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Edelweiss Rope shipped with "CORESHOT"

SDY · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10
Panda Express wrote: Also, if you discount "reviews on the internet so much", and these discussions are just noise to you, why are you participating in one right now?
Because you a hilarious

Panda Express wrote: If you have nothing to say, then you are nobody and barely worth the time to skim over your post.
Yet you read it, and took the time to write several angry paragraphs in response..... you seem bored.

Panda Express wrote: Most of these posts are worthless.
Except the negative ones that validate your opinion, right?

Panda Express wrote: For example, I actually choose to climb on the rope after I noticed the core. The use of my title was to intentionally draw out such posts and keep this thread bumped for a long time.
Lolz, good one. You chose a stupid title and then say, "I meant to do that guys! I meant to, no I meant to!"

hahaha.
Panda Express · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30
SDY wrote: Except the negative ones that validate your opinion, right?
No, just the ones from people that have experience with these ropes. These are 100% negative.

"Lolz"? "hahaha"? Your discussion belongs in a playground and prove my points well.
Tim Zander · · Breckenridge, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 30

can the mods please just delete this troll thread.

johnnyrig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 105

The whole thread belongs in a playground. You chose the thread title intentionally misrepresenting the condition of your rope, in order to draw responses.

Core shot implies physical damage to the rope sheath thus exposing the core, which most likely occurred while actually climbing.

The alarmist tone in which you present your case, the intentional misrepresentation seeking response, and your overly-defensive tone in subsequent posts lead me to a number of rational assumptions.

But that's ok, you're entitled to your opinion of me too. There's absolutely zero chance that you and I will ever climb together. You'd probably have an aneurysm if I showed up at the crag with my ebay cams and hexes.

Panda Express · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30
johnnyrig wrote:The whole thread belongs in a playground. You chose the thread title intentionally misrepresenting the condition of you're rope, in order to draw responses. Troll. Core shot implies physical damage to the rope sheath thus exposing the core, which most likely occurred while actually climbing. The alarmist tone in which you present you're case, the intentional misrepresentation seeking response, and you're overly-defensive tone in subsequent posts lead me to a number of rational assumptions about you, not many of which are positive. But that's ok, your entitled to you're opinion of me too. There's absolutely zero chance that you and I will ever climb together. You'd probably have an aneurysm if I showed up at the crag with my ebay cams and hexes. By chance are you a grammar natzi as well?
No, core shot does not mean damage to the core. I own ebay cams and hexes. My original post is factual, where was my "intentional misrepresentation"?

I don't think its defensive to point out posts like yours are a list of strung together lies.
johnnyrig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 105

"The use of my title was to intentionally draw out such posts and keep this thread bumped for a long time"

That's you.

Go back and read what I wrote. You even quoted it and still got it wrong. I didn't say anything about a damaged core. I said core shot implies damage to the rope thus exposing the core, usually while climbing. That's pretty much the standard definition of core shot, as others have repeatedly pointed out to you from the beginning, with pictures to illustrate the point.

Panda Express · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

You got me there. I misread what you wrote.

Phil Esra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 100

The title is a little misleading and hyperbolic, thus all the dipshit reactions. When I first clicked and looked at the pics, I thought, wow, this clown just doesn't know what a bicolor rope looks like, nor what a core shot is. The circles in the image look like you're drawing attention to the isolated black stitches in the color transition. Once a few replies accumulated that confirmed this view (that you didn't know what you were talking about), it just became easy and fun for the dipshits to pile on. I'd say this thread might be irreparably damaged. It has mostly become a venue in which dipshits seek to increase their status within the pool of dipshits.

To me, that first OP rope is on the very edge of what I'd find acceptable in a new rope. A sheath CAN move around on a core a lot (in my experience the sheath stretches in length relative to the core, which I guess would be accompanied by a tightening of the weave in the perpendicular axis?), so the idea of it settling into place doesn't seem incredibly far fetched to me. But if it hadn't "filled in" the gaps after a couple of raps or TRs, I'd want to take it back if it were easy to do.

That second rope, whoa, no way no how, no matter how cheap it was.

I've always vaguely perceived Edelweiss as a second-tier rope maker--this thread really hardens my opinion. Not sure how many different rope *manufacturers* there are out there (vs. brands), but whoever is making these isn't doing a good enough job. Last thing I want to do is comb every inch of a brand new rope, looking for small defects.

Panda Express · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

If you had a rope that looked like the one below, most people would assume it was a core shot. It has the same concerns and problems of a core shot rope. This isn't acceptable.

I apply my definition of core shot to both this rope and mine. We can keep making fun of my definition or we can make the community aware to these flaws. If we do both, I guess that works too.

johnnyrig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 105

I'll never have any validation around here. I don't climb hard, I don't post tick marks, I drink bitch beer, and I don't give a shit either.

