Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
FA: | Nate Ball, Emma Huang, Jeff Lin (01/2015) |
Page Views: | 1,048 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Nate Ball on Jan 11, 2015 |
Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure
Details
Since 2016, peregrine falcons have made the Grand Auditorium their breeding ground. A voluntary closure is in place from Feb. 1st - June 30, 2023. This is not a legal closure, but a suggested one for respect of the birds. Since the viewshed of this area is wide open, they are easily disturbed by people approaching, especially from above. Do not take the Grand Auditorium trail descent, and please keep a conservative distance from below.
tocc-climbing.org/
tocc-climbing.org/
Description
If climbed following the first pitch of Jasmine Beauty, this makes the best and longest moderate trad climb at Long Dong.
From the JB ledge, take the hand crack straight up the face. Expect to spend more time jamming on this route than any other route in the country. The crack thins as you layback a juggy flake into a slight overhang. This is the crux - sick finger/hand locks. Shake out at a concave section before pulling through the final broken section. Beware of the big flake to your left; the chunky rock above aint too bad. Climb delicately over the grassy ledges and belay at a nice hand crack just below the topout. There is not a single bolt on this route... as it should be.
The name in Mandarin: shuàiqì èmó
From the JB ledge, take the hand crack straight up the face. Expect to spend more time jamming on this route than any other route in the country. The crack thins as you layback a juggy flake into a slight overhang. This is the crux - sick finger/hand locks. Shake out at a concave section before pulling through the final broken section. Beware of the big flake to your left; the chunky rock above aint too bad. Climb delicately over the grassy ledges and belay at a nice hand crack just below the topout. There is not a single bolt on this route... as it should be.
The name in Mandarin: shuàiqì èmó
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