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Upper Exum-How much time to complete?

Original Post
Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50

I climbed this 20 years ago & am planning to do it again this summer. We will hike to the Lower Saddle day 1 and summit/descend to Lupine Meadows on day 2.

We are reasonably fit bit and travel at average speeds. Will simulclimb easier parts and rope up for harder sections.
I remember it being pretty easy to climb fast last time but don't remember how long it took.

What is a typical time Lupine to Lower saddle? How about Lower saddle to summit to Lupine trailhead again?

My goal is to do the Upper Exum quickly but not trying to run up and down it.
Just wondering how long iit has taken other climbers recently. Thanks.

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

Jim, it took us about 5 hours Lupine to Lower Saddle (3am to 8am). We were slow on the Upper Exum since we belayed everything, but I think we summitted around 1pm, no later than 2. We were back at Lupine about 8pm without hurrying.

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50
flynn wrote:Jim, it took us about 5 hours Lupine to Lower Saddle (3am to 8am). We were slow on the Upper Exum since we belayed everything, but I think we summitted around 1pm, no later than 2. We were back at Lupine about 8pm without hurrying.
Thanks.

I was thinking about 6 hours Lupine to LS (with heavy packs) and 10-12 hours to summit and get back to trailhead.
Obviously depends on conditions and how many slow groups we encounter on route but I think we can do it easily in that (hopefully a bit less.

Did it pretty fast last time but I'm 20 yrs older now, so plan on setting a moderate pace
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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