Fear of clipping

Hey guys,

I've noticed recently that I have a pretty big problem that I think has been holding my climbing back -- fear of clipping. To be clear, I'm not particularly scared of falling, at least not in the gym (outside there's a bit of heart racing that's subsiding with experience), just clipping. It goes like this:

I'm flowing through this route great, the pump's starting to come on, but nothing too bad. I get to a clip, take my hand off for a split second and don't feel confident, experiment with different stances, hand comes off and on a few times, eventually I decide I'd rather fall than blow the clip (and by this point I'm pretty exhausted) so I fall even though I originally could have continued climbing no problem if not for the clip in the way.

My clips are actually pretty fast, I fumble maybe 1 in 30 clips these days if that, and I don't mind whipping, I just can't get over my fear of blowing clips and I think it's really holding back my climbing. Does anyone have any advice for how I might approach this? Right now I'm thinking of going up on an autobelay with a practice rope and practicing clipping in increasingly sketchy situations until I blow the clip so I can figure out exactly how much time I have, but I'm looking for any more ideas.

Matt

Practice lockoffs?

Clip at your waist. Then falling while clipping is the same as falling instead of trying to clip.

+1 ^^^^ this...

also, hangboarding may help you develop your ability to hang on a small hold, or at least understand your strength so you know how long you can expect your grip to last as you're clipping.

I've struggled with this too, and worked on it by clipping at the waist in the gym to the extent possible. For a long time I felt limited in what routes I could try not because I was worried about the moves but because of the clips.

I've blown a clip and decked as a result. I think never ever blowing a clip is a good rule for sport climbing. Maybe it's holding me back just a bit but it's also keeping me safe.

Nathanael wrote:Clip at your waist. Then falling while clipping is the same as falling instead of trying to clip.

This is a good rule of thumb for bolting routes as well.

clearly not a physical issue but mental. If you can whip then tell that little voice to STFU and just put the rope through the biner. You've subconsciously encouraged this fear by letting it get this far.

AndyMac wrote:clearly not a physical issue but mental. If you can whip then tell that little voice to STFU and just put the rope through the biner. You've subconsciously encouraged this fear by letting it get this far.

AKA quit being a wussbag?

I think it's important to understand your fear. Think about it until you can state what is bothering you. The pressure will lessen once you understand it. Then you tell your mind that you have acknowledged the issue but you safety is best served if these thoughts are suppressed while your focus and cool is heightened.

Matthew Albrecht wrote:I get to a clip, take my hand off for a split second and don't feel confident, experiment with different stances, hand comes off and on a few times, eventually I decide I'd rather fall than blow the clip (and by this point I'm pretty exhausted) so I fall even though I originally could have continued climbing no problem if not for the clip in the way.

I'm not sure what level you're climbing at, but unless you're doing some really desperate clip on a fairly hard route, it's most likely you're not finding a balanced body position to clip from. I sometimes see my partner struggle with this as well, he would try to clip from a fairly off balanced position and pump himself out. Obviously there are desperate clips where you have to pull hard, try to clip fast, and hope you don't fall off in the process. But most of the time, especially on the easier routes, you should look for your clipping stance like your rest stance, i.e., you should be able to comfortably hang from one (straight) arm for a while without feeling too stressed. What I see my partner sometimes do (and maybe this can help you too) is that he tries to clip in the middle of a move by simply take one hand off. This often put him in an off balanced position, not very noticeable when he is climbing, but quite stressful when he's stopped for more than a few seconds. So if you can't feel confident to let go of one hand for more than a split second, my guess is that you're not in a balanced position to clip from. Analyze your clipping stances and see if that's the case.

I agree with Andy, that this is a mental issue. Mental strength is gained using the same tactic as increasing physical strength: Practice/repetition with graduated resistance.

Climb a lot of routes that are relatively easy for you. Focus on relaxing while clipping. Take lots of intentional (safe) falls. Do this regularly for a few weeks.

Climb more routes that are nearer your limit. Relax, clip, repeat. Another few weeks. Increase difficulty.

So many people think they can increase their mental strength in a single gym session. Just like your muscles, it takes some time.

Don't be fooled: your fear of clipping is still a fear of falling. Take many of those practice falls from the clipping stance.

Read Vertical Mind.

