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California
> Northeast Calif…
> Redding Area
> Burney Limeston…
> Opposite Main Wall
Chastity Belt
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 30
votes
Routes in Opposite Main Wall
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3 Vets (e.g. veterinarians) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Abstinence S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Archaic Revival S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Baby Food S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chastity Belt S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chopper Copper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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English Breakfast S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Exit Arête Right S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gateway Drug S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Gay Naval Twink Chemsex Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Geko Skin V2 5+ |
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Pop Rocks V5+ 6C+ PG13 |
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Pop Rocks Sit V8+ 7B+ |
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project groove S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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shred or dead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Terrys Angels S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wintu Wall S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Paul Bernard & Addison Cory |
| Page Views: | 1,835 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Steve W on May 30, 2014 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Burney Limestone is technically on private property that is owned by Bear Gulch Quarry. There have been access concerns in the past between climbers and the landowners, although it has been many years. Please respect the area, keep a low profile, and leave it cleaner than you found it.
Description
This route is located directly opposite of Spread Eagle. It is near the entrance to the cave routes, located on the left side pillar.
This route was a TR route for many years, but was difficult to access. It was bolted and led in 2012 with expansion bolts in poor quality limestone, giving it a bad reputation as dirty and dangerous. After two solid seasons with minimal rain and heavy use from the locals, it has cleaned up quite nice and now it has new glue ins to make it that much more safe.
Start on the right side arete and trend toward the left to reach the large owl hole, then go straight up for a more challenging climb. You can cheat around the left side arête to the anchors if you start to sketch for a .10a finish . The direct adds a letter grade or two for a 5.10b/c
This route was a TR route for many years, but was difficult to access. It was bolted and led in 2012 with expansion bolts in poor quality limestone, giving it a bad reputation as dirty and dangerous. After two solid seasons with minimal rain and heavy use from the locals, it has cleaned up quite nice and now it has new glue ins to make it that much more safe.
Start on the right side arete and trend toward the left to reach the large owl hole, then go straight up for a more challenging climb. You can cheat around the left side arête to the anchors if you start to sketch for a .10a finish . The direct adds a letter grade or two for a 5.10b/c
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