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Hueco Tanks in June

Original Post
Socotra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 10

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a partner to climb with in Hueco this June. I know that the earlier you reserve the better. I was thinking of camping (you can't beat the price for tents in the campground). Hueco bouldering is my dream, even though I've only been climbing for a year. I climb up to V5, but I realize that the grading is more difficult in Hueco, still psyched though! Let me know and we can coordinate. Just FYI, I'm free (for the first time in my life) for 2-3 months from June until the end of August, so if you want to sport climb or boulder somewhere else, I'm also open to that idea.

Really hoping I find a chill partner.

Best from NYC!

Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330

You. Will. Fry.

Seriously though, Hueco is awesome but if you want to enjoy it I would go when the temps were at least somewhat tolerable. I went towards the end of May once and it was brutally hot.

Socotra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 10

I don't doubt it. Unfortunately, I only have June-August and then I start school. After that I'm not sure when i'll have the opportunity to go to Hueco, and bouldering there is my dream. The rock and the environment looks so beautiful, I'm willing to fry for it. Luckily I've lived in really hot climates before, so hopefully that will help. Thanks for the warning!

Georgehh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

There are a ton of places you can go where the environment and rock is beautiful, and the weather will be comfortable... Why are you so set on the Tanks? I am certain you will regret it, and have an impossible time finding a partner. If you're from NY, seems like an awfully long way to travel for horrible climbing conditions. Why not check out the Buttermilks, or some other area that won't be miserable?

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Don't listen to these A/C lovin gym climbers. If you really are set on getting to Hueco you will love it. I went there in January and it was pretty d*** cold. We would wake up in the tent and everything was covered in ice. It was always cold, so cold that we never ever changed our clothes and we huddled around the grill with our hands to stay warm. But you know what? We had so much fun. Hueco is something I will never forget. I still talk about that trip to anyone who will listen. Yeah, your going to be hot sometimes, but I promise you will have a blast.

Side note, the grades are hard if your not used to the rock. Work on your crimp strength and overhangs for sure.

Georgehh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0
grog m wrote:Don't listen to these A/C lovin gym climbers. If you really are set on getting to Hueco you will love it. I went there in January and it was pretty d*** cold.
Uhhh... what? January is the start of peak season at the Tanks. Your logic is, "I went in peak season and had fun, therefore you can go when its scorching hot and it'll also be fun?" Cold is good for climbing....Cold is when people attempt their hardest redpoints.

Gym climbers, ha. Choosing your destination intelligently now means you're a gym climber... gotta love MP.
BJB · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 195

You will not have a good time in Hueco in June.

I have climbed a lot of things in the wrong season. I still would not go to Hueco in June.

James Crump · · Canyon Lake, TX · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200

As someone who in years past climbed Hueco year round, there is a lot of ignorance about summer Hueco climbing. Yes it is hot! During the day and out in the sun. But it is a desert dry heat.

You just need to adjust your day. We would get up early, and play run from the sun. So much of Huecos goodies are in caves, north-facing, etc. We would get 3-5 hours in starting really early then we would find a cool cave, drink some vino, take a siesta, and then run for the east facing stuff, East Spur, etc. We would climb until the sun went down.

Low humidity means shady climbing is good.

Of course back in my day, we had no opressive rules and used mountain bikes to run from the sun. Of course now things like that are illegal.

And of course I grew up in Texas and had heat tollerance.

Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330

If you're dead set on going Marwan, I guess bring lots of batteries for your headlamp and boulder before the sun comes up and at night. Not sure how that works with the regulated/guided access now.
So you have Grog who's been there in January and former local Mr. Crump (when you live there you'll climb year 'round because you don't have a choice) saying go for it. Maybe go for a couple weeks at the start of your trip and have a backup plan for some further north, higher altitude destinations later on.
Good luck with whatever you decide.

Socotra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 10

wow so many responses! Thank you all! I really do appreciate it.

A few notes, I actually grew up in a desert climate so i'm use to the heat. That doesn't mean I'm not taking your comments into consideration. As i mentioned, i have a few months before I start school so Hueco will not be my only destination. I plan on climbing in much better conditions all over the country. I'm hoping on visiting a lot of areas, but Hueco is truly a must for me. You have to understand, if I don't go this summer I won't have the chance for at least 3 years. I want to take advantage while I can, despite conditions. I realize it's not ideal but its the reality I'm facing.

BTW, I can postpone the trip to the first weeks of August. Do you think the heat maybe a bit better then? From what I've read online, it won't be a big difference.

Georgehh, I do plan on visiting the Buttermilks :) It is beautiful, but i'm going to admit that the high boulder problems do frighten me a bit. Still it's a destination that is a must go, like Hueco. I just hope I can find a partner for a spotter.

grog m, thanks for the encouragement! Luckily for me I freaking love overhangs and climbing crimpers. Still I'll make sure I work on them even more. BTW, I fully admit that I haven't climbed outdoors very much (maybe 7 times total), and this summer will be my opportunity to really get out there. So maybe I am a bit of an A/C gym climber (note I intentional left out the word loving cause i prefer the heat :) )

James Crump, your tips rock! I'm copying and pasting them to my phone. I think the siesta sounds pretty freaking awesome!

Glen Schüler, I hope I can climb when its dark but I'll have to wait and see. I'll call and inquire. Thanks for for the wishes!

Again thanks a lot to all of you! This sort of concern and willingness to give advice is what makes the climbing community...A COMMUNITY

shotgunnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

The buttermilks will be hot as balls too. In Hueco August will be no better than July. Forget the headlamp there too, you can only boulder while the park is open during the day. Better advice would be to bring gallons upon gallons of water and a headband to wet and wear around your head. You keep saying you are heat tolerant, hope that works out for you.

Oh yeah yer gonna die!

Nathan Self · · Louisiana · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 90

I've been to Hueco many times in the heat and always had a blast. Yes, it'll be hot. You'll get used to it.

City of Rocks State Park in New Mexico is a decent stop if you're headed west from Hueco..

Socotra · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 10

I just looked into City of Rocks State Park in New Mexico, and it looks really cool! I love the fact that there is a lot of potential, and the fact that there isn't much tick marks on the boulders. Great suggestion! I think I can drop by.

In any case, I will definitely post pictures and comment on this thread or another, about the trip.

Doug Meneke · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

Bump to Crump!

Frank Stein · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

I went to school in Las Cruces, and we used to go to Hueco in the summer pretty often. It will be really hot, but as long as you chase shade you should be okay. I would not go to Hueco in the summer if I had a choice to go elsewhere however.

James Crump · · Canyon Lake, TX · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200
Doug Meneke wrote:Bump to Crump!
Thanks for the bump. I miss those days at Hueco. Some photos out of this where captured during summers. Bring lots of water and shade is your friend!

Cheers!

https://vimeo.com/42050469
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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