remain in Light T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Renaissance Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Sequel, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sight Reader T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sound and Vision T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Syllable, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Bill Price & Mike Borris, May 1980 |
| Page Views: | 5,709 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Alexey Zelditch on Jun 5, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
It is great route, all 4 pitches long and interesting , and p2, p3 are classic and very sustain. Route has good ASCA bolts at each belay. Rappel route with two 60m ropes, or continue up NEB of HC, or Crucifix .
P1: has 3 variations : 11b on the left ( did not tried) , 10c in the middle - felt hard for the grade and difficult to protect well ( did on tr), and 5.8 left variation which is good crack, mostly hands. Belay at the bolts 130 ft.
P2. Nice clean left facing corner. Good climbing with some lay-backing bring you to the end of the pitch with tricky face move. As soon as you figure it out it is 10b. Belay at two bolts ancor at the base of huge left facing corner. long pitch ~150-160 ft.
P3. Continue corner up , great varied climbing . Pitch was dry and clean ( when topo show 10a wet and dirt) Spread hands size gear wisely for this pitch. The crux is turning the lip of overhanging wide hands crack in the corner and than thin hands in the corner- 11a, but felt like 10+, ~160 feet, two bolts belay.
P4. Has two variations. Right variation follow main left facing corner and has a difficult but well protected face move 11a (kind of mantel/high step on tiny ledges)
Looks like you can avoid hard section climbing 20 feet left from the corner in the groove (probably at 5.9? - did not tried) .
Both variations meet at route is finishing in the easy chimney to two bolts in the base of Crucifix . 150 feet
P1: has 3 variations : 11b on the left ( did not tried) , 10c in the middle - felt hard for the grade and difficult to protect well ( did on tr), and 5.8 left variation which is good crack, mostly hands. Belay at the bolts 130 ft.
P2. Nice clean left facing corner. Good climbing with some lay-backing bring you to the end of the pitch with tricky face move. As soon as you figure it out it is 10b. Belay at two bolts ancor at the base of huge left facing corner. long pitch ~150-160 ft.
P3. Continue corner up , great varied climbing . Pitch was dry and clean ( when topo show 10a wet and dirt) Spread hands size gear wisely for this pitch. The crux is turning the lip of overhanging wide hands crack in the corner and than thin hands in the corner- 11a, but felt like 10+, ~160 feet, two bolts belay.
P4. Has two variations. Right variation follow main left facing corner and has a difficult but well protected face move 11a (kind of mantel/high step on tiny ledges)
Looks like you can avoid hard section climbing 20 feet left from the corner in the groove (probably at 5.9? - did not tried) .
Both variations meet at route is finishing in the easy chimney to two bolts in the base of Crucifix . 150 feet
6 Comments