Rumney in August

Hey folks,

So, I've decided. I'm coming to Rumney. I've been living in Asia for a couple of years and was thinking of staying this summer and revisiting China. Until I saw my Mom become visibly upset. DAMNIT, I thought, I should come home this Summer.

So, not much climbing in NJ and the Gunks is too expensive to camp at long term so I thought I'd make a trip to Rumney in August. If all goes to plan I'll be camping/climbing there 14-20 days. I've never been and was hoping to get a few questions answered. And I have a lot.

Do the local camping grounds still charge $10/pp per night? I was reading that's the special they give to climbers. How long in advanced should I reserve? And do any of the areas charge a park entrance fee?

Also, how friendly is Rumney to solo climbers? Maybe weekends would be easier but would I be able to find a regular (competent) climbing partner or group to climb with during the week in the middle of August? Trad partners? Any place you'd recommend hanging out to find a partner?

Of course, how's the trad? And what is the standard rack for Rumney/Cathedral Ledge? Could I get away with nuts, hexes, and a set of cams?

Thanks so much for the info. From everything I've been reading I can tell that Rumney's local climbers are great people.

Alex

There's a couple different options for camping. The house right across the street is opening back up again for climbers only for 10$ per night. That's nice because you won't ever need to drive to the cliffs. There's also mountain pines which is the same price and has actual sites with water spigots and a bathroom with a shower. Parking is 3$ a day or 5$ for the week. That's at rumney and cathedral and all national forest pay sites. You can get a weekly pass at the common cafe right in town. You can tackle cathedral with a basic rack, it just depends on how often you like to place pro, as with every trad climb. The trad in rumney kind of sucks. There's not much of it, but there are some nice lines that won't hve lines during the busy summer days. Call ahead a few weeks for a site at mountain pines but you can probably just show up at the house across the street. Shoot me a message when you head up this way and I'll show you around. I work during the day but try to get out when the weathers nice after work until dark.

Greg Pouliot wrote: Parking is 3$ a day or 5$ for the week. That's at rumney and cathedral and all national forest pay sites.

Cathedral is not on National Forest land. State Park. No parking fee

I would post here a week before you expect to be in Rumney and line up some partners then.

Bring a lot of draws, some of the routes are longish.

There's a good (Ward?) guide if you can find a copy.

There's bouldering so perhaps instead of free soloing that would be an option?

Not a lot of trad as Greg explained. Standard rack is all you would need. There's some much better trad up the road at Cathedral and Whitehorse. Might want doubles for some of those routes.

He's been living in Aisa so it might be worth mentioning that "up the road" to Cathedral and Whitehorse is over an hour's drive--and not exactly 'up' the same road---though Cannon and Echo do fit that description.

Unless you are very much into working projects, I'd think 2-3 weeks in Rumney might get a bit "old". I'd suggest splitting your time between the areas. Cheap camping is a bit of a problem around North Conway (Cathedral/Whitehorse)but maybe you could find a 'secret place' to spend your nights or possibly find a local who'll let you crash at their place. Anyway the climbing there is worth it and the granite trad is a good balance to the Rumney schist.

Eric Engberg wrote: Cathedral is not on National Forest land. State Park. No parking fee

Fair enough. I've only been there once so I forgot there's no fee.

Guys,

Thanks a lot for the info. I'll definitely be reposting for partners closer to August.

Greg, "the house" sounds great. You say it's across the street. I'm guessing it's on Buffalo Rd? I assume showers included? Kitchen? And I'll definitely message you around that time.

Alan, I do like projecting but I can understand a place getting old after too long. Thing is I'm taking a bus into Plymouth and I won't have a car. I'll be doing my best to visit other areas (Cannon Cliff looks good) but I figured if I need to set up in one place and meet partners then Rumney is it. My next mission will be to find camping/cheap lodging around Cathedral cliffs.

Thanks all. See you at the crag.

Alex

Alexander Wisz wrote:Guys, Thanks a lot for the info. I'll definitely be reposting for partners closer to August. Greg, "the house" sounds great. You say it's across the street. I'm guessing it's on Buffalo Rd? I assume showers included? Kitchen? And I'll definitely message you around that time. Alan, I do like projecting but I can understand a place getting old after too long. Thing is I'm taking a bus into Plymouth and I won't have a car. I'll be doing my best to visit other areas (Cannon Cliff looks good) but I figured if I need to set up in one place and meet partners then Rumney is it. My next mission will be to find camping/cheap lodging around Cathedral cliffs. Thanks all. See you at the crag. Alex

Rumney never gets old!

