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Edelweiss Rope shipped with "CORESHOT"

Jeff G · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,098

"Coreshot"?? In that first photo of the discussion? Really?
You must retire your ropes after every 2 climbing days if that rope scares you.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Panda Express wrote:My post is factual. You can see the core on the rope. This is why it is called a coreshot. Let me know if you have another definition of coreshot. The core is visible in the enlarged picture. It's not big, but it's there. It's the white patch under the sheath. I'm guessing this will reduce the rope's lifespan. There is basically a piece of the sheath missing. It is not large, but imagine running the rope along some surfaces, this area is more likely to wear than others. I also imagine this is also likely to open up more, like a tear in a pocket or a crack in a windshield. So I will discount the rope's durability, which isn't right. This is one of the fanciest and more expensive ropes available.
I see what you're talking about. It's not a core shot but I'd contact Edelweiss about it.

Edelweiss sure is kicking out some lemons lately.
Kirtis Courkamp · · Golden · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 378

I never said my rope was core shot (the second picture) just that you can see the core through the sheath (which I have never heard is a normal thing) . I noticed it the day I got it, but I trusted edelweiss and have put about 40 - 50 pitches on it, and honestly I love the dam thing .

I was just not very pleased with this when you buy a new cord and you pull it out of the packaging and see a bit of the core and start to doubt the company that made your rope.

If theirs some literature out there that says its ok to see the core through the sheath please refer me to it. The sheath protects the core not vice versa.

Panda Express · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

Thanks for the posts.

I'll update later about Edelweiss's response.

Some of the discourse is poor and off topic. I won't respond but just to be factual to others else reading this and figuring out what a core shot is, my definition of "core shot" is the correct one. A core shot is when the sheath is damaged to the extent the core is visible. What makes this slightly confusing is that this term can also refers to situations where there is any damage to the core, for example the core is damaged and the sheath is intact. However damage to the sheath/mantle that exposes the kern/core in a kernmantle rope is the normal definition of core shot.

For example, Page 8, "Canyoneering: A Guide to Techniques for Wet and Dry Canyons", "Core shots: where the sheath has been penetrated and the core is exposed to view."

The same definition here: climbingterms.com/post/8606…

Obviously in the pictures above the rope is core shot, and these are more typical cases of core shots. However it is also technically correct in the other pictures in this thread such as mine where you can see the core, but it is unlikely the strength of the rope is compromised in the immediate future. However these are unusual situations (because sheathes on new ropes should cover the core!).

I may or may not be an alpine climber, who has climbed for several days on an increasingly mangy 8.5mm double after cutting my other ropes clean in half. I feel no need to explain why I object to receiving a brand new rope where I can see the core in multiple places in the middle of the rope. I find claims various posts here concerning bravery unintentionally amusing. Please read my first post again and let me know where I claimed the rope is dangerous.

The use of the term in the title of the thread has served my purposes very well. I won't be talking about this again.

John Ryan · · Poncha Springs, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 170

