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What's your favorite obscure NH cliff?

Nick Grant · · Tamworth, NH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 424

What's the name of the cliff in the woods behind the Purity Springs Resort in Madison? Ian and I hiked in there two winters ago to see if there were any good lines on it. We did see a few old bolts. Does that cliff (or band of cliffs) have a name? Anybody climbed up there? There are also some good looking boulders at the bottom. It's a bushwhack to get in there, but not too long.

Also, I know a great boulder, but it will no longer be obscure if I write about it here. It has fifteen good routes on it (mostly slab/crimp/smear climbs) and great landing areas. Charlie Townsend knows the big piece of granite that I'm talking about (and it ain't the Madison Boulder).

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

There are plenty of relatively obscure bolted routes. If you base it on number of visitors and time to get out there, even Owls Cliff (the one off of Bear Notch Rd) is "obscure", which is kind of crazy to me. That place has all kinds and grades of routes, even fully sported up ones. Of course there are different grades of obscure. You could try to find some of Bradley Whites out there routes if you really want to go for it.

I think the key to enjoying some of the further out crags that still have a good number of routes is to dedicate a few weeks to them at a time and find a good hidden spot that nobody else will find and stash your heavier gear in a dry bag. Your next trip out with a nice light pack is a whole different experience. The first time out, with a full pack, and finding your way, you are probably going to be beat.

As far as obscure sport areas, there is Pikes Ledge. It is on private land, a little south of Rumney and west of Groton. The owner seemed fine with a few of us climbing there as long as you were very careful to park so you wouldn't interfere with the logging going on. It probably wouldn't work if more than a small number visited (carpool from the village so there is only one car parked there. I haven't been there in almost 10 years, but last I knew there were about 8 routes, including 2 of possibly the steepest routes in NH (12B or Cs, one called "My Newest Favorite Route -FA Brady Libby) and a mid 13 project. There were some OK 10s, including one I put up but can't remember the name ( a little sharp and crystally for my taste) The rock is like the New Wave.

Durrel Hill has some Rumnyesque climbs and rock (some really good), but it is in kind of a hick area and there is some bad poison ivy.

I wouldn't really call Woodchuck or Sundown obscure. Great routes at both and pretty quick approach. Not more popular I think because, beyond the classics, some of the routes suffer from an odd mix of early "experimental" sport and trad ethic. Some lovin' i.e. scrubbing and occasional rethink of some of the routes would do wonders for both crags IMO (the latter probably not going to happen)

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
beensandbagged wrote: If there are bolted routes is it still an obscure cliff? Seems bolted routes are a definite sign of civilization and maybe not so obscure.
Haha.. This sounds like the attitude the developer got when he tried to buy the bolts from IME.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Obscure and remote are very different things....There's a crag near Lancaster NH that's very easy to get to, yet few know about it..it's even kinda clean !

Or a place like Green's that's much farther from the road and better known.

Yes, Nick.the old Jimmie Dunn 'Youth Challenge Slab " ?? i think private now ? Or Redstone Quarry, one of bob Parrot's old areas.. OR

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,506

Perhaps I could interest you in something 20 min from Rumney that is pretty cool.

mountainproject.com/v/west-…

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616
Eli Buzzell wrote:Perhaps I could interest you in something 20 min from Rumney that is pretty cool. mountainproject.com/v/west-…
What's the grade during the more runout sections of those two climbs?
Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,506
Kevin Heckeler wrote: What's the grade during the more runout sections of those two climbs?
5.6ish? There may be a harder than that move in a few places, but it isn't too bad. There are a lot of good stances to hang out at, and I didn't even cry on the FA. If you can lead a solid 5.9+ I'd say go for it as long as you are a competent leader everything should go well. After the first piece the 5.6 route is pretty cruiser and more PG-13 than R in my opinion. I wound up running out Death Wish about 90' up the easier stuff.
If you're super awesome at slab climbing I definitely recommend trying the mysterious bolted lines on the cliff's right side.

  • Edited for clarity.
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

NH/ME border but Wild River is amazing... Shagg too.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090
Morgan Patterson wrote:NH/ME border but Wild River is amazing... Shagg too.
Shell Pond in the same area (and also on a Rattlesnake Mountain like Rumney - those rattlesnakes know good crags) has really good schist sport climbing. There is not much information here on MP yet (lots more routes in the 10 -12 range)but Handren's North Conway guidebook was pretty up to date as of 2012. If it was a little less of a drive for me I would go there a lot more. It is very good.

If you don't have the guide, the website for it has some good photos northconwayrockclimbs.com/n…
Harrison Harb · · Portland · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 145

Yes to Shell Pond. Absolutely worth going out there.

Jeffrey LeCours · · New Hampshire · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,381
M Sprague wrote:There are plenty of relatively obscure bolted routes. If you base it on number of visitors and time to get out there, even Owls Cliff (the one off of Bear Notch Rd) is "obscure", which is kind of crazy to me. That place has all kinds and grades of routes, even fully sported up ones. Of course there are different grades of obscure....
This is a good thread. "Obscure" definitely has a different meaning from person to person and I purposely didn't give a good definition for my question. I was curious what obscure meant to folks here.

Mark, I think you've done a great job at making Greens Cliff look really appealing (and Owls Cliff too) for anyone looking for info on them on this website. Handren's guide also gives good information on them too. Those cliffs seem less obscure than others that I had seen documented years ago. For example, Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian Notch) looks massive but it seems significantly less inviting (and therefore more obscure, maybe?).

