Placing hexes in it's cammed position in horizontal cracks
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I have a pic of a torque nut placement from a couple months ago that might be helpful: I placed this as 1 of 3 pieces in an equalette anchor (Other pieces were nuts.) These torque nuts were new to me so I was experimenting (not belaying anyone). I placed it so that the sling faced sort of "across" the direction of pull (down and out - this was a fairly high placement) and so when weighted this caused the hex to "torque" into the rock. Obviously no good for upward pull, but for what's it for, good enough. I should note the crack was not icy, so I had good surface contact on both sides of the piece. |
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get some tri cams |
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Hey hexes are great dude but man you need to relax, go smoke some herbal remedies :) |
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tenpins wrote:get some tri camsExactly. If for whatever reason passive pro is how it has to be (although I think two weekends of moving heavy objects or painting would vaporize the financial restrictions), then Tricams have decades of proven performance in basically any horizontal placement where you could fit a hex, and a ton of other crazy placements where no other piece of any kind will work. Cheap, bomber, and only slightly more irritating to clean than a hex. |
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FWIW, this is one of my favorite hex placements. The hex goes in endwise into a horizontal that expands in the back. It then rotates clockwise and cams in the narrow part. Additionally, the rock has a lip that further prevents the hex from moving. |
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Jacob Koffler wrote:Hey hexes are great dude but man you need to relax, go smoke some herbal remedies :) |
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wivanoff wrote:FWIW, this is one of my favorite hex placements. The hex goes in endwise into a horizontal that expands in the back. It then rotates clockwise and cams in the narrow part. Additionally, the rock has a lip that further prevents the hex from moving. I've tried regular cams here but, if they walk back into the wide part, they can umbrella.Is that an HB Quadratic ?! |
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Matthew Williams 1 wrote:I have a pic of a torque nut placement from a couple months ago that might be helpful... I placed it so that the sling faced sort of "across" the direction of pull (down and out - this was a fairly high placement) and so when weighted this caused the hex to "torque" into the rock.Based only on the photo you provided that actually looks like a passive hex placement: there is no rotational moment being imparted on the hex by the sling. If you flipped the hex around so the sling exited on the R then it would add that additional rotational force i.e. "torque." Could still be a fine placement either way, just realize how the direction of the sling plays a role. |
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verticon wrote: Is that an HB Quadratic ?!No, it's a Black Diamond |
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Linnaeus wrote: Based only on the photo you provided that actually looks like a passive hex placement: there is no rotational moment being imparted on the hex by the sling. If you flipped the hex around so the sling exited on the R then it would add that additional rotational force i.e. "torque." Could still be a fine placement either way, just realize how the direction of the sling plays a role.Thanks for the additional help on my placement there Linnaeus - much appreciated! |
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After all this tricam talk and even with the second set of Torque Nuts my GF just gave me as a gift, we both decided more tricams were a good idea. Just got a 3, 3.5 and 4. Not to replace the cams of course, just as another option. |