Mountain Project Logo

finger exerciser gizmos?

Original Post
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

I started using a "gyro-ball" (Dynaflex) forearm/finger exerciser on my commutes and have really been liking the results, both with bouldering in the gym and with various wrist and elbow creaks and stiffnesses in general. Also really happy to get at least something of value out of the hours in the car.

Anyway, now wondering: do people have other finger workout gadgets they like and would recommend? Maybe I'll mix it up a bit!

Cheers,
David

Ryan Palo · · Bend, oregon · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 605

I like to read the comment section on DrudgeReport.com whilst clenching this.

GripMaster

Ive gotten pretty good results with this method. Tho I think any gains made in grip strength have been negated with a rise in blood pressure.

Sam Fletcher · · Idaho · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50

Bucket o' Rice
Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

I just grip my steering wheel really hard. ....But that's more from road rage than anything else.

Southern Alex · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5
Ryan Palo wrote:I like to read the comment section on DrudgeReport.com whilst clenching this. Ive gotten pretty good results with this method. Tho I think any gains made in grip strength have been negated with a rise in blood pressure.
Mr. Palo,
Please excuse my ignorance in this question, but do you prefer the "light tension" version of the gripmaster? I would presume that you'd use one with greater resistance, but I've never used any of them, so...

(I'm about to invest in one or two of these to keep my fingers limber while recuperating from a rotator cuff injury.)

Thanks.
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
Sam Fletcher wrote: Bucket o' Rice
Thinking that method could get ugly in the car...
Ryan Palo · · Bend, oregon · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 605
Southern Alex wrote: Mr. Palo, Please excuse my ignorance in this question, but do you prefer the "light tension" version of the gripmaster? ...
I use the heavy tension one. + the finger attachments. Actually bought it for guitar practice. It's not really that great of a tool. I think these are a bit harder.

Ramsey the immortal
Southern Alex · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5

I've seen that device in posts from Stevie Haston...

Haston

Anything that's approved for training by both Bill Ramsey and Stevie Haston is guaranteed to break me. Nonetheless, I'll check it out.

Thanks for the information.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
Southern Alex wrote:I've seen that device in posts from Stevie Haston... Anything that's approved for training by both Bill Ramsey and Stevie Haston is guaranteed to break me. Nonetheless, I'll check it out. Thanks for the information.
Holy guacamole! I like how his feet are actually above the level of his head, just to really drive the point home...
Leify Guy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 367
By Metolius

And don't forget the Grip Pro donuts

Grip Pro rings
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
Leif E wrote: And don't forget the Grip Pro donuts
Have you used these Leif? What results have you seen?
Leify Guy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 367
Optimistic wrote: Have you used these Leif? What results have you seen?
I have all three of the donuts and use them when I can at work, while driving on long trips to stay awake, and when I watch tv (doesn't happen often). I personally like using them because I can warm up with green, move to black, and then burn out on red...
Ben Dubs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 16

Captain of crushers grips! On the number 1!

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55
Ben Dubs wrote:Captain of crushers grips! On the number 1!
I've closed several COC #3s and harder rated Tetting Grippers - it didn't help my climbing one bit.
Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

For over a decade now I have competed in what is called "Grip Sport" - a testing of forearm, wrist and hand strength as measured in a resistance training gym setting. I have been fairly successful at it................ but it hasn't helped my climbing much.

youtube.com/user/climber5111

az-grip.com/lists2.php

Ben Dubs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 16
Chris Rice wrote: I've closed several COC #3s and harder rated Tetting Grippers - it didn't help my climbing one bit.
I don't believe the "closing" or "crushing" is where the gains come from in grippers for climbing. More so from the isometric exercise of resisting the gripper from opening. I treat my CoC as a hangboard rep i.e. I hold for 7 sec/3 sec rest for 7 reps.

I also believe in improving my forearm strength in any way possible and I have seen huge gains in my climbing however I wouldn't contribute them to the CoC, it's merely one of the many tools of a training arsenal, but sometimes you just don't feel like going to a gym ya know...

edit: and holy crap Chris that's some sweet strength you have there!
kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608
Chris Rice wrote: I've closed several COC #3s and harder rated Tetting Grippers - it didn't help my climbing one bit.
I think the main reason for that result is that hard climbing on rock with smaller edge handholds requires applying intense force through the finger tip and outermost ("distal") link. So you need to apply intense force through one or both of the outermost two articulations (DIP + PIP) of the finger.

But CoC grippers and scientific-measuring "grip" devices focus more on muscles to apply torque through the third articulation back from the fingertip (I sort of remember that's the metacarpal phalangeal - MCP joint). And other stuff around there.

Which is helpful for a climber grasping a "bucket" hold very intensely. But the crux of most hard climbs is not the big holds. And usually there's no need for a climber grasp a big hold very intensely -- only just hard enough to hold on.

So if you make a conceptual 2 x 2 table with the rows being big hold and small hold, and the columns being moderate intensity and extreme intensity, the rock climbers need three (or two?) of the four table cells, while the Grip-competition winners focus on the other one.

Ken
Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55
kenr wrote: I think the main reason for that result is that hard climbing on rock with smaller edge handholds requires applying intense force through the finger tip and outermost ("distal") link. So you need to apply intense force through one or both of the outermost two articulations (DIP + PIP) of the finger. But CoC grippers and scientific-measuring "grip" devices focus more on muscles to apply torque through the third articulation back from the fingertip (I sort of remember that's the metacarpal phalangeal - MCP joint). And other stuff around there. Which is helpful for a climber grasping a "bucket" hold very intensely. But the crux of most hard climbs is not the big holds. And usually there's no need for a climber grasp a big hold very intensely -- only just hard enough to hold on. So if you make a conceptual 2 x 2 table with the rows being big hold and small hold, and the columns being moderate intensity and extreme intensity, the rock climbers need three (or two?) of the four table cells, while the Grip-competition winners focus on the other one. Ken
A better explanation than I would have given :). Thanks
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

I once so offended a friend by suggesting handjobs were just as effective for finger training that years passed before I found out my faux pas.

I think we have all owned these things at one time or another and have now grown so bored with them they got lost, were thrown out, or just passed onto someone else.

And no, hand jobs are not a good substitute. That would hurt given that amount of grip. Just...no. OK? Hope you don't unfriend me for saying that.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608
Chris Rice wrote: A better explanation than I would have given :). Thanks
It's much easier to invent some plausible theory after you've heard about the unexpected facts.
So thanks for first learning and now clearly expressing the critical facts.
rob.calm · · Loveland, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 630

Here are two good exercises that nobody has mentioned. The first is kneading bread, which is pleasanter than the rice bucket and has the advantage of making something good to eat. It really helps with keeping the joints in good shape. The second is the dumbbell finger roll. I usually go for a high repetitions with a moderate weight dumbbell.. Besides adding some strengthen, it seems to have a hygienic effect on joints and soft tissue in the hands.

You’ll have to decide for yourself if these exercises help your climbing.

Rob.calm

Kneading the bread

Final product

Dumbbell finger roll

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Training Forum
Post a Reply to "finger exerciser gizmos?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.