Totem cams not the alien version

I just want to share my opinion on the unique totem cams. Every time I place one I say the same thing to myself " I love these cams". The shape of the cam love is long. They say you can place it in a flaring crack. Also you can place two lobes only for aid climbing. But what I like is how they always seem to sit so well. Every placement seems bomber unscientific but that's how I feel

I've been interested in these for a while, but I've yet to see any US retailers carry them. Where can I find these stateside?

I ordered them online

T Howes wrote:I've been interested in these for a while, but I've yet to see any US retailers carry them. Where can I find these stateside?

I'm pretty sure Totem imports to a warehouse in Oregon. Next Adventure in PDX stock Totem as well as Back Country Gear in Eugene.

You can buy at REI, gearcoop.com/, climbcoop.com/, backcountrygear.com/totem-c… (probably among others).
I bought a set and have been liking them so far. Very confidence inspiring to place, feel less prone to walking. Though perhaps a little more difficult to clean quickly as the trigger is closer to the head (meaning you needs to reach deeper into the crack to retrieve).

I've had a set of Totems for about a year now and they are far and away my favorite cams. The way they load the cams directly, combined with their unmatched flexibility makes them more stable in weird placements than any other cam. If I've gotta place a blind piece in a hurry, I definitely want it to be a totem. No durability issues in mine yet, and I expect them to hold up well in the future.

Rock and snow in new paltz has them and I think they ship free over 50

When i first got mine I was concerned that the load cables wouldn't last. 5 years later and they still look perfect.

I've seen them at Pagan Mountaineering in Moab, and I think I saw them at Mountainworks in Provo

When I last visited Rock and Snow they had all sizes available.
They also have a price match guarantee. You won't overpay and you support a great shop.

I am very interested in these as well. I am traveling to Europe in a month and was wondering if anyone knows for sure if they are readily available in the UK and if they are much cheaper? I expect spain would be better with the euro being so weak and that being the country of origin but I will be stuck in the UK at least initially.

Thanks!

I've had the full set for about 2 years now. I agree with everyone else, these are by far my favorite cams. They don't walk, they're are ridiculously flexible, and they almost perfectly match the size range and colors of the C4's and Dragons (this pleases my OCD). Totem's marketing claims are 100% backed up in practice. The only thing that you'll regret about buying them is why you didn't do it sooner.

Do people usually use them for free climbing? I hear more about them as an aid piece. How well do they rack up? I am going to pick up a set of the basics and looking at the non-alien version to supplement the rack and replace my helium friends.

Im a little bummed on the helium friends. Like how they fit between BD C4s but often when I place them one lobe will flip up and they arent very durable. They look like crap compared to my C4s.

Thanks

totem cams are great but they arent perfect ...

they have 2 "disadvantages" ...

- they arent passively rated so unlike a camalot or dragon, they arent as good to work into those absolutely funky placements that are both passive and active ... occasionally youll find an internally flaring crack/pod around here that would take bomber hexes (which no one carries) or a camalot/dragon

- for folks in canada (and north america) ... if you need to repair the wires/slings on yr totems youll need to ship em back to espana ... and itll cost you a pretty penny ... many of the more common cams are self maintainable or someone local/US can fix em up for cheap

that said they make a great set of doubles for camalot/dragons ... youll still need other cams for a full range if nutting else

as to free climbing, once you get used to them they work just fine

;)

Josh Allred wrote:Do people usually use them for free climbing? I hear more about them as an aid piece. How well do they rack up? I am going to pick up a set of the basics and looking at the non-alien version to supplement the rack and replace my helium friends. Im a little bummed on the helium friends. Like how they fit between BD C4s but often when I place them one lobe will flip up and they arent very durable. They look like crap compared to my C4s. Thanks

I have and use the two smallest sizes for free climbing. The unique cam lobe shape and narrow head width is a big advantage in the small sizes. I dont see a big advantage in the larger sizes and they do sit really weird on the harness. Great piece, but not revolutionary.

Josh Allred wrote:Do people usually use them for free climbing? I hear more about them as an aid piece. How well do they rack up? I am going to pick up a set of the basics and looking at the non-alien version to supplement the rack and replace my helium friends. Im a little bummed on the helium friends. Like how they fit between BD C4s but often when I place them one lobe will flip up and they arent very durable. They look like crap compared to my C4s. Thanks

I have and use the two smallest sizes for free climbing. The unique cam lobe shape and narrow head width is a big advantage in the small sizes. I dont see a big advantage in the larger sizes and they do sit really weird on the harness. Great piece, but not revolutionary.

I have one trip on the blue ~.3, really like how it places, going to buy more.

One question: the trigger cables run over the lobe cables when the trigger is retracted, rubbing and making scratching noise. Seems like this will eventually fray the lobe cables? I assume every totem must do this.

I also bet you could get someone like wired bliss to resling them.

I own all sizes but the red one and use them for free climbing all the time. I have a set of Dragons one set of Totems. They sit very well and don't walk as much as other cams would. So far I have only used them in the Gunks and in Eldo but I really dig them. The bulk on the harness never bothered me. They are great in flares and pods.