Edelweiss ropes suck from my experience, at least their cheaper ropes. My friend's Edelweiss would get a core shot about every two uses.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Panda Express wrote:Thanks for the posts. I'll update later about Edelweiss's response. Some of the discourse is poor and off topic. I won't respond but just to be factual to others else reading this and figuring out what a core shot is, my definition of "core shot" is the correct one. A core shot is when the sheath is damaged to the extent the core is visible. What makes this slightly confusing is that this term can also refers to situations where there is any damage to the core, for example the core is damaged and the sheath is intact. However damage to the sheath/mantle that exposes the kern/core in a kernmantle rope is the normal definition of core shot. For example, Page 8, "Canyoneering: A Guide to Techniques for Wet and Dry Canyons", "Core shots: where the sheath has been penetrated and the core is exposed to view." The same definition here: climbingterms.com/post/8606… Obviously in the pictures above the rope is core shot, and these are more typical cases of core shots. However it is also technically correct in the other pictures in this thread such as mine where you can see the core, but it is unlikely the strength of the rope is compromised in the immediate future. However these are unusual situations (because sheathes on new ropes should cover the core!). I may or may not be an alpine climber, who has climbed for several days on an increasingly mangy 8.5mm double after cutting my other ropes clean in half. I feel no need to explain why I object to receiving a brand new rope where I can see the core in multiple places in the middle of the rope. I find claims various posts here concerning bravery unintentionally amusing. Please read my first post again and let me know where I claimed the rope is dangerous. The use of the term in the title of the thread has served my purposes very well. I won't be talking about this again.
Your sheath isn't damaged. Miswoven or defective? Maybe. Not damaged though.
Georgehh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0
Ray Pinpillage wrote: Your sheath isn't damaged. Miswoven or defective? Maybe. Not damaged though.
Exactly. Not a "CORESHOT" as your title suggests. You should change it to "POSSIBLE SHEATH DEFECT," and consider drop the capitals. Right now it is pretty amusing though.
Michael Layton · · Sonora, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 5

The OP needs to change the headline if he or she wants to be taken seriously!

However, I'd definitely return that rope. I'm sure it's fine and all, but having that gnaw in the back of my mind would seriously detract from my enjoyment, and give me anxiety about what else could be wrong that I didn't notice. I'd also give the company a week or so to respond before crying wolf on the internet.

FourT6and2 ... · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 45

Y'all are arguing semantics. Coreshot, not coreshot, whatever. Call it a Hot Dog, doesn't change the fact that the rope doesn't represent what most people would consider a properly manufactured product. Even if it's 100% safe, I wouldn't be happy with it. When I give a company money in exchange for a product, I want that product to be proper. Return it. Go with some other brand.

Nate Manson · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 135

This thread is hilarious..."core shot"...bi-pattern rope, lawlz

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

LMAO!!!

Good luck returning a used rope!
Especially when the manufacturer has stated it's safe and correctly constructed.

That rope isn't even broken in yet. The sheath should settle down after you lower off on it a few times, or take a couple of falls.

Trust me, when I say that Edelweiss would never suggest that you continue to use one of their products if it might fail. Colorado Custom Hardware's lesson haven't been forgotten just yet.

Erick Valler · · flat midwest · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 20

I agree not core shot but a core peeking thru the sheath. Core shot is NOT the way to describe this issue. I'd still address the situation with the manufacturer though.

Nate Manson · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 135

ps: If you're looking for somewhere to send your damaged, core shot rope for further testing, I can give you my address...i'll test it out for about 2-3 years and let you know how it went.

Steven Groetken · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 390
alleyehave wrote:ps: If you're looking for somewhere to send your damaged, core shot rope for further testing, I can give you my address...i'll test it out for about 2-3 years and let you know how it went.
Aaaaaaaahhhhhhh hahahahaha! This has never been said before! Oh my God you made my day.

mountainproject.com/v/most-…

Too much funny
Panda Express · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

An update:

I heard back. Edelweiss did not contact me directly. Instead someone from Edelweiss's NA distributor replied, Liberty Mountain.

He claimed "the rope looks completely normal". He said that any of the defects I saw was "jostling" of the yarns and will straighten out with use.

This seems like a pretty incredible explanation, as in not credible. I've handled literally hundreds of ropes and I've never handled one where I could relocate strands. Even if I tried using a tool like a dental pick, no strand of the sheath would move, certainly not to the degree that I could see the core. The sheath would be frayed before shifting, as I would when it runs over burrs in real use.

Secondly, looking at the rope, it's not like a strand of the sheath has moved out of position. It's just straight up missing from the sheath...I'm not an expert but there literally doesn't exist a strand of the sheath to cover the part of the core missing. How would something shift into place that wasn't there?

Finally, let's say this is true and sheaths just "jostle" and move around to the point the core is exposed. Ok. So when it's running on an edge with a small bur and there's a leader fall, or even just body weight, what's to stop the sheath from "jostling" out of position and exposing the core again? This seems like a terrible design, if it held any truth.

