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Routes in West Bell Tower
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Beckey Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Lowe-Conrod Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Nerve, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ring That Bell T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
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Seeking Joy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sting, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1+ PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Brian Smoot, Les Ellison 1983 |
| Page Views: | 3,830 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Quitiquit on Aug 12, 2013 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon.
Details
A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
Description
Located on the often overlooked West Bell Tower, The Nerve bolsters some awesome exposure, decent rock, and some intimidating and committing moves. 3 pitches of variety and featured stone give this route reason to venture to the Tower.
Pitch 1 Climb the polished and immaculate stone of the shallow corner via thin gear and thin moves. Crux comes at the second bolt, try hard or fly. Sustained climbing, sequential, AWESOME! After the 2nd bolt and crux, clip two pins and step left and finish at a great belay ledge with bolts. 5.11a may feel harder if the temps are high.
Pitch 2 Step right, climb the handcrack past a mint shrub to a set of anchors. Dont belay here, but clip with a long sling, step down to the right and traverse towards a bolt above two large chickenheads. Climb up and right to two bolt belay. 8-
Pitch 3- The Gritty Arête. Clip a pin above the belay, and climb the arete through 4 more bolts and a pin. Small gear or slung trees to finish the pitch at a 2 bolt anchor. 10a
Scramble to the summit of the tower or to the ridge via easy soloing.
Pitch 1 Climb the polished and immaculate stone of the shallow corner via thin gear and thin moves. Crux comes at the second bolt, try hard or fly. Sustained climbing, sequential, AWESOME! After the 2nd bolt and crux, clip two pins and step left and finish at a great belay ledge with bolts. 5.11a may feel harder if the temps are high.
Pitch 2 Step right, climb the handcrack past a mint shrub to a set of anchors. Dont belay here, but clip with a long sling, step down to the right and traverse towards a bolt above two large chickenheads. Climb up and right to two bolt belay. 8-
Pitch 3- The Gritty Arête. Clip a pin above the belay, and climb the arete through 4 more bolts and a pin. Small gear or slung trees to finish the pitch at a 2 bolt anchor. 10a
Scramble to the summit of the tower or to the ridge via easy soloing.
Location
Located on the left of center section of the West Bell Tower. Look for the somewhat shallow left facing polished corner just to the right of the start of the Beckey Route. Just to the left of a large roof down low and right below a large roof up high.
To access the Buttress follow the main Bells hiking trail up the hill to the branch off for the Waterfall. Hike to the east (right) up and above the falls. Cross the creek right above the cascade and follow the obvious trail through a primitive campsite that heads east (right) following the creek a bit. This trail will then turn north headed towards the buttress. Maintain elevation and contour towards the wall.
To access the Buttress follow the main Bells hiking trail up the hill to the branch off for the Waterfall. Hike to the east (right) up and above the falls. Cross the creek right above the cascade and follow the obvious trail through a primitive campsite that heads east (right) following the creek a bit. This trail will then turn north headed towards the buttress. Maintain elevation and contour towards the wall.
Protection
It looks like all the bolts have been retro-ed to 3/8in rawls.
For Pitch 1 Bring your small stuff, and some wits. The lower third requires green/purple C3s, RPs and other small cams to .4 BD. A thin KB may help here. The Ruckman guide shows a pin in this lower section, but it is no more. The climbing is about 5.10 here and fairly sustained. The upper crux is protected by two bolts. Bring a single rack to #3 for the finish.
For Pitch 2 Single rack and two bolts.
For Pitch 3 4 bolts, 2 pins, and slings for some trees.
70 meter rope required.
Rap the route. Note: When rapping from the top of the 2nd pitch to the good belay ledge atop the first, keep tension in the direction of the belay as you rap, the belay is a ways to the side. If not, you will swing down and be out under a large roof.
For Pitch 1 Bring your small stuff, and some wits. The lower third requires green/purple C3s, RPs and other small cams to .4 BD. A thin KB may help here. The Ruckman guide shows a pin in this lower section, but it is no more. The climbing is about 5.10 here and fairly sustained. The upper crux is protected by two bolts. Bring a single rack to #3 for the finish.
For Pitch 2 Single rack and two bolts.
For Pitch 3 4 bolts, 2 pins, and slings for some trees.
70 meter rope required.
Rap the route. Note: When rapping from the top of the 2nd pitch to the good belay ledge atop the first, keep tension in the direction of the belay as you rap, the belay is a ways to the side. If not, you will swing down and be out under a large roof.
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