Scarpa Vapor V

A review of the Scarpa Vapor V from Drew Thayer:

Vapor V

climbingzine.com/review-sca…

The picture above is of the 2014 model.

2015 Scarpa Vapor V

good catch! Thanks!

in contrast to the review ive found the vapor to have a fairly WIDE toe box

enough so that i use them fairly interchangeably with other wide shoes such as the katana lave/velcro

IMO its basically a katana lace, but with velcro ... and slightly less edging

;)

I like how low volume Scarpas are but I do find them uncomfortably narrow in the toe box compared to Sportiva shoes (Solution, Miura VS for example). This is comparing size 40 in Sportiva to Vapor V 40.5-old orange ones, Instinct VS 41, Boostic 40.5). I actually sold Katana laces for being a little too narrow, cramped, and stiff in the toe box in my normal Sportiva size so I can see how they compare more similarly.

I know two climbing friends who wear the Solutions for aggressive climbing and Vapor V's for everything else. They are a good shoes and I think they are like a Muira VS with a better heel and more balanced and integrated construction between upper and sole. I handled the new version of these in REI and they felt really good and much improved. The only thing I cant get over, and why I sold my Scarpas, is the power/edging spot seems more in between the big/2nd toe in a dead space area. It feels unnatural compared to Sportiva for me. I think Scarpa would be more suited for the symmetrical foot shape with a longer 2nd toe.

Basically what all this meant for my climbing, these Scarpa shoes were killer for overhung/roof climbing (best heel and snug technical fit) but felt sort of untrustworthy/sketch feeling on more vertical climbs were weighting the foot and heavy edging was involved . Also they were uncomfortable climbing vertical or slab since weighting the toes crushed them together too much.

caughtinside wrote:Yeah, I would also call the Vapor V a medium to wide toe box. They fit me much better than either the Anasazi velcro or the Katana velcro. Wider than sportiva for sure, except for the solution. These are my go to shoes these days and I cycle through a few pairs. One thing I've noticed is the rubber that comes on them is not as good as Stealth. For years I thought vibram XS whatever was just fine but having worked a few projects with two pairs of vapors, one with vibrate and the other with stealth, I was surprised at how much better I felt on crap feet with the stealth. Also, the factory rubber is really thin. I think it's like a 3.2mm vs the 4mm I get the resole with. Minor gripes. I really like these shoes, I consider my foot on the wide side, and somewhat asymmetrical. These things edge pretty well, but for super edging power I have a pair of Magos in the same size. I don't like the fit of the magos as much but in the forefoot where it counts they fit well and those things are stiff. I also have some boostics in .5 euro size up which are comfy and good where you don't need to edge hard. Slab? Every shoe hurts on slab so far as I can tell. *my experience is with the old orange model. Haven't tried the new ones yet and don't know what changes they've made.

maybe its because you sized up, but the boostics are stiffer and edge better than the vapor v's in the same size for me. I also have a wide foot and they definitely have a wide toebox. If you want them to grip like stealth, get them resoled in vibram xs grip2 instead of the xs edge

comparing size 40 in Sportiva to Vapor V 40.5-old orange ones, Instinct VS 41, Boostic 40.5).

The only thing I cant get over, and why I sold my Scarpas, is the power/edging spot seems more in between the big/2nd toe in a dead space area. It feels unnatural compared to Sportiva for me. I think Scarpa would be more suited for the symmetrical foot shape with a longer 2nd toe.

I've found that I need to size down much more for sportivas than scarpas. 42 in the orange vapors and 40.5 in the TC pros. I have a broader shaped toe box, 2nd toe is close to the same length as my big toe. The 42 vapor gives some toe curl and is just tight enough to not have dead space, but can be left on for a few pitches roped climbing at a time in gym.

I'm still breaking in TC pros right now, but the 40.5 puts my big toe very snug at the end, but doesn't cause toe curl. I don't have any experience with sportivas down turned shoes though.

In regards to the sweet spot, I find the most wear just to the inside of my big toe. I do outside edge to flag frequently also.

