Type: Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches
FA: Garry Allan, Victor Marcus, John Hoffman 1979
Page Views: 997 total · 9/month
Shared By: Patrick Mulligan on May 3, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This route is badass. Even more badass is that Gary Allan climbed and bolted it onsight, ground up.

Pitch one of the route starts about 30' from the left side of the wall and directly below the end of the arching crack that makes up the middle 1/3 of the route. There is about a 20' runout up 5.9+/5.10- slab to the first bolt (a nice new 1/2" ASCA 5-piece). There is then another 20' of runout up the slab into the bottom of the arching crack. Follow the arching crack through a couple of cruxy sections with very thin feet to a belay on a small ledge (tall reach to the new belay bolts (one ASCA 5 piece and one 3/8" bolt).

Now make difficult and balancey moves clipping the 1st bolt on the second pitch and then follow the hand crack up through a couple of bulges to the replaced anchor.

Location Suggest change

The route starts under the bottom of the arching crack.

Protection Suggest change

There is 1 protection bolt per pitch. Double Rack to #3 w/ an extra #2 and a single #4.

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