Latest and best guide book for City of Rocks, Idaho

Is it still the Dave Bingham 7th edition?

Can someone please confirm the lastest and best guide for City of Rocks as coming from New Zealand and want to pre-order before coming.

What are some other great places to climb in Idaho for a moderate climber who enjoys leading 5.6 to 5.9 - sport or trad?

Can't help you about the city of rocks, but I used to live near Boise back when I didn't do too much climbing. I heard a lot about people climbing at the black cliffs near Lucky peak and a little bit up in McCall. If you want some good hard bouldering, check out Swan Falls near Kuna or Reynold's Creek out past Nampa. Sorry I can't help you with your book question though.

Philip Green wrote:Is it still the Dave Bingham 7th edition? Can someone please confirm the lastest and best guide for City of Rocks as coming from New Zealand and want to pre-order before coming. What are some other great places to climb in Idaho for a moderate climber who enjoys leading 5.6 to 5.9 - sport or trad?

Yep, Dave's is still current and the best. He's also got an "Underground Idaho" guidebook that'd be worth picking up if you need other venues especially around the Sun Valley/Ketchum area.

At the City, you're only 2.5 or 3 hours from SLC. Gobs of climbs in the nearby canyons here (the MP database is your friend).

For Idaho, Sawtooth are great, Massacre good if its not too hot...

When's your trip?

Thanks Brian,

We will likely be there early to mid June.

Phil

Philip Green wrote:Thanks Brian, We will likely be there early to mid June. Phil

Too hot for Massacre more'n likely. Might be early for the Sawtooth, but, maybe not.

Castle Rock next door to the City is also a good place for your grade range. Several shorter multi pitch routes, etc. Between there and the City, you could spend a bunch of time.

Might be around weekend of 20-22 June if you need beta. Give a shout when your trip draws near.

Hi All,

A new, all color, City of Rocks and Castle Rocks guide IS in the works! The bad news is it won't be available until spring '15. Until then, the current '09 edition includes 99% of the routes anyway...

Thanks to all for supporting my "labor of love" guidebook projects all these years. The new one will be killer!

cheers,
Dave Binghan

Hi Dave,

Where can I buy the 09 edition as it looks like Amazon no longer has copies of 7th edition and haven't seen 09 anywhere. Very confusing which edition is which?

Thanks
Phil

Buy it at Rock City Pizza along with awesome pie, and beers!

The 2009 (seventh edition) City of Rocks is the most current book. There are not many new routes going in, so the book will get you to the goods, albeit in a black and white (not full color format).

IMO, it's best to get the book from a local shop, who carries the latest editions.

Cheers. DB

Thanks Dave,

As I wanted to get before arriving I have ordered from Chessler Books, be interested to see which edition I get. Anyway they offer excellent shipping service especially when buying multiple books.

chesslerbooks.com

Thanks
Philip

Is the new guide book for the city available? Headed there in June.

Philip, where else in Idaho were you thinking of heading to? Slick Rock, near McCall - about two hrs north of Boise, has some 10 pitch, 1,000 ft slab climbs, one at 5.6 (trad) and 5.8 (sport). There are other routes and crags around McCall as well, (this place called the Needles may or may not be accessible by then) but most are not quite destination caliber, relatively speaking. Nonetheless, If you are nearby, Slick Rock would definitely be worthwhile. PS we just came back from COR and used Bingham '89 edition. Worked fine.

Hi all,
Still working on the new guide, which is taking longer than expected. In the meantime, it's true that the majority of existing routes are in the 2009 book, and some additions can be found in mt. project.
My advice is to explore the different areas and climb what looks good!
Cheers,
Dave

Dave-
I see your new edition is taking longer then you thought, I feel that's always the case with my projects. It can be frustrating sometimes for sure. I was making the trip up to SE idaho in mid June and would love to pick up a copy of the new guide then.(I always prefer to buy at the local shops vs the interwebs)Think I have a chance? Thanks.

Hey Dave, does this edition of the book contain beta on necessary rack size for trad routes?

A "standard rack" is, well, standard on most crack routes. (For me this means a double set of cams and a small selection of nuts.) When a route requires extra pro of a certain size, this will be noted in the guide. Many City routes are a mix of bolts and crack pro, and in these cases, I try and be as specific as possible about what is needed without giving a placement-by- placement gear list. I hope that helps!

Any rough idea when the new guide book might be available?

My wife & I are heading to COR mid-July. I have the 2004 book. I would like to buy the latest book at that time, if it's out, as opposed to buying the 2009 version. I know everyone keeps asking you Dave, but: will the new book be out by then?

Yes, people do keep asking me and I keep saying the same thing - soon. At this point, life is crazy busy and honestly, though I'd like to say fall '15, I think spring '16 is more realistic.

The good news is that there are not a lot of new routes, and the 2009 book will certainly give you plenty to do.

Thanks all for your patience!
DB

We will be for vacation at COR in may 2016. I really hope to get a guidebook in Salt Lake City or the Rock City Shop. Because we come from germany, shipping is not relevant.
So, is it already conceivable to get such a guidebook furthermore? Maybe the new one...
Greetings
Robert

Robert, A new guide is in process, due out spring 2016. It will be available in shops near City of Rocks, or in SLC shops. Cheers.