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Conditions Farley

Original Post
Kristian Starheim · · StÃ¥rheim · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 676

Anyone know how conditions are at Farley these days?

javd von dauber · · East Brookfield MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 91

Horrible, don't go.
J/k

Alissa Doherty · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 60

Conditions are great at Farley. Unfortunately, it has been quite crowded on weekends so I'd consider getting there early or finding an alternative until a little later in the season if possible. I imagine Farley is fine for weekday climbing.

javd von dauber · · East Brookfield MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 91

That is not entirely true....
Anything past zen garden is still closed for the Falcons and as of Sunday, many of the upper tier cracks were still wet. The main areas are fine.

With that being said, everyone is condensed there.

I ended up packing up and leaving because of the distraction of unleashed dogs playing like it was a dog park and their owners drinking alcohol while climbing and belaying. I didn't want to witness a mishap.

Alissa Doherty · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 60

I found the cracks to be fine with just a little dampness.*

Anyway, I know the landowners are sensitive to overcrowding and it seemed particularly bad the past two weekends. Hopefully climbers who are torn between two crags might consider somewhere other than Farley to keep the crowds down :)

  • edited to remove anything that could be construed as specific route beta!
JD1984 · · Leominster, MA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 866

Based on the report by javd it dosent sound like things are getting any better at Farley. It would be a shame to see access restricted because people can't follow basic common sense guidelines for respecting the landowner's wishes. Maybe a little intervention at the climbing gyms would help alleviate the overcrowding? Mormon Hollow and Crow Hill are excellent crags where climbers could go to ease the crowds at Farley.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

Mormon was also very crowded Sunday---and adequate parking there is a problem as well. Rose Ledge is just around the corner from Farley, has decent parking and can absorb alot of climbers. Yes, it is trad or top rope, not sport but the climbs are excellent. So consider this as another alternative to Farley either as your initial plan or if you arrive and find the Farley lots full.

javd von dauber · · East Brookfield MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 91

Like Farley, there's a lot more to Rose Ledge than the crowds seem to flock to. I highly recommend Al's guidebook to Rose Ledge.
You can get it at crg in Hadley and I think wmcc still sells it.

Rosalieva · · southshore MA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 5

I need a climber for today at Farley anyone available?

Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

I was up at Rumney a couple of weeks ago and it was dog city. Kind of hard to concentrate on leading a climb when there are dogs fighting on the ground below. I have nothing against dogs at all, but seriously, don't bring them and leave them unattended and unleashed and clean up after them!!

Mike Collins · · Northampton, MA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

people need to not be so lazy and crowd the main area. Hike a little and find the other awesome crags!

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295
Mike Collins wrote:people need to not be so lazy and crowd the main area. Hike a little and find the other awesome crags!
Agreed Mike, I live 10 minutes away and there are always routes that you can get on if you don't mind walking and exploring.

The real problem is the parking. I have seen cars at the bridge overflow lined almost all the way down to the railroad tracks. The people who live in the first house to the right own the overflow parking, and are nice people, but there is a limit to what they will tolerate.

I don't have any good answers. Until the next glacier, they aren't making any more cliffs, but the rock gyms sure are making a hell of a lot of new climbers.
Mike Collins · · Northampton, MA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

does any one know what is up with the 8 car lot? I went this past Saturday and there was caution tape around it. It did look very muddy past the caution tape and there was definitely room to park in front of the tape but I wasn't willing to risk parking there if someone wanted no cars there. I just didn't know what the deal was so we didn't park there.

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295
Mike Collins wrote:does any one know what is up with the 8 car lot? I went this past Saturday and there was caution tape around it. It did look very muddy past the caution tape and there was definitely room to park in front of the tape but I wasn't willing to risk parking there if someone wanted no cars there. I just didn't know what the deal was so we didn't park there.
I talked to the man who owns the lot and he said he puts up the tape every spring to keep cars from rutting up the ground. It is still fine to park there so long as you can get COMPLETELY off the pavement (think about a fire truck having to make that turn).
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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