Nobody should have to comb every inch of a rope looking for defects, as the manufacturer's quality control should take care of that themselves. Unfortunately, small defects do get overlooked from time to time. In one sense, good on the OP for finding it. In anther sense, seriously? Especially with a brand new rope, and at the splice, document it, then give it a few days use. That little tiny, itty bitty gap in the sheath would likely have smoothed out and disappeared. If not, then bug the manufacturer. Incidentally, good luck with the return.

Just try not to call your manufacturing defect a core shot, so we don't confuse the noobs. I wouldn't call the second rope there a core shot either. I'd call that a manufacturing defect as well, although in that second rope pictured above, it appears that the core managed to get interwoven with the sheath. Far more of a concern than the small gap in your original. Fair enough?

mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885

I actually don't think there's any air splicing going on here. I think air splicing only happen with a COLOR change not a Pattern Change. I've never actually noticed climbers differentiating between the two but I think the vast majority of ropes are really BI-PATTERN. Does anyone know of a True Bi-COLOR where the color changes completely? [Edit: Sterling looks to change at least one of the thread colors in it's BiColor ropes]

I'll add a data point. I went back and one of my 3 current Edelweiss ropes is actually Bi-Pattern aka ARC.

80m, 9.5mm BiPattern Energy (not UniCore).

I've had the rope ~2 years and it's seen perhaps 50 pitches of use (I mainly use it for LONG slingshot pitches). So by no means heavy use.

The thing looks VERY GOOD. Local Granite is quite rough, ala J-Tree or the Voo.

It took me a minute to even FIND the middle in the coil. (hence why I prefer black middle marks)

I had to look REALLY closely to find where the change is made. There are a few places where you can see an "overlap" strand is skipped. Playing with the change area I can certainly see how a sheath may need to "settle in".

Comparing my picture to the OP I'd say his is only slightly "worse" than mine. The MACRO pics of the sheath aren't really indicative of what it looks like "live". The 2nd sheath posting is certainly worse and I'd probably complain a bit on that one.

Again, all 3 of my Edelweiss ropes have and are great right now. YMMV

OP post is NOT a coreshot. A Coreshot is a type of DAMAGE done by external factors ala falling rock or sharp edge during fall. OP's rope is fine.

2nd posters sheath is a bit rough - I would have returned that one.

I'd really be curious to learn and SEE the process of changing a sheath weave.

Good Looking BiPattern "ARC" pattern change. Edelweiss Energy 9.5mm 80m Arc

Bi Pattern vs Bi Color

Patrick Mulligan · · Reno, NV · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 995
Panda Express wrote: No, just the ones from people that have experience with these ropes. These are 100% negative. "Lolz"? "hahaha"? Your discussion belongs in a playground and prove my points well.
OK - I own said rope. 70M bicolor orange energy arc everydry. I have climb with a partner who owns this rope in 80M. Both have seen significant use over 3 seasons including being broken in during a 3 week trip to Kalymnos and Turkey. Both ropes are going strong. I tend not to take long falls much so I've not cut my rope and my buddy has cut 5 meters from both ends of his rope and its still going strong.

I returned a Mammut rope (only other brand I use) about two years ago after climbing on it once and there being a crazy amount of sheath wear. The store took the rope back no questions asked (returned 72 hours after purchasing) because of the way it had worn and gave me a brand new rope which has performed flawlessly...

It seems that everyone has at least one brand upon which they love to hate and those that can do no wrong..
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

So I took this condom out of the package, noticed a defect, used it 50 times anyway, then got on the Internet and misused terms, misunderstood definition common in boinking and complained a whole lot. I notified the manufacturer. Now I have 12 kids.

Jon Guczek · · Eureka, CA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 55

So I'd like to add to this so I can help with a compilation of why edelwiss is putting out crap for products. Below is a picture of my 70m curve (that i got on sale for cheap go figure) after about 6 climbing days. Yes it's taken some falls and yes it's been on some sharp lime stone but I still think the fact that core can be seen shows obscenely poor quality. I usually don't post in forums but I see this as a safety issue. I'm not exactly making a ton of money right now so buying this was a bit of an investment and here I am realizing I'll need a new one already. So I'll put this out as a PSA these ropes are a joke. My Sterling lasted forever and still might have life but has too much use to be a primary lead line. I certainly will be contacting the company but I felt as though it was important to contribute to the already long list of people on MP posting about problems with Edelwiss ropes. Also the retailers putting these on sale for very cheap are equally if not more responsible. I find it very concerning that these ropes got cheap when complaints coming up. Yes all the ones have resulted in wear and we as climbers are the ones ultimately responsible for inspecting our gear but there's always the chance that something could go horribly wrong for someone as a result of this poor quality so I feel responsible for sharing this information.

(Rant over)

Curve 70 dry

(Update)

Just contacted the retailer I got it from and there being supercool about a return a looking into this more.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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