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Elevation: 2,079 ft
GPS: 49.6876, -123.1352
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Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Jun 30, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford
Warning Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The dark, north facing section of the Chief left of Angel's Crest and the North North Gully holds some of the area's hardest, purest and longest free climbs. Testpieces like Alaska Highway and The Calling make this the realm of the honed. Some slightly more accessible pitches can be found along with some single pitches routes.

The wall is split horizontally at mid-height by the Zodiac ledge, which can be reached by any of the long routes that start from the ground, or by scrambling up from the far left side.

The north facing aspect can make this a cool place in the heat, but also makes it slower to dry and shortens the spring and fall season compared to the rest of the chief. Expect a little extra dirt and munge than other areas on The Chief.

Getting There Suggest change

Approach as for Angel's Crest, but once at the base, head up the gully a touch further until you are on a very flat boulder with a cairn indicating a rough trail that heads left under the wall. This area isn't well traveled so the trails are rough and prone to overgrow or be hidden by seasonal debris.

21 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The North Walls Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The North Walls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 12
North North Arete
Trad 7 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Parallel Passages
Trad 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Gone Surfin'
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 23
Astrologger
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 42
New Life
Trad 5 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Public Image
Trad 4 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 42
Alaska Highway
Trad 5 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 19
Polaris
Trad 10 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Nanook
Trad 5 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 23
The Calling
Trad 6 pitches
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 10
North Star
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North North Arete
 12
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
Parallel Passages
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 7 pitches
Gone Surfin'
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Astrologger
 23
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
New Life
 42
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Public Image
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 4 pitches
Alaska Highway
 42
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 5 pitches
Polaris
 19
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 10 pitches
Nanook
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 5 pitches
The Calling
 23
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 6 pitches
North Star
 10
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad
More Classic Climbs in The North Walls »

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