Free solo routes
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if you've been free soloing, can you share the routes that you've been soloing? |
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mountainproject.com/v/goldi…
OH YEAAAA! I'll share my DWS videos, too! If you can find your way to my videos page, hope you enjoy! facebook.com/phutton01/medi… |
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Tab, |
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James M Schroeder wrote:Tab, I won't call you names, but I will say that if you have to ask that question, you're probably less ready than you think you are. That's my two cents. Cheers, JamesI'll add three cent. Now we're up to a cool nickel. |
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to me, this is something you kind of slide into. as in- your first few free solos should not really feel like that, they should be a grade that feels casual to you, something you'd only put a few pieces in because you have them or out of courtesy to your second, or something that makes sense to solo because it saves time in the alpine. Do a bunch of these and then you "slide" up by incrementally upping the grade/committment ante a little bit at a time. |
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//Yoda Voice// The answer you seek, only Tab Yaj, can answer. //End Yoda Voice// |
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My first solos were on the tourist rocks at Taylor's Falls. |
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This mountainproject.com/v/idi-a… when I was like 10. Back then it was just a way to get up something, now it's a route that people lead. |
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Does Freeway count as a solo or is it just a scramble? |
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Depending on your skill level, anything could be considered a scramble. |
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Find something you're interested in soloing, walk out there with just shoes and a chalk bag alone, and climb it. Tell no one about it because they'll only worry. Don't tell them you did it when you return, they won't understand. |
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are you looking to onsight or repeat? |
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I would not recommend that you solo, but if you choose to solo anyway, I would recommend something with small fall consequence. Something like an alpine route with no/low exposure and a short height of 4th/easy 5th class climbing where the trad gear would have minimal ability to protect you from ledges anyway. |
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Jeremy Riesberg wrote:Depending on your skill level, anything could be considered a scramble.Anything I do cord-less is a scramble. I'm not ready to free-solo yet. |
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I haven't given routes that I've freesolo'd much thought. I just felt compelled to do so whilst standing under it. The only other time was when I got a rope stuck and had to do it mostly out of necessity; it was that or leave the rope. |
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Eli Buzzell wrote:Find something you're interested in soloing, walk out there with just shoes and a chalk bag alone, and climb it. Tell no one about it because they'll only worry. Don't tell them you did it when you return, they won't understand. My real feelings about it are: I believe that asking about soloing is a bad idea, because everyone has different standards and different limitations that are totally incalculable. It is such a ridiculously personal exercise, that I don't even think other's information is really useful. Unlike roped climbing, there is no standard or guidelines for soloing, there is no safe or unsafe techniques or methods. I certainly am not calling names or being rude, I just believe that you're in the wrong place asking about beginning to free solo on an internet forum. I think we're up to seven cents.Welp, I wrote two paragraphs, then the internet f***ed up when I hit the submit button! I mentioned how everything I quoted above is a good read, I bolded the most important part to ME! Solo routes that you just HAVE to do! I soloed the route that I posted above because it doesn't interest me at ALL enough to set a top rope on, I only set it up for newb climber friends. It really bothered me when I saw it, and even when I was away from it. I felt it mocking me. I had to solo it to provide myself with some closure. I don't want an audience or any friends around when I solo. I don't wanna cause anyone any worry, and don't wanna get anyone involved in an accident I may have. The only soloing I do are scrambles up 5.5 (very rarely) and below, or deep water soloing. Solo for YOU! I don't think there's a right or wrong way to go about it. It's abnormal, a phenomenon. It's something that human beings aren't supposed to survive. It's one of those things that makes us so diverse. I wouldn't expect a dude with a big, nice house, suit w/ tie and briefcase, wife and kids, 9-5 office job to have his mind so hung up on this idea. This is something that freaks of nature want. |
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Paul Hutton wrote: Welp, I wrote two paragraphs, then the internet f***ed up when I hit the submit button! I mentioned how everything I quoted above is a good read, I bolded the most important part to ME! Solo routes that you just HAVE to do! I soloed the route that I posted above because it doesn't interest me at ALL enough to set a top rope on, I only set it up for newb climber friends. It really bothered me when I saw it, and even when I was away from it. I felt it mocking me. I had to solo it to provide myself with some closure. I don't want an audience or any friends around when I solo. I don't wanna cause anyone any worry, and don't wanna get anyone involved in an accident I may have. The only soloing I do are scrambles up 5.5 (very rarely) and below, or deep water soloing. Solo for YOU! I don't think there's a right or wrong way to go about it. It's abnormal, a phenomenon. It's something that human beings aren't supposed to survive. It's one of those things that makes us so diverse. I wouldn't expect a dude with a big, nice house, suit w/ tie and briefcase, wife and kids, 9-5 office job to have his mind so hung up on this idea. This is something that freaks of nature want.With you all the way my friend, I've pretty much called the solo limit 5.4 - 5.5 for myself, I rarely do it - mostly for things that I want to climb but don't want to bother with a rope on. On a wide scale we're pretty much all freaks anyway. |
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It's not about what others solo. It's all about you. I've soloed 300+ foot 5.7s which I had led multiple times. I got where I could skip bolts for speed, etc. You eventually get comfortable with it and can cruise it. Lead ANY climb dozens of times and your confidence improves. I've soloed a 20 foot 5.11 because of the soft landing. I've REFUSED to solo 5.8s because of the bad landing, too, even though I have NEVER fallen on lead. What is YOUR comfort zone. What climbs are YOU familiar with and enjoy. |
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Tab - I'll take you to a spot I know this summer with a nice deep water landing. Maybe start there and get a feel for it? |