Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: P1: Unknown. P2 & 3: Bryan Bird & Joe French
Page Views: 3,167 total · 26/month
Shared By: Gargano on Apr 15, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Lap Dance follows a beautiful corner system for three pitches. The route is like a climbing tour through the desert, with each pitch exemplifying the style of a different climbing area. Roughly.

P1: Begin in Indian Creek. A clean tight hands splitter in a varnished right-facing dihedral. A long aesthetic pitch with steep sections punctuated by small rest ledges. 5.11-. 155'. Bolt anchor.

P2: Move on to Red Rocks. Changing corners and a thoughtful stemming roof. Featured face climbing around hand cracks. Start up a right-facing dihedral and switch to a left-facing dihedral. As the gear peters out, stem into a improbable roof, clip a bolt and pull onto the face. 5.9. 110'. Ratty slings on loose rock and shrubs.

Move the belay across a sandy ledge to the base of the next wall.

P3: Welcome to Zion. Climb through some ledges and vegetation to a short chimney and roof. A fun pull through the roof leads to a nice, long hand crack in a right-facing dihedral. Enter a squeeze and exit onto loose and vegetated ledges. Scrap up to a nice ledge. 5.10. 130'. Bolt anchor.

Rappel with two 60m ropes in three raps.

Consider bringing some webbing/rope/cord to clean up the P2 belay.

Location Suggest change

This route is located a few hundred yards to the left of the second tunnel window. The route is identified by the long varnished right-facing dihedral of P1. It's visible from the parking area.

Park at the second to last turnout before the Zion-Mt. Caramel Tunnel. Follow a trail that leads through a wash and past some large house-sized boulders. Continue on the trail around the I'n'I and U'n'U buttress. Keep your eyes peeled for the black varnished splitter corner. That's Lap Dance.

Protection Suggest change

1x 0.5" - 0.75"
3x 1" - 2"
2x 2.5"
1x 3.5"

Optional extra 1.75-2".

The guide recommended a 4" and a 5" piece. Neither are necessary.

Photos

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