Katana lace sizing vs TC pro: up, down or the same?

I want to try some shoes with not too aggressive downturn. Wear TC pro for trad, well broken in 42.5 are close to all day shoes. I have arthritis in big toe and can't wear shoes tight tight. Would Katanas in 42.5 be same fit, should I go up or down 1/2 size?

Thanks

Don't know about the lace, but my Katana velcros and my TC pros are the same size (as are my Miura and Miura VS)

I wear a 39 TC pro and a 39 katana lace. The TCs are a perfect fit for their application. The katana lace are pretty tight but are wearing in nice. I could feasible go a half size down in the katanas but I'd HAVE to take them off after every route. A half size larger and they could be comfortable all day I think. For there application, the 39 is perfect for me.

I go up a half size from my solutions or Miura lace ups, feels like the forefoot is a bit more snug than the other sportiva shoes. So good though, worth getting a pair for sure.

mountainproject.com/v/tc-pr…

Chris Massey wrote: mountainproject.com/v/tc-pr…

Thanks I already read that. There are only two posts that address this sizing comparison which directly contradict each other, so the info is a wash.

The specific question is TC pro vs Katana lace fit from people that have actually used both. While other input is appreciated, comparisons to other models and brands doesn't really help me. I can only compare to shoes I have actually climbed in and the TC pros are the only currently produced shoe I have to compare. I edited the title of the thread so hopefully it is a bit clearer.

I surmise that some people buy Katanas smaller for the toe crush, but I can't do that. While I want to give the downturns a whirl, I have to fit them MORE comfortably than flat lasted shoes without adding actual slop.

With the little input so far, seems sizing up in Katanas is probably a better bet for me.

I size down 1/2 size in the katana. Tighter fit, but my big toe is in about the same place at the end of the shoe.

Lothian Buss wrote:I size down 1/2 size in the katana. Tighter fit, but my big toe is in about the same place at the end of the shoe.

All day fit or take them off every pitch?

Thanks

In between 1/3rd day fit? I have a shorter big toe, so the shoe wouldn't be as good as the TC pro for me in an all day fit.

Lothian Buss wrote:In between 1/3rd day fit? I have a shorter big toe, so the shoe wouldn't be as good as the TC pro for me in an all day fit.

Thanks

For what it's worth. A TC Pro in a 46 is simply too small. A Katana Lace in a 46 is tight but wearable - wouldn't call it an all day shoe but not too bad either. The big difference for me is the heel - on the TC Pro the slingshot part doesn't stretch to fit at all(at least for me)- hurts my achilles and pushes my toes forward to the point of not being comfortable. The Katana heel doesn't bite the same way and is a lot more comfortable.

My largest 3 toes are all fairly close to the same length - the TC Pro and Katana seem to have the same toe box shape. I wish they made both shoes a half size bigger.

Thanks for the input, I never had any heel problem with TCs.

I wear a 45 in the TC Pro. It is a little snug at first, but breaks in nicely. I also wear a 45 in the Katana lace, but would go up a 1/2 size if I could. They are tighter and less sensative than I would prefer for a steeper climbing shoe.

Adam Tripp wrote:I wear a 45 in the TC Pro. It is a little snug at first, but breaks in nicely. I also wear a 45 in the Katana lace, but would go up a 1/2 size if I could. They are tighter and less sensative than I would prefer for a steeper climbing shoe.

Excellent thanks!

I have both the TC pro's and the Katana Laces. Both 46's. Two very different shoes, in my opinion at the same size. I too have arthritis in several of my toes, and there are certain foot positions that I absolutely avoid doing so I don't experience that certain twinge in my affected toes. I'm a sz 12.5 street shoe. I have a very flat foot.

That being said, I can wear the TC pro's comfortably right out of the box, my toes with plenty of room. I can step on holds and edges in ways that minimize the pain. My toes lie flat so that the bone spurs aren't pushed up against the top of the shoes. This allows me to comfortably torque my feet in cracks without the knuckles of my toes hitting the edges of the crack. I dont have to take them off between pitches. I can get them resoled and easily tolerate the 1/2 size reduction in size.

The Katana laces (I was trying to break a pair of resoled ones in last night) are a completely different story, also at sz 46. They have a semi aggressive downturn. No big deal for those with healthy toes, but a huge deal for those of us with arthritic, f'd up toes. That downturn pushes the bone spurs up against the top of the shoe, causing painful inflammation and friction. Just try jamming in cracks as those same toe knuckles are grinding against the sides 0f the crack. When on face routes, the pain is such that I avoid certain (necessary) foot positions to avoid painful toe pressure associated with my toes being at the absolute end of the shoes, and being forced downwards. If you're able to get through the painful process of breaking in a new pair, wear them out and get them resoled, you'll have to go through that break in process again when they're a half size smaller. I tried last night and am just not willing to go through that again, especially when the TC pro's are so comfy and climb just fine.

All that being said, I'm restrained by the fact that Katana's don't come any larger than 46. I might have a different opinion if there were a 47 available.

Hope I didn't ramble too much...

Jplotz wrote:I have both the TC pro's and the Katana Laces. Both 46's. Two very different shoes, in my opinion at the same size. I too have arthritis in several of my toes, and there are certain foot positions that I absolutely avoid doing so I don't experience that certain twinge in my affected toes. I'm a sz 12.5 street shoe. I have a very flat foot. That being said, I can wear the TC pro's comfortably right out of the box, my toes with plenty of room. I can step on holds and edges in ways that minimize the pain. My toes lie flat so that the bone spurs aren't pushed up against the top of the shoes. This allows me to comfortably torque my feet in cracks without the knuckles of my toes hitting the edges of the crack. I dont have to take them off between pitches. I can get them resoled and easily tolerate the 1/2 size reduction in size. The Katana laces (I was trying to break a pair of resoled ones in last night) are a completely different story, also at sz 46. They have a semi aggressive downturn. No big deal for those with healthy toes, but a huge deal for those of us with arthritic, f'd up toes. That downturn pushes the bone spurs up against the top of the shoe, causing painful inflammation and friction. Just try jamming in cracks as those same toe knuckles are grinding against the sides 0f the crack. When on face routes, the pain is such that I avoid certain (necessary) foot positions to avoid painful toe pressure associated with my toes being at the absolute end of the shoes, and being forced downwards. If you're able to get through the painful process of breaking in a new pair, wear them out and get them resoled, you'll have to go through that break in process again when they're a half size smaller. I tried last night and am just not willing to go through that again, especially when the TC pro's are so comfy and climb just fine. All that being said, I'm restrained by the fact that Katana's don't come any larger than 46. I might have a different opinion if there were a 47 available. Hope I didn't ramble too much...

Same problem for me with downturns in general. I may be outta my mind to even try them, but...

I think 1/2 size larger could possibly ease the crunch. Looks like I'll try 43s.

I have never had a 1/2 size reduction from resoles, just a slight shrink that stretches right out first pitch on again.

Chris Rice wrote:I wish they made both shoes a half size bigger.

Amen! I wear the Katanas in 46 for gym and single-pitch, but the 46 TCs are too fight for an all-day multi-pitch fit. C'mon Sportiva. Give us a 46.5!

Just go 47 for Christ's sake!