There's been alot of feedback about this rope in particular, and one of them pretty much contradicted their explanation:

nkane wrote:My lovely girlfriend got this exact rope, and noticed the exact same feature. Within ~20 pitches it had gotten extremely fuzzy, with a couple giant fuzzes around the gaps in the sheath. So she took it back to REI. Thanks, REI! So there you go.
There's zero signs the rope shifted in the above case, and it confirms exactly the durability concerns when the sheath is flawed in this way. Sheath's don't move. This explanation seems extremely ad hoc, like they made it up on the spot. If this wasn't coming from a professional, I would assume they are bullshitting me.

There's an unusually large amount of feedback with this exact same model of rope, all negative in this thread. With all of the problems with Edelweiss shown in the thread, and the fact this rope is several years now, I don't think they take quality of this rope seriously, demonstrated by this answer.

He did not offer to pay for shipping to them or cross ship a rope. I sent it back, because I assume Edelweiss will send me a rope without gaps in the core. Will update then.
Panda Express · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30
Craig Childre wrote:LMAO!!! Good luck returning a used rope! Especially when the manufacturer has stated it's safe and correctly constructed. That rope isn't even broken in yet. The sheath should settle down after you lower off on it a few times, or take a couple of falls.
Yes, exactly. They said it was normal and that the sheath would fix itself. That's really interesting you know exactly their response before I updated this thread.

Craig Childre wrote: Trust me, when I say that Edelweiss would never suggest that you continue to use one of their products if it might fail.

Nice to see an insider here.
Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Isn't rock climbing awesome?

David Kutassy · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

It is awesome when you can trust the gear that keeps you alive. Haven't been climbing long but I sure do love my two Blue Water ropes....... :)

I was going to buy an Edelweiss as my first rope until I looked into some reviews. Abnormally fast sheath wear and defects were par for the course on almost every model of their dynamic ropes. Hopefully they replace it for you.

SDY · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

Seems like you should just quite using bicolor ropes, as they stress you out too much. Despite everyone telling you it's fine, you're still trying to find something to complain about.

Panda Express wrote:There's an unusually large amount of feedback with this exact same model of rope, all negative in this thread. With all of the problems with Edelweiss shown in the thread, and the fact this rope is several years now, I don't think they take quality of this rope seriously, demonstrated by this answer..
So you're saying there are some negative reviews on the Internet... Damning evidence. I think edelweiss takes quality seriously, they probably just can't take you seriously.
Panda Express · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30
SDY wrote: Despite everyone telling you it's fine, you're still trying to find something to complain about.
This isn't a democracy. If you have nothing to say, then you are nobody and barely worth the time to skim over your post.

Most of these posts are worthless. Like yours, they make false claims about my beliefs and intentions and haven't appeared to have bothered to read the thread before tying to make some comment that is witty only in their minds. They also ignore the numerous people who have actual experience with these ropes are share same negative experiences with their durability.

As I said, the issue is durability, not immediate safety. For example, I actually choose to climb on the rope after I noticed the core. The use of my title was to intentionally draw out such posts and keep this thread bumped for a long time. I can say this and they will still keep working for me because they don't bother to read.

SDY wrote: So you're saying there are some negative reviews on the Internet... Damning evidence.
Nope. Actually my problem is with my rope alone and this was sufficient for me to report it to Edelweiss. Also, if you discount "reviews on the internet" so much, and these discussions are just noise to you, why are you participating in one right now? You are using an online discussion to voice your derisive opinion of online opinions.

SDY wrote:Seems like you should just quite using bicolor ropes, as they stress you out too much.
Nope. I climbed on alot of bicolor ropes happily, including the one in my post. None of others have built in holes in the sheath. I just prefer it when I buy a new rope that I don't see the core, and that when I buy a new rope I don't have a sheath is likely to wear many times faster than average.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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