best techy vertical climbs at Rumney?

What are the best technical, close to vertical climbs at Rumney in the .10-.11 range? That's my favorite kind of route and need some projects. Also, anything that is weird and has a lot of stemming/body compression moves, like Flying Hawaiian and Heaven?

Hammond Organ at Jimmy Cliff
Goldbug at Main Cliff

Jimmy cliff. the place to be.
and although its not a .10-.11, the green mile next to armed and dangerous is a sweet techy 5.9

Waimea 10d is slightly past vertical, and is excellent, although it'll be wet for quite some time.

Barking Spiders 11c is funky and technical.

Sally's Alley 11c has a nice stemming corner to start, but does include a more powerful overhang toward the top.

Arm and Hammer 11b has some hard crimping at the start followed by easier climbing. Slightly past vert.

Lonesome Dove 10a--beautiful arete

Black Mamba 11b/c--will be wet for a while

Prime Climb 11b--same as above

F**king the Dog 11a

Peer Pressure 10d is some awesome technical climbing in a corner

Romancing the Stone (10c? or thereabouts) is a pretty fun and technical. Down at the 5.8 crag.

Know Ethics at Main Wall. I'm glad it got upgraded to 11A as I think it's pretty solid for the grade. Hard one to onsight as there are very interesting moves throughout the middle section.

I agree with your suggestions- but how did Lonesome Dove get consensus 10a? There isn't a single 5.9 move on that route. Hippos on Parade and Lies/prop are both harder. I don't know why I get so fired up about the grade on that climb... it just bothers me.

Anyway.

I'll add 100% Columbian to the list, coming in a little on the hard end at 11c.

Rob DeBruyn wrote:Waimea 10d is slightly past vertical, and is excellent, although it'll be wet for quite some time. Barking Spiders 11c is funky and technical. Sally's Alley 11c has a nice stemming corner to start, but does include a more powerful overhang toward the top. Arm and Hammer 11b has some hard crimping at the start followed by easier climbing. Slightly past vert. Lonesome Dove 10a--beautiful arete Black Mamba 11b/c--will be wet for a while Prime Climb 11b--same as above F**king the Dog 11a Peer Pressure 10d is some awesome technical climbing in a corner

You're describing Lee's favorite climb, lol: Ali Babbler. If only it went for another 40ft.

Lonesome Dove for sure.

Maybe Skunks in the Gym

Technical Second has a rad corner under the roof. It's neighbor to the right (Perfectly Blunt) is also good.

The start on Ten of Spades can be a little wet but is very manageable. It's mid/upper section usually dry out quickly. Compression moves up top?

Static Cling youtube.com/watch?v=dIDyr6M…

Nicky's Crack 11d is a great thin, technical face and IIRC it even has some easy but fun stemming to start!

A less well known good technical route is Walk the Plank 11b, up at the Crows Nest. Maybe not quite as classic as some of the other suggestions, but also more likely to not be crowded and probably dry now. Worth the hike up as you have a bunch of other good routes to do there also. The route 'Crows Nest', just around the corner is excellent also and a mid 10.

Thanks for the suggestions, guys! Now I have a ton of stuff to do this summer.

Just got my ass kicked on Captain Fingers today. Amazing movement.

I thought lies & propaganda was some kind of 10 now that the block fell off?

Ming wrote:Know Ethics at Main Wall. I'm glad it got upgraded to 11A as I think it's pretty solid for the grade. Hard one to onsight as there are very interesting moves throughout the middle section.

Best? No. Hardest/weirdest? YES. I also had a hell of a time flashing/onsighting, and have fallen off it on TR repeated afterwards. Worth doing, but I learned to hate it pretty quickly since there's so many other excellent ten's at main wall.

Goldbug is great, that's definitely worth it. Most of Gunboat Diplomacy is excellent and also at Main.

the bottom is steep and juggy and in my opinion not the most fun, but the top part of apocalypse is super fricken fun and pretty tech face climbing that is really fun. Know ethics is super hard especially if you are just a sport climber like me. Totally got my ass whooped on that thing.

S.O.S. (11a) at Crow's Nest might be up your alley. Nicky's Crack in the Hinterlands comes in as a tough 11d as well.

caesar.salad wrote:What are the best technical, close to vertical climbs at Rumney in the .10-.11 range? That's my favorite kind of route and need some projects. Also, anything that is weird and has a lot of stemming/body compression moves, like Flying Hawaiian and Heaven?

FUCKING THE DOG
FUCKING THE DOG
FUCKING THE DOG

go get it

Since it hasn't been mentioned, I'll throw in Machine Head even though only the first half of the route is techy/vertical. Despite its brevity, it has some of the nicest technical bits of climbing I've encountered at Rumney.

Just barely out of the range that you're asking about, but Flesh for Lulu is a great techy route in the .12a range you might want to consider.

Marc H wrote:Just barely out of the range that you're asking about, but Flesh for Lulu is a great techy route in the .12a range you might want to consider.

YES

caesar.salad wrote:. Also, anything that is weird and has a lot of stemming/body compression moves, like Flying Hawaiian and Heaven?

For the weird routes, try Twit (10d) at Triple Corners. Almost never gets done but is really good.

For a harder one, try Bonzai Pipeline (11c) at Waimea. Killer route that nobody ever does, Can be lead, but best to set up as a TR and stick clip the bolt at the start.

The next step up is Keel Hauled (12c) at Crow's nest, then White Zombie (12d) at Monsters.