Mountain Project Logo

Good TR solo climbs 5.6 - 5.9

Original Post
climberdave Foerstel · · Henderson, NV · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

I have just about every guide book and am fairly familiar with most of the more popular areas but I'm wondering if any locals have any recommendations. Moderate Mecca is the only area I've done this so far. I definitely want to stay out of people's way in the more popular areas but will probably only be climbing early morning or early evenings. I have a new job with inconsistent work hours and days off so this in new pursuit.

Thanks for any info your willing to provide!

Dave

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025

Dave, I have been climbing in Red Rocks since 1987. I moved here in 1996. I still don't always know with confidence if a hold is going to crumble or break when weighted. I have been surprised a number of times...and it had nothing to do with conditions or moisture. Last week I had a hold break out on the right side the Panty Wall where the big block is.

For that reason, though I have up-roped soloed on granite and limestone near my grade I do not do free solo on Red Rocks sandstone.

I'd go out with you. I'm retired and can go anytime. A couple other of my partners have flexible hours PM me if interested

climberdave Foerstel · · Henderson, NV · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

Thomas - Thanks for the offer to climb. You can forward your contact information to climberdave@gmail.com and maybe we can make arrangements to climb. Regarding the top rope soloing (the only type of soloing I'm willing to do), I'm just looking for moderate single pitch climbs that I can set up a bomber top rope anchor on. I'm risking no more than a short top rope fall should I come off the rock with this type of soloing. I'm using a Petzl micro traxion backed up with another Petzl micro traxion. I feel quite confident with this self belaying system.

Thanks again,

Dave

cassondra l · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 335

Classic Corner, 5.7
Guys and Ghouls 5.6-Dickies Cliff
Gnat Man Crag-various routes
Panty Wall-various routes
Ultraman Wall- various routes (highly recommended)
Cannibal Crag-back side
Shallow Fried Cracken 5.9
Great Red Book 5.8 (when no one is around)
Peaches 5.7
Mitten's Revenge 5.8
Sumo Greatness 5.9

These should keep you busy for a little while.

Andrew Carson · · Wilson, WY · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,520

Ragged Edges is a good one, and though it's super popular, I have gotten in there very early and avoided getting in people's way, or they in mine. You can do Edges, plus Chicken Eruptus, plus the variation to the left of RE from one anchor. Good value, fun, easy on easy off. And if I'm out of luck and people have beaten me to the punch, I have gone down the cliff and found unoccupied rock.

climberdave Foerstel · · Henderson, NV · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

Thanks for the additional responses........I just need to get a day off so I can get out there and climb!

Dave

Michael Chailland · · Henderson, NV · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 30

Not in the grade range so I apologize... but The Fox in calico basin. Such an amazing route.

I'm really new to crack climbing (5.6-5.8) and TR'd this for the first time a couple weeks ago. Really gets you skilled in climbing a variety of crack sizes. I actually just got my tr solo gear and am going tomorrow to climb it. You can build a solid anchor at the top above the boulder someone slung. .75, 1, 2 camalots. Also a #4 for a directional.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
Post a Reply to "Good TR solo climbs 5.6 - 5.9"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started