So does a well documented approach, route, anchor descriptions make an area less obscure? I really enjoy and appreciate the telephoto topos and approach images Robert Hall has been providing for places like Bear Mountain, Rainbow Slabs, Table Mountain, etc. In fact, his info for Table Mountain gives a great idea of what you're getting into (perhaps robbing the mystery... but if you don't like it don't look) -- but does this make Table Mountain less obscure? Probably not.
Ira OMC · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 273

It seems like if obscurity means not many or any people, then pretty much anywhere in NH except the cathedral/whitehorse area and Rumney could be considered obscure. For my part, I only have climbed at places that have been published in guidebooks, which would probably make them not obscure, if un- populated. I don't have the connections to know of the secret cliffs, but I'd love to ask John Strand about the cliff near lancaster, nh. My Mom lives right over there!

Ira OMC · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 273

I guess i should actually contribute: I climbed at Albany Slabs a couple weeks ago, and that was sweet, and seemed pretty obscure despite a short approach and being in the N. Conway vicinity. a perfect afternoon on a cool but sunny day, getting some very welcome vitamin D.

Nick Grant · · Tamworth, NH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 424

Hey Strandman, does Albany Slabs count as being "obscure"?

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

no-- it's not remote. obscure or protected

Maybe private though

Noe percy Peaks region ????????

Ira OMC · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 273
Nick Grant wrote:What's the name of the cliff in the woods behind the Purity Springs Resort in Madison? Ian and I hiked in there two winters ago to see if there were any good lines on it. We did see a few old bolts. Does that cliff (or band of cliffs) have a name? Anybody climbed up there? There are also some good looking boulders at the bottom. It's a bushwhack to get in there, but not too long.
Do you mean Pine mountain, near Mt. Madison off the Dolly Copp rd.?
june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 110

Will it still be an obscue cliff if you write about it on line? I hate what posting things on line has done to back country skiing, so I am hesitant to post, if you want to visit one with me , send me an email, I love exploring obscue cliffs

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

I don't mind sharing outta the way, obscure climbing areas. For the most part I think a lot of today's climbers have lost the sense of adventure. You still have to WANT to explore!

Hell, we can get to Rumney early on a Saturday, hike up to the Hinterlands and have it to ourselves for a couple hours before anyone else bothers to "make the way that far up the hillside." While most are queuing at the parking lot wall and meadows!

So I think for the most part obscure cliffs are gonna remain obscure. I'd say the half dozen of us on this thread would probably search some of these mentioned obscure cliffs out knowing that its gonna be a "good day out" (they're all good days as long as you've had fun).

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640
Ira O'Meara wrote: Do you mean Pine mountain, near Mt. Madison off the Dolly Copp rd.?
nope, that's another place.

I think posting up stuff rarely leads to crowding since most people won't do a multi hour bushwhack. also very few are really into backcountry new routing,,they say they want to, but not really. Even a crag like the captain, which required very little cleaning was a major job. hand drilling only, long approach, etc.

Also, folks used to really keep things secret. I couldn't get any info on say, Crack In the Woods..people were just silent...Well two can play that game, i got to the point where i wouldn't sat shit to any Conway "locals".

Speaking of King Ravine ???/
Jeffrey LeCours · · New Hampshire · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,381
Mark NH wrote:I don't mind sharing outta the way, obscure climbing areas. For the most part I think a lot of today's climbers have lost the sense of adventure. You still have to WANT to explore! Hell, we can get to Rumney early on a Saturday, hike up to the Hinterlands and have it to ourselves for a couple hours before anyone else bothers to "make the way that far up the hillside." While most are queuing at the parking lot wall and meadows! So I think for the most part obscure cliffs are gonna remain obscure. I'd say the half dozen of us on this thread would probably search some of these mentioned obscure cliffs out knowing that its gonna be a "good day out" (they're all good days as long as you've had fun).
This kind of goes to my point earlier. The "obscure" doesn't have to be that out of the way. Take Rumney as an example - I can't tell you the number of times I've arrive to a 20 person horde of people sitting along the ledge of The Hinterlands when maybe 10yds away Yellowknife is empty. Is it lack of knowledge? the grades? the fact there's a hill? It's kind of odd. Likewise, I'd like to guess that 95% of Rumney goers have never climbed at the Summit Crag. "Outta the way" is relative.

I keep using the New Durham crags as an example. 243 route entries on Mountain Project, yet those crags are still often a ghost town. South facing, mix of trad and bolted climbs, about the same distance from MA as Rumney is. Hrmm? My guess is that Rumney still isn't crowded enough to deter those driving up from the south.

When folks post about their day trips to Carter Ledge, North Bald Cap, North Percy Peak with gps tracks, photos, and descriptions... they don't get over crowded. Even 10 minute approaches like Whites Ledge (Bartlett) and Mt Willard have always been quiet when I visit.

I can understand not wanting to share the secret sweet spots. I know I've been mindful of places with sensitive access. I'm also respectful of areas that have recently undergone tons of development in respect of guidebook authors excited to share. I'm mostly interested in places that are still great that might have got lost in time (Middle/North Sugarloaf? Crag Y?).... not Tripoli Road Crag (sorry Bradley, heh).
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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