You just need to learn to relax and trust your abilities... If you think "oh crap I can't clip like this" you most certainly won't be able to, however, if you just go for it without hesitation, you'll most likely always get the clip and be able to move on...

One last thought, as long as you're high enough off the ground/ ledges to blow a clip and be fine then just go for it, the occasional blown clip is good for you as long as it's a clean fall, helps keep things fun.

Taking any fall where you might deck if your belayer is even a little distracted or happens to have a couple of extra feet of slack out is stupid. Usually that means the first couple of bolts and sometimes even up to the fourth if you fall while trying to clip.

You can grab the nylon jug or you can eventually join the "quien es mas macho" club at the hospital.

Christian wrote:Taking any fall where you might deck if your belayer is even a little distracted or happens to have a couple of extra feet of slack out is stupid. Usually that means the first couple of bolts and sometimes even up to the fourth if you fall while trying to clip. You can grab the nylon jug or you can eventually join the "quien es mas macho" club at the hospital.

I once botched the second clip, landed flat on the ground next my belayer... No hospital trip, no sprained ankles, I just got back on and tried again...

Lol, I recommend you keep doing that then, you're obviously indestructible.

Christian wrote:Lol, I recommend you keep doing that then, you're obviously indestructible.

Obviously... My opinion is that you can either get bold and progress, or get scared and stay the same.

Leif E wrote: Obviously... My opinion is that you can either get bold and progress, or get scared and stay the same.

Good luck w your strategy and binary, clichéd view of the world.

Some things are worth risking life and limb for (family, friends, house (maybe), etc)..

Sending random sport route when the risk is easily mitigated by grabbing a draw until you've figured out how to clip..not so much

Christian wrote: Good luck w your strategy and binary, clichéd view of the world. Some things are worth risking life and limb for (family, friends, house (maybe), etc).. Sending random sport route when the risk is easily mitigated by grabbing a draw until you've figured out how to clip..not so much

Hahaha if I'm still trying to work a route/ figure out the beta, I'll grab the dog bone, down climb, do whatever I can to figure out the moves, but when it comes to going for the red point, it's full commitment!

Thanks for all the feedback guys! I agree that it's a mental barrier, and am definitely trying to focus on my head game. I'll also take a much closer look at my clipping stances, and see if I can't put myself in some "sketchy" situations that are pretty safe, like going for the 5th or 6th bolt.

I don't climb particularly hard -- red pointing around 11d in the gym, so none of the clips should be very desperate if I do them right. Hopefully with some practice, I can get my head straight and start moving forward.

Sounds as if you are overgripping. I get that way and get over tired and then I can hold on only briefly with one hand, so clipping gets hard.
YMMV.

hold/stance permitting... instead of clipping over your head (aka as soon as you can reach it)... try doing a few extra moves and clipping at your waist... then there's no "blowing the clip" or taking extra time on one hand to pull up all the slack you need to clip overhead

It makes sense to practice clipping. I mean some drills. E.g., climb an easy route (about full grade below your flash level) and do a shake out in between all hand moves. Grab a handhold, find a stable position, shake out with one hand for a couple seconds (breathe!), grab the next handhold, repeat. It is a good warm up drill. Do it routinely every day you climb. In a couple months you'll develop a solid stance finding skill.

Another good idea is force yourself to clip on the go. A random route about one full grade below your flash level. Clipping sequence: grab a handhold, some footsteps, grab a rope, clip, grab the next handhold. Make a handmove and clip a draw at once. Not a "take a hand off a hold, grab the rope, clip, return the hand back to the same hold". Yet another good warm up drill. Do it routinely every day you climb. In a couple months you'll develop a solid clipping on the go without extra pumping upper body and forearms skill.

Another good idea is to practice focus. As usual a bit of cheating could be of a great help - when clipping concentrate on some binner/draw feature. Watch how the gate opens, read strength ratings engraving on the binner, visualise the precise place where your rope will be touching the binner, do everything to focus on a clip process fine details. Something like you do when committing to a hard move - you concentrate on the hold you're about to reach, you visualise how your index finger will touch the hold, how your middle finger will touch the hold, how your thumb will press, etc. Attention to fine details create a deep laser like focus. It makes everything simpler and smoother.

Ultimately if you can neither clip nor free solo it, pick another (easier) route.