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> 2 - Bear Canyon
> Chimney Rock
Single Lens Reflex
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 58
votes
Routes in Chimney Rock
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8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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[Redacted] T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Centerfire T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Icharus S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Stripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Steve Grossman, Rich Thompson 1977 |
| Page Views: | 6,511 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Nov 27, 2003 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Wild route! Sustained. Walking right from George's Buttress you pass Mistaken Identity, Stoner's Boner, and then a large rectangular block against the base. Centerpiece climbs the obvious vertical crack system that starts from the right side of this block. A little further is a prominent left facing left leaning corner that starts a ways off the ground. The standard start goes up right then underclingd left and then traverses further left to reach the base of the corner. This is a bit runout, but not too hard. This also leads to rope drag. You might want to back clean the first few pieces after getting good gear in the corner. The direct start is up a thin crack in a slab. Gear looks good but fiddly. I did the standard start.
The corner is awkward and strenuous, but with good gear. Laybacks, jams and stems get you to the top. This was the physical crux for me. Stem right, and you're finally in balance. Step around to the right and climb a fun slab with mostly good footholds and great gear in a right angling crack. There is a runout bit near the top of this slab, not because there is no gear, but because it's hard to stop. Step left at the top of this section to a ledge system. The two chopped bolts will be at head level. You could place gear here and traveser way left on the ledge system (I almost did), but instead continue up the thin crack with funky gear (good at the bottom, shallow TCU, brass nut higher up). At the top I couldn't figure out what to do. It was windy, cold, and I was getting a bit gripped. Downclimbed 3 times, and finally decided to step left to some decent knobs and make a long reach to a good hold. It wasn't that hard (5.8?), but it was the head crux for me.
The belay on the large ledge is funky. You can get a couple of small cams directly above. I hiked left about 20-30 feet and placed a couple of large cams, then hiked back and belayed above the final moves. To get off, traverse left around an exposed corner to easy ground, then scramble down and climber's left to the base of George's Buttress.
The corner is awkward and strenuous, but with good gear. Laybacks, jams and stems get you to the top. This was the physical crux for me. Stem right, and you're finally in balance. Step around to the right and climb a fun slab with mostly good footholds and great gear in a right angling crack. There is a runout bit near the top of this slab, not because there is no gear, but because it's hard to stop. Step left at the top of this section to a ledge system. The two chopped bolts will be at head level. You could place gear here and traveser way left on the ledge system (I almost did), but instead continue up the thin crack with funky gear (good at the bottom, shallow TCU, brass nut higher up). At the top I couldn't figure out what to do. It was windy, cold, and I was getting a bit gripped. Downclimbed 3 times, and finally decided to step left to some decent knobs and make a long reach to a good hold. It wasn't that hard (5.8?), but it was the head crux for me.
The belay on the large ledge is funky. You can get a couple of small cams directly above. I hiked left about 20-30 feet and placed a couple of large cams, then hiked back and belayed above the final moves. To get off, traverse left around an exposed corner to easy ground, then scramble down and climber's left to the base of George's Buttress.
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