Elephant Head Gully
WI3+
Avg: 2.7 from 45 votes
Type: | Ice, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 5,175 total · 30/month |
Shared By: | J. Albers on Dec 26, 2009 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
2018 Update - The road work done on this side of the notch in the summer of 2018 resulted in a chain-link fence being placed across the gully about 25-30 ft up the route. (see Photos) Presumably the engineers put this in place to prevent rock and ice from falling onto Route 302, although I know of no time any ice actually made it to the road, one boulder did come close. In any event, climbing the climb from the bottom is next to impossible due to the fence.
Mar 2023 Update - See COMMENT. It may be possible to get under the fence now that 5 yrs of rocks, ice and debris have “ done their thing”,
Still,the Best approach may be to rap in from the top. You only miss the very easy bottom 25-30 ft. However, please take note of the potential difficulty of any rescue and act accordingly.
Start at the path to the summer rock climb (at the far left end of the whole rock-cut at the top of the notch) and then break right and follow a crude path of broken branches and the occasional flagging. At one point early on, the approach path leads close to the top of the cliff where very hard windblown snow/ice may be encountered, so "crampons on" may be a good idea. Expect about 10 +/- minutes, depending on snow conditions, eventually descending to the top of the climb. Old rap tree was eliminated by the blasting, but a new rap has been established. It's back from the edge so bring some long slings if planning to TR.
Once in the gully there is a good belay stance on climber's right just above the fence.
The blasting has created a new "Left side" flow that as of mid-Dec 2018 ends in rock/mixed (photo). Also, the now-middle section (that "used to be" the left side ) looks a bit steeper and more continuous than in years past. Right side seemed "3+ ish".
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Original Posting (still true !) :
Nice route if you have limited time. Probably WI3 to 3+ depending on whether you finish on the right or left side.
8 Comments