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5.12+ The monument in Ontario?

Original Post
Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

Has anyone on MP got any info on this? The page for it is very vague and most contributions were by those not in the Ontario/ regional area. I'm planning on making this my summer project once it dries up but I don't want to make the drive without as much beta as possible.

1-What's the approach/ parking like?
2-Is the area dog friendly?
3-Are there any warm ups near by?
4-Any free camping near by?
5-When does it usually dry up?

Any info would be greatly appreciated. I posted this in the general climbing section rather than regional due to the scant info.
Thanks -Dono

johnthethird · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5

post up on ontarioclimbing.com....youll likely yield more feedback

I know theres at least one guy on there who's sent and a few others who have been on it

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

Thanks JohnIII
It seems seldom done and I'm not familiar with the region. Stoked to try this

Yotsuba · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 75

Hey man,

I'll be there myself later in the summer if you want to work on it.

1. Approach is off Forty Hills Rd, where there's parking for the Bruce Trail. Make sure not to park Whipporwill Rd. You'll want to walk down that road and then make a right at the very end along the cottage fence. Please be mindful of your noise when you walk down this road. The only reason we still have access is because the cottagers tolerate us.

2. Not too shabby for dogs. It's a lot of talus navigation though.

3. There's warm-ups on the far left-side of the cliffs. And by warm-ups I mean they start at 5.11 (and one chossy 5.8).

4. Not really

5. Late August about.

Cheers!

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

Yots- thanks a bunch man. I'm so stoked to give this my all. That's about all the info I need. You give me a heads up when you start working it ya? 801-884-6397 I'll try and get my schedule open. Time to start levers and sit ups. I'll also be very respectful of the area. Thanks again. -Dono

beccs · · Ontario Canada · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 200

DoNstamos, do you have the Ontario sport climbing guidebook? It will give you details on the approach and your warm up possibilities on the B-Movie and the Hippie Wall.

The route description on this site for the route was put up by my husband, who did send the route quite a few years ago. It is accurate. If you're lucky he will pipe up if you post on OntarioClimbing.com (though he hasn't been posting ton lately).

I have heard of a few people trying to get on it in the last few years, but in general it's not a route that many people try. Hard to say if the grade of the route is accurate. True, there haven't been many sends but Ontario also isn't a strong population of crack climbers either.

It takes a while for this route to become dry and will require you to aid out and do a good cleaning. You will likely have to do at least a quick cleaning after that too. Typically things properly dry out by the start of August, but the exact date will really depend on the year.

In terms of free camping there is a designated Bruce Trail camp site down the beach further than the Monument. I have never camped there because it's a decently long walk to haul all your stuff in. Your best bet is the Municipal Campground at Lion's Head or White Bluff Campground along the water before Whippoorwill road.

From what I recall the gear out the roof goes: new #4, old #4, #3, #2, #1, Oranage Metolious. Bring at least twice this for aiding out. I forget what you need for the initial crack.

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

Mrs. Beccs. Thank you so much. Stoke is high. I'm not concerned about the grade cause this line calls to me!! Seems like it may be drying up right about the time the red is hot, muggy, and miserable. I don't have much to train on other than expansion joints in parking garages. Your husband must be a BEAST! Nothing larger than a # 4 though? Perfect!

beccs · · Ontario Canada · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 200
DoNstamos wrote:Mrs. Beccs. Thank you so much. Stoke is high. I'm not concerned about the grade cause this line calls to me!! Seems like it may be drying up right about the time the red is hot, muggy, and miserable. I don't have much to train on other than expansion joints in parking garages. Your husband must be a BEAST! Nothing larger than a # 4 though? Perfect!
Where are you coming from to work on the route? Michigan or do you live in Ontario?

It's a super impressive and inspiring line. I know a guy who was working on it last year, so you may get lucky and have him back on it keeping it clean for you. :P
Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

I'm in metro Detroit. So it's about equal distance to the rrg.... Lot of inspiring lines there too but... The monument just looks like I need to give it a solid effort before I relocate. There's always motivation in seeing others trying the same line. I may start sussing it out by early July. Usually not climbing on weekends though so I'll just be a weekday warrior. You will see a Subaru with Utah plates and a super cute dog carrying a French press up that way in just a few months.

beccs · · Ontario Canada · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 200
DoNstamos wrote:I'm in metro Detroit. So it's about equal distance to the rrg.... Lot of inspiring lines there too but... The monument just looks like I need to give it a solid effort before I relocate. There's always motivation in seeing others trying the same line. I may start sussing it out by early July. Usually not climbing on weekends though so I'll just be a weekday warrior. You will see a Subaru with Utah plates and a super cute dog carrying a French press up that way in just a few months.
I'm a weekend warrior, but I may have time for more mid week climbing as the summer goes on (hopefully). If I see you out there I'll make sure to say hello!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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