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Best Time of Year for Grand Traverse

Original Post
Josh Allred · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 161

My climbing partner got a new job and will only have time to give it 1 shot this season. When is the best time of year to give the Grand Traverse a try? We were thinking the last week of August. With the kind of snow we had this year can we go little earlier? Any other info is appreciated. Thanks.

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10
Josh Allred wrote:My climbing partner got a new job and will only have time to give it 1 shot this season. When is the best time of year to give the Grand Traverse a try? We were thinking the last week of August. With the kind of snow we had this year can we go little earlier? Any other info is appreciated. Thanks.
You probably don't want to carry ice axe and crampons, so anytime after thesnow melts. Labor Day is usually a good bet. Other than that depends on the snow year. Not sure how things are this year.
Ty Falk · · Huntington, VT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 280

I am trying to give it a go this summer as well Josh. From my trips up there this winter it seams like the park has a average to slightly below average snowpack. Mostly dry already below 8k. I would think early August might be possible if we see a dry rest of the spring and a normal summer. Last year the amount of rain and bad storms during the summer seamed to have really made the Grand Traverse a challenge. The "monsoon" like weather last year caused lots of rockfall on a number of places along the traverse and even a few accidents.

Josh Hohner · · Canton, MI · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

I have also been giving the traverse a lot of thought. Do you guys know if the rappels could be done on a 60M 7/8mm tagline?

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50
fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

I would shoot for earlier if you can if you are looking for summery conditions. A few years back I went out there over Labor Day to solo it, and a storm laid a sheet of ice on the N face of the Grand. I dropped by Exum to get a conditions report, and they looked at me like I was crazy for coming out there so late in the season.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318
Josh Hohner wrote:I have also been giving the traverse a lot of thought. Do you guys know if the rappels could be done on a 60M 7/8mm tagline?
According to Rolando Garibotti's excellent beta, yes.
Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 401

We did it in early August 2013, which I think was an average snow year, and it was fine.

One disadvantage of waiting until very late in the season is that the bivy sites might be dry. Of course if your name is Alex or Rolando that's not an issue.

Although it was mostly snow-free we took aluminum crampons and lightweight axes (BD Venom or similar). We used them in a couple of places, such as the Koven Col and the col between the Ice Cream Cone & Gilkey Tower. I don't think those ever melt out, and later in the season isn't necessarily better, because you might have to deal with bare ice instead of soft snow.

Neil Grimaldi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 0

A 60m rope will get you through the GT fine. This year was a low snow year and the peaks are melting out quickly. I would not wait until late august to go as winter storms can drop snow and verglas-up the north ridge by then (like last summer). Early August in a non-monsoonal system would be best bet. The best weather forecast for the tetons is mountainweather.com and ideally you want 0% chance of thunderstorms.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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