The rubber on these seem extraordinarily harder. Hard to go back to my Evolvs that fit a little more comfortably... Something I'm willing to give up for that extra advantage.

I'm really interested in the 2015 line after that review. Looking for a second pair already!

I have owned quite a few pairs of Scarpas and these were my least favorite. I owned two pairs of Visions (the predecessor to this show) and a pair of Vision laceups.

The toe box on these is what I would call medium-snall. Wider than a Katana but for sure smaller than most of the Evolvs I have tried.

My biggest issue was the materials. The upper was a very soft material and got shredded bad from some foot jamming. My biggest complaint, though, was the velcro. The velcro stopped functioning compeltely after about 6 months of weekend warrior use. I would strap them on and without fail 10 feet up I would feel one strap pop off, followed shortly by the other.

This all applies to the older model so take it with a small grain of salt. Perhaps someone else can chime in about durability on the newer model?

Mine are fine so far ... Just sent a pair off for resole

Last years model

But i only use em for sport and face style trad .... Not footjamming

;)

Sorry to revive a dead thread, but I wanted to write about the old 2014 model Scarpa Vapor V in women's blue (same model but blue of first pic). When I was breaking them in, I couldn't find much info that they would stretch, so in case anyone else hoarding shoes / finds New old stock, I just wanted this info out there. Yes, they do stretch, probably 1/2 size. But I tinkered with mine.

I wear a size 35 shoe (3-3.5 men's, 4.5-5 womens) and got them in size 35. I wear a size 33.5 in Miura VS.

At first, they felt like they were cutting my Achilles tendon off. So I cut that slingshot thing with a boxcutter so the lorica could stretch. It was still too tight, so I made a few more slits and peeled the rubber between the slits off. It still felt tight for a while, then after like 10 gym sessions suddenly I realized... they felt absolutely perfect. Even though they are synthetic lorica, they did stretch. People describe them as a Scarpa's answer to La Sportiva's Miura VS, and I sort of agree. The soles feel are a bit stiffer than my Miuras but still sensitive, and feet grab onto small things without feeling insecure, like some of my other shoes. Feel very secure. I have these with XS edge (later they were made with XS grip.... um I got those also). Now that they are broken into the perfect amount, they are amazing, and I want to save them.

Time to break in another pair of shoes now.

Ana Tine wrote:Sorry to revive a dead thread, but I wanted to write about the old 2014 model Scarpa Vapor V in women's blue (same model but blue of first pic). When I was breaking them in, I couldn't find much info that they would stretch, so in case anyone else hoarding shoes / finds New old stock, I just wanted this info out there. Yes, they do stretch, probably 1/2 size. But I tinkered with mine. I wear a size 35 shoe (3-3.5 men's, 4.5-5 womens) and got them in size 35. I wear a size 33.5 in Miura VS. At first, they felt like they were cutting my Achilles tendon off. So I cut that slingshot thing with a boxcutter so the lorica could stretch. It was still too tight, so I made a few more slits and peeled the rubber between the slits off. It still felt tight for a while, then after like 10 gym sessions suddenly I realized... they felt absolutely perfect. Even though they are synthetic lorica, they did stretch. People describe them as a Scarpa's answer to La Sportiva's Miura VS, and I sort of agree. The soles feel are a bit stiffer than my Miuras but still sensitive, and feet grab onto small things without feeling insecure, like some of my other shoes. Feel very secure. I have these with XS edge (later they were made with XS grip.... um I got those also). Now that they are broken into the perfect amount, they are amazing, and I want to save them. Time to break in another pair of shoes now.

Curious how these would compare the to katana laces? I love the performance of katana laces for edging, smedging, and smearing, and they're super comfy. However, they don't fit the shape of my foot very well and I'd rather have a velcro or slipper than lace. I climbed in the muira VS for a few weeks and I liked them, although I'd prefer slightly less aggressive downturn.

eli poss wrote: Curious how these would compare the to katana laces? I love the performance of katana laces for edging, smedging, and smearing, and they're super comfy. However, they don't fit the shape of my foot very well and I'd rather have a velcro or slipper than lace. I climbed in the muira VS for a few weeks and I liked them, although I'd prefer slightly less aggressive downturn.

