Mountain Project Logo

Free solo routes

Original Post
Ta Bloodstone · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 75

if you've been free soloing, can you share the routes that you've been soloing?

And please don't call me names. I gotta start somewhere by asking. Free soloing is not for everyone but I feel that it is for me.

Thanks

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740
mountainproject.com/v/goldi…

OH YEAAAA!

I'll share my DWS videos, too! If you can find your way to my videos page, hope you enjoy!

facebook.com/phutton01/medi…
James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166

Tab,

I won't call you names, but I will say that if you have to ask that question, you're probably less ready than you think you are. That's my two cents.

Cheers,
James

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847
James M Schroeder wrote:Tab, I won't call you names, but I will say that if you have to ask that question, you're probably less ready than you think you are. That's my two cents. Cheers, James
I'll add three cent.
Now we're up to a cool nickel.
germsauce Epstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 55

to me, this is something you kind of slide into. as in- your first few free solos should not really feel like that, they should be a grade that feels casual to you, something you'd only put a few pieces in because you have them or out of courtesy to your second, or something that makes sense to solo because it saves time in the alpine. Do a bunch of these and then you "slide" up by incrementally upping the grade/committment ante a little bit at a time.

deciding one day to go ropeless on something that really feels like "climbing" to you is a recipe for an uncomfortable mid-route meltdown or worse.

Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330

//Yoda Voice// The answer you seek, only Tab Yaj, can answer. //End Yoda Voice//

Jeremy Riesberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 5

My first solos were on the tourist rocks at Taylor's Falls.

Tim McCabe · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 130

This mountainproject.com/v/idi-a… when I was like 10. Back then it was just a way to get up something, now it's a route that people lead.

As a new climber back in the late 80's I started at Palisades this mountainproject.com/v/hang-… 5.6 version was my first top rope, mock lead, real lead, and FS all within that first summer climbing.

Not really something you should be asking about, well whatever, if your going to do this, you've got to start somewhere. Something really easy for you that you have done a few times and feel solid on. Always prepared to down climb.

I did a lot of easy solo stuff in the Needles back in the early 90's, no one thought I would live to 30, made it to 50 somehow. The Needles is perfect for easy solo's plus it gets the head ready for the long easy run outs when doing the old classics.

It's a rush that you need to be super careful with, like doing recreational drugs, it's not for everyone, and you need to understand the danger and don't fly to close to the sun.

Justin Compton · · Erie, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 785

Does Freeway count as a solo or is it just a scramble?

Jeremy Riesberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 5

Depending on your skill level, anything could be considered a scramble.

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

Find something you're interested in soloing, walk out there with just shoes and a chalk bag alone, and climb it. Tell no one about it because they'll only worry. Don't tell them you did it when you return, they won't understand.

My real feelings about it are: I believe that asking about soloing is a bad idea, because everyone has different standards and different limitations that are totally incalculable. It is such a ridiculously personal exercise, that I don't even think other's information is really useful. Unlike roped climbing, there is no standard or guidelines for soloing, there is no safe or unsafe techniques or methods.

I certainly am not calling names or being rude, I just believe that you're in the wrong place asking about beginning to free solo on an internet forum.

I think we're up to seven cents.

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

are you looking to onsight or repeat?

the rule of thumb i was taught is drop 4 number grades from where you are comfortable redpointing for onsighting solo. so if you climb 5.11, you shouldn't exceed 5.7 o.s.s. 5.10, you're in the 5.6 range.

maybe start out on some exposed 4th class, move up to soloing along with a partner, then see what your thoughts are

K R · · CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 50

I would not recommend that you solo, but if you choose to solo anyway, I would recommend something with small fall consequence. Something like an alpine route with no/low exposure and a short height of 4th/easy 5th class climbing where the trad gear would have minimal ability to protect you from ledges anyway.

