Getting into Gunks climbing

Hey all, I made a similar post in the beginners subforum but it doesn't seem very active in there.

I'm looking for recommendations for getting into climbing at the Gunks. I've been reading up from Freedom of the hills, but I want to get hands on now that its nicer out.

If you've used a guide service or taken courses I'd love to hear about your experience, alternatively if you're willing to take a newbie under your wing I can offer rides from central NJ or NYC, belays, beer, food etc. Possibly a place to shower/sleep about 45 mins away from new paltz.

A few questions that will give us a better idea of what perhaps is the next 'best step' for you...

1) Do you climb at the gym?

2) If yes, have you led any routes at the gym?

3) Have you ever climbed outdoors?

4) Gear?

When I first started (several years ago now) we went to the gym first, then were lucky enough to have a friend who was a guide fill in some of the blanks. We hired a guide once to teach us anchor building techniques. I highly recommend getting the basic climbing skills at the gym first, then working with either a trusted/vetted experienced climber or guide.

Although those questions are important, no matter your reply, I would recommend a guide unless you are lucky enough to find someone really solid to take you under their wing.

I wasn't so lucky, so I went with a guide a couple times then set about learning with another newbie. Although it technically worked for me, progress was slow, and I'm reasonably sure dumb luck kept me safe more than skill for some time.

You are welcome to tag along with me sometimes, but I warn you, my partner and I are the worst kind of climbers. We sometimes have children in tow (with childcare that comes along). We can let you know, though, if either one of us are out on our own.

And let that be a warning to you. If you decide to tackle learning to trad climb with another newbie of the gender of your preferred attraction, the challenge may bond you in a crazy way that makes you get married and have babies.

Alicia Sokolowski wrote:I wasn't so lucky, so I went with a guide a couple times then set about learning with another newbie. Although it technically worked for me, progress was slow, and I'm reasonably sure dumb luck kept me safe more than skill for some time.

The truth. [that was mostly how I learned, NOT a recommended path]

Kevin Heckeler wrote:A few questions that will give us a better idea of what perhaps is the next 'best step' for you... 1) Do you climb at the gym? 2) If yes, have you led any routes at the gym? 3) Have you ever climbed outdoors? 4) Gear?

I climb at the gym about 3-4 times a week, currently projecting about 5.9 there, although I've been told that the ratings at my gym are on the stiff side.

Haven't lead inside, but that's on the agenda for sure.

I've only TD'd outside, I didn't set up the anchor.

Have gym gear.

Alicia Sokolowski wrote:Although those questions are important, no matter your reply, I would recommend a guide unless you are lucky enough to find someone really solid to take you under their wing. I wasn't so lucky, so I went with a guide a couple times then set about learning with another newbie. Although it technically worked for me, progress was slow, and I'm reasonably sure dumb luck kept me safe more than skill for some time. You are welcome to tag along with me sometimes, but I warn you, my partner and I are the worst kind of climbers. We sometimes have children in tow (with childcare that comes along). We can let you know, though, if either one of us are out on our own.

Please do! The "worst kind of climbers" are better than none!

Alicia Sokolowski wrote:And let that be a warning to you. If you decide to tackle learning to trad climb with another newbie of the gender of your preferred attraction, the challenge may bond you in a crazy way that makes you get married and have babies.

LOL

JeremiahJohnson wrote: I climb at the gym about 3-4 times a week, currently projecting about 5.9 there, although I've been told that the ratings at my gym are on the stiff side. Haven't lead inside, but that's on the agenda for sure. I've only TD'd outside, I didn't set up the anchor. Have gym gear.

You'll want a helmet for outside (sometimes climbers have a spare). Shoes, harness, belay device, a locking carabiner (for clipping to the anchor), chalk is optional. You probably have the harness, belay device, and shoes. The helmet is at least $50.

You may also want to buy a cheap nut tool, it's a metal tool used to clean/remove passive protection (sometimes active protection - ie if a cam gets stuck), as well as tighten bolts (if the tool has those cutouts).

I asked about leading at the gym because getting an idea what it's like on the sharp end will give you an idea of how strong your lead head is. I led trad way before ever leading a sport route, so it's not mandatory but I certainly wish looking back I had done things in reverse. It's taken me unlearning a healthy respect/fear as a trad leader to challenge myself more on sport. Anyway...

Although I have one particular person in mind, there are a lot of great guides at the Gunks. If you decide that route, let me know and I'll give you his contact info.

My advice would be - get the gear needed (don't rely on others climbers, they could forget to bring something and you're stuck or renting from Rock and Snow in New Paltz).

Learn to lead belay at the gym, if you haven't already. You will be following for a while outside, and being a good belayer is probably the single most important skill as a climber.

When you feel solid at 5.9 at the gym try leading an easier 5.8 there that you've followed/top roped. I would work on leading at the gym, then transition to trad when you feel ready.

That's my brain dump for now.

Pretty experienced gunks climber, that being said the gunks is a place of giants and I am not one of those old seasoned gunkys that lead 5.12 with a pink tricam and a bowline around my waste. But I am pretty good with new climbers so pm and maybe we can get out

Hey Brasky, I'm also a new trad climber (very experienced sport/boulderer) and would love to get out if you're interested.

Pm me I'm local to the gunks

Brasky wrote:a bowline around my waste.

Sounds disgusting.

Jeremiah. You may want to hit the Powerlinez as you start outside. Some really fun short climbs. Good places to practice placing gear as well as some sport routes. Easy top rope setups. Plus your drive will be cut in half.

Keep me in mind in the coming months if you are interested. I should have some free time in another month or so. Def some time in the summer ( teacher benefits).

Just a thought.

Thanks everyone!