I moved from the Katana velcro (which differs from the lace?) to Vapor V's. Vapors are a little more aggressively downturned, a little softer, a lot wider in the forefoot, less tension in the heel, slightly wider heal, less pointy... It's a very different shape fer sure. I could only fit in the Katanas by sizing them too big (they're too narrow for me at the "right" length), which made for a floppy heel and a roomy forefoot, once things stretched just a bit. If they weren't as stiff as they are, they'd be useless. I've been climbing with them a little lately, and the shape just feels weird to me after a few sessions as I'm now used to the Vapors - they feel really flat, and too long for how wide I need them. I'm sure for someone else they'd be perfect, but I don't know if Vapor V's are in someone's quiver next to their Katanas.

Next shoe I will get would be another pair of Vapors, for sure. Not the best trad shoe, obv.

Y'all are getting the katanas and the katana laces mixed up. The velcros are a basic intro shoe while the laces are much better shoes and ever so slightly downturned. I've used the velcro katanas and I'm not a huge fan. I'll have to look into the anasazis.

"I could only fit in the Katanas by sizing them too big (they're too narrow for me at the "right" length)"
I have the exact problem with the katana laces. They fit perfectly width wise but I've got about half an inch between my toe and the front point of the shoe. I have very wide feet with a mild morton's toe

eli poss wrote:Y'all are getting the katanas and the katana laces mixed up. The velcros are a basic intro shoe while the laces are much better shoes and ever so slightly downturned. I've used the velcro katanas and I'm not a huge fan. I'll have to look into the anasazis.

If the Katana Lace & Katana Velcros are different shoes, then I can't be much help because I don't have the Katana Lace. I do see that Katana Lace is more downturned. I have the miura lace though...
Plus I don't have a Morton toe at all. Sounds like LongRanger had good info.

Katana lace and velcro are only similar in name. Katana velcro crushes my pinky toe, rand puts way too much pressure on the achilles, and the lower heel is stupidly baggy even sized tight.

The katana lace has a similar wide forefoot to the vapor, perhaps more room for mortons toes. It will be a bit stiffer than the current vapor velcro as it has a full length sole. Katana lace can be sized well w/o knuckling your big toe, I can't do that with the vapor.

I own the katana lace sized large enough that my big toe follows the down turn, but is no "knuckled" as an all around shoe into the mid 11s. Sandstone slab, steep sport edging, granite trad, and a few grade IV alpine routes. They do everything well, but excel at only one thing. Thin hands and below jamming in granite. The toe profile is thin enough to slot in at flares, the stiffer sole allows you to really torque them in there. Note my little toes are NOT pushed in tight with the size I use, this lets sole deform more in jams. That of course means they aren't the best for outside edging on thinner holds, I've been using skwamas when I need smaller outside edging power.

Beware with dubious claims that this shoe edges, heel hooks, etc better than the Miura VS or whatever other shoe. I have had my Vapor V's resoled twice because they became so comfortable, but the heel has *always* been baggy, and is the number one complaint I hear about them and Scarpas in general. Also, they have a split sole design, sacrificing edging power for flexibility for overhangs. That being said, the toe on the Miura is objectively more aggressive. The Miura also is a one piece sole, with a much more rigid, narrow heel, with actual Vibram rubber on it, not whatever slick stuff Scarpa puts on the Vapor heel. The toe pad on top of the Vapor is nice, but is out classed by nearly every other top-toe rubber I've tried, excluding obviously those that don't have any, a la Miura, Anasazi, etc. This is still my go to warm up shoe, slab shoe, and even wide feet crack for a pitch or so, and I find myself wearing them for the first 15-20 problems or 3-4 leads in the gym before switching to the Miuras for a more technical, aggressive shoe. Just my opinion, but the heel is garbage, and the toe does not stay aggressive for long, but it is very comfortable.