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,375
Jeremy Riesberg wrote:Depending on your skill level, anything could be considered a scramble.
Anything I do cord-less is a scramble. I'm not ready to free-solo yet.
Matt Michael · · Oceanside, CA · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 20

I haven't given routes that I've freesolo'd much thought. I just felt compelled to do so whilst standing under it. The only other time was when I got a rope stuck and had to do it mostly out of necessity; it was that or leave the rope.

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740
Eli Buzzell wrote:Find something you're interested in soloing, walk out there with just shoes and a chalk bag alone, and climb it. Tell no one about it because they'll only worry. Don't tell them you did it when you return, they won't understand. My real feelings about it are: I believe that asking about soloing is a bad idea, because everyone has different standards and different limitations that are totally incalculable. It is such a ridiculously personal exercise, that I don't even think other's information is really useful. Unlike roped climbing, there is no standard or guidelines for soloing, there is no safe or unsafe techniques or methods. I certainly am not calling names or being rude, I just believe that you're in the wrong place asking about beginning to free solo on an internet forum. I think we're up to seven cents.
Welp, I wrote two paragraphs, then the internet f***ed up when I hit the submit button! I mentioned how everything I quoted above is a good read, I bolded the most important part to ME! Solo routes that you just HAVE to do! I soloed the route that I posted above because it doesn't interest me at ALL enough to set a top rope on, I only set it up for newb climber friends. It really bothered me when I saw it, and even when I was away from it. I felt it mocking me. I had to solo it to provide myself with some closure. I don't want an audience or any friends around when I solo. I don't wanna cause anyone any worry, and don't wanna get anyone involved in an accident I may have. The only soloing I do are scrambles up 5.5 (very rarely) and below, or deep water soloing. Solo for YOU! I don't think there's a right or wrong way to go about it. It's abnormal, a phenomenon. It's something that human beings aren't supposed to survive. It's one of those things that makes us so diverse. I wouldn't expect a dude with a big, nice house, suit w/ tie and briefcase, wife and kids, 9-5 office job to have his mind so hung up on this idea. This is something that freaks of nature want.
Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
Paul Hutton wrote: Welp, I wrote two paragraphs, then the internet f***ed up when I hit the submit button! I mentioned how everything I quoted above is a good read, I bolded the most important part to ME! Solo routes that you just HAVE to do! I soloed the route that I posted above because it doesn't interest me at ALL enough to set a top rope on, I only set it up for newb climber friends. It really bothered me when I saw it, and even when I was away from it. I felt it mocking me. I had to solo it to provide myself with some closure. I don't want an audience or any friends around when I solo. I don't wanna cause anyone any worry, and don't wanna get anyone involved in an accident I may have. The only soloing I do are scrambles up 5.5 (very rarely) and below, or deep water soloing. Solo for YOU! I don't think there's a right or wrong way to go about it. It's abnormal, a phenomenon. It's something that human beings aren't supposed to survive. It's one of those things that makes us so diverse. I wouldn't expect a dude with a big, nice house, suit w/ tie and briefcase, wife and kids, 9-5 office job to have his mind so hung up on this idea. This is something that freaks of nature want.
With you all the way my friend, I've pretty much called the solo limit 5.4 - 5.5 for myself, I rarely do it - mostly for things that I want to climb but don't want to bother with a rope on. On a wide scale we're pretty much all freaks anyway.
Doug Meneke · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

It's not about what others solo. It's all about you. I've soloed 300+ foot 5.7s which I had led multiple times. I got where I could skip bolts for speed, etc. You eventually get comfortable with it and can cruise it. Lead ANY climb dozens of times and your confidence improves. I've soloed a 20 foot 5.11 because of the soft landing. I've REFUSED to solo 5.8s because of the bad landing, too, even though I have NEVER fallen on lead. What is YOUR comfort zone. What climbs are YOU familiar with and enjoy.

Sean Foster · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 2,145

Tab - I'll take you to a spot I know this summer with a nice deep water landing. Maybe start there and get a feel for it?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
Post a Reply to "Free solo routes"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.