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Routes in Kid Goat Buttress
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Drilling for Dollars S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grey Waves S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Hazy Days S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hot Shot Extension S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I'm Your Huckleberry S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Keelhaul Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Keeper S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Raven's End S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sailaway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Say Cheese S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Twilight S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Twilight Zone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Water World S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 9,916 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | ihategrigris on Mar 19, 2007 |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose |
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Access Issue: Old access crosses private property
Details
The shortest access around the west side of the dump has heavy equipment operating during the week and should be avoided. Instead, use the access around the East side of the dump; it's longer but safer.
Description
This beautiful route is a classic 5.8 sport route. Cool moves, excellent rock, and great exposure define this route.
Pitch 1 (5.8 - 50m) - Climb up an arrete then out onto the face. Pass at possibly belay at 20m. Cross three overhangs to the belay station (shared with Keel Haul Wall), the second overhang is the toughest.
Pitch 2 (5.8 - 25m) - ignore the bolt on the overhang to the right; this belongs to KHW; instead move stright up from the belay past two fixed pins and a possible, bomber 'knot' placement (jam a prussick into the crack; you know you want to!) move right onto the slab to the first bolt (30' runout). Climb up to the crux overhang the over and to the anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.7 - 30m) Traverse to the right to the obvious, bolt protected weakness then straight up following the hard to see bolts to the anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.7 - 30m) Traverse right along the bolts on easy slab, there is one tricky vertical spot half way up.
Pitch 5 (5.6 - 20m) Follow the bolts to the left along the slab to the obvious top out (usually pretty slimy rock here). Belay off the tree.
Decent: Walk off as for KHW.
Pitch 1 (5.8 - 50m) - Climb up an arrete then out onto the face. Pass at possibly belay at 20m. Cross three overhangs to the belay station (shared with Keel Haul Wall), the second overhang is the toughest.
Pitch 2 (5.8 - 25m) - ignore the bolt on the overhang to the right; this belongs to KHW; instead move stright up from the belay past two fixed pins and a possible, bomber 'knot' placement (jam a prussick into the crack; you know you want to!) move right onto the slab to the first bolt (30' runout). Climb up to the crux overhang the over and to the anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.7 - 30m) Traverse to the right to the obvious, bolt protected weakness then straight up following the hard to see bolts to the anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.7 - 30m) Traverse right along the bolts on easy slab, there is one tricky vertical spot half way up.
Pitch 5 (5.6 - 20m) Follow the bolts to the left along the slab to the obvious top out (usually pretty slimy rock here). Belay off the tree.
Decent: Walk off as for KHW.
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