By "house across the street", Mr. Camara's house (and barn) is there, but the camping is in a nice field with the Baker river running by. It is very basic, with some porto potties, no showers. In August the river will be warm and I find that no matter how dirty, three dives off the rock at the swimming hole just across the road from the crags and a little swimming around will get you squeaky clean.

The Common Cafe is right in the center of the village which is an easy walk (maybe half a mile). They have good breakfasts, free WiFi and a pub upstairs at night. They have rooms for climbers ($25?), probably a good deal if you can swing it. (edit - no rooms anymore)

I like the Baker River Campground when I stay at a pay site with showers etc. It is a couple miles on the other side of the village center, so you would probably want to catch a ride, but if the weather is decent there are usually lots of climbers there.

You will need to catch rides into Plymouth for groceries and other supplies. which shouldn't be hard if you are friendly. It is about 15 min drive to the grocery, another 5 to the center of town, a small college town with a good library etc. ( there is also a small library right in Rumney, though I have never been in it so don't know the hours or facilities.)

Mark, I saw a posting on here, I think, a week or so ago, that the Common Cafe is no longer renting rooms. Bummer if accurate as it was a great place to stay.

Thanks Alan. That is a bummer. I'll try to confirm this weekend.

Edit - Confirmed, no rooms at the Common Cafe anymore.

Standard rack for North Conway would be BD .3-3 or equalivant and a set of stoppers. Should get you up anything.

Hit me up when you have dates - I was thinking of rolling up for a week or two at some point in August. I have the whole month off and will go to CO/Utah for part of it but am definitely spending time in Rumney

either PM or text 3178748601

Greg Pouliot wrote: Shoot me a message when you head up this way and I'll show you around. I work during the day but try to get out when the weathers nice after work until dark.

Greg, you're a gentleman. I'll also second his offer, I live very close and can definitely get out with you a couple days. Also I'm a good resource about the trad in Rumney if you're interested (It's mostly dirty obscure lines that are of questionable quality, still wicked fun). There are a lot of locals and travelers that you can climb with, and a bunch of sub-5.5 climbs that are great to actually solo. As far as competent partners, the weekdays are probably better for finding a competent partner as the weekends tend to bring hordes of people (which brings some people that do not know what they're doing).

Taking a bus to Plymouth is a pretty tall order, but if you're going to camp for a couple weeks it may not be the worst experience ever.
Good luck, shoot me a message for climbing times when you get closer to coming.

I love rumney, if you've re need a partner, I have a weekday and weekends off

Thanks to you all for the info and invitations. I'm getting really excited putting together a list of climbs for Rumney and Cathedral (have my eye on Diedre at Cathedral). When the time comes you can be sure to hear from me again.

Alex

cannon is closer to rumny than cathedral.

If you are only going to be at cathedral/ whitehorse for a day or two you should have a look at.
Recombeast finishing on the last pitch of The prow.
Bombardment to Book Of Solemity
Inferno*
Atlantis*
Lost Soles*
Sea of Holes*
Sleeping Beauty
* Avoid if its too hot and sunny.
A short list for cannon
WG
Moby
vertigo
Direct direct
Duet Direct

Sounds good dude. I'll let you know how things work out on my end

Nick Goldsmith wrote:If you are only going to be at cathedral/ whitehorse for a day or two you should have a look at. Recombeast finishing on the last pitch of The prow. Bombardment to Book Of Solemity Inferno* Atlantis* Lost Soles* Sea of Holes* Sleeping Beauty * Avoid if its too hot and sunny. A short list for cannon WG Moby vertigo Direct direct Duet Direct

Nice list, Nick. And thanks for the heat beta. Cannon Cliff is closer so my guess is that it'll be easier to find a partner in Rumney for that. But looking at Recompense/Beast variation, I'd walk to Cathedral.

recombeast is pretty darn special. you top out on a little ledge just below the top that has a bunch of short not so special finishes. the 5 star finish is to walk climbers right a few feet and down climb a blocky corner and spruce tree then make a spread eagle move out right to get into the 10a finger crack that is the last pitch of the Prow. well protected, not bad to lead or follow, slightly soft for the grade and spectaculer finish right at the chain link fence of the tourist overlook.