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Elevation: 8,031 ft
GPS: 39.9788, -105.453
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Shared By: Mark Rolofson on May 19, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Mountain Rose crags are home to 11 sport climbs ranging in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.12b and 6 trad lines from 5.5 to 5.10. The crags sit across the river and uphill of Castle Rock to the south along the aqueduct path. These two side by side crags face Northwest and get afternoon sun. They are a great place to find shade on a Summer morning. These crags do not have the striking crack lines, smooth granite, and long routes of Castle Rock. Much of Mountain Rose Crags was dynamited to build the aqueduct, & this blasted rock varies in quality from solid to very decomposed. 8 sport routes & 2 trad routes ascend the quarried rock.

The East (left) crag is the larger with routes varying in length from 50 to 80 feet. Most of the routes are on this crag including the routes that ascend natural rock (that wasn't dynamited). The two classic sport climbs on natural rock are "Ancient Of Days" (5.9-) & "Sick Puppy" (5.12b) a desperate slab.

The West (right) crag is smaller with only 4 routes varying in length from 30 to 60 feet. This crag has the easiest sport route "Around The Corner" (5.8).

These crags are an excellent warm-up before heading to the 5.13 routes on the Frisky Cliff. They sit in a beautiful spot, high above the canyon floor with a great view of Castle Rock's south face. Enjoy the flowers & clean mountain air.

The first routes were established around 1990. They were minimally bolted without top anchors. Starting in 2005, numerous sport routes have been established & several older routes have been retrobolted. This a now a fun area with safe routes.

L->R these may be:

East Crag

A. Coming Up Roses, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
B. Mountain Rose, 10- R, 1p, 60', gear & gear.
C. Grizzly Rose, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Golden Rose, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Unknown, 10, 1p, gear.
F. Yellow Tail, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Steel Pulse, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Big Tuna, 11-, 1p, bolts.
I. Axed, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
J. Wyoming Prairie Dogs, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. The Ancient Of Days, 8- X (now 8-), 1p, gear or TR (now retrobolts).
L? Time Lords?, 7 R, 1p, gear.
M? Geezer Squeezer, 9 PG-13, 1p, 101', gear & bolts.
N. Hummingbird, 5, 1p, 140', gear.
O. War Drums, 9, 1p, 100', gear.
PO. Sick Puppy, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.

West Crag

Q. Short Sport Route, 10+, 1p, 30', bolts.
R. Short But Sweet, 8, 1p, gear.
S Dirty Rose, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
T. Heat Wave, 9+, 1p, 60', bolts.
U. Better You Than Me / Around the Corner, 8 X, 1p, 55', gear or TR (now retrobolts).

Getting There Suggest change

From the right side of Castle Rock, cross the bridge & walk right along the base of Broken Rock. The first section is just above the stream. At High water flows it requires a short scramble on a slab to gain a path through the boulders. Follow the base of Broken Rock to its upper right side & the bouldering on the far right of The Overlook. Walk right (south) around a fallen tree & then back left uphill. Walk uphill for a few hundred feet to the flat path along the aqueduct. You will see several manhole covers & hear flowing water. Walk right (southwest) on this wide roadbed path for 400 feet to the left side of the East Mountain Rose Crag. Continue right to your chosen route.

History

Suggest change
This crag lies close to the Barker to Kossler Reservoirs pipeline route that was constructed in 1909.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mountain Rose

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 97
The Ancient of Days
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 30
Mountain Rose
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 73
Axed
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 84
Grizzly Rose
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 78
Big Tuna
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 50
Steel Pulse
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 86
Golden Rose
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 16
Sick Puppy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Ancient of Days
 97
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Mountain Rose
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Axed
 73
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Grizzly Rose
 84
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Big Tuna
 78
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Steel Pulse
 50
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Golden Rose
 86
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sick Puppy
 16
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mountain Rose »

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