Half Rack Trad Routes in the Wasatch?
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Can anyone familiar with Big/Little Cottonwood areas recommend some routes that can be climbed with a limited rack? I have one full set of stoppers, a set of tricams from .125-2.0 and 3 cams (.5, .75, and 1.0). The only 2 routes I've climbed so far on this limited amount of gear are Daily Diatribe at Challenge and Layback Crack over at Storm Mountain. The routes don't need a bolted belay up top but it would be nice to have that or a tree/boulder to sling so I can avoid the problem of not having the needed gear when I reach the top of the pitch. Thanks in advance for any good leads! Cheers! |
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go buy two larger wired hexes to fill in for the #2 and #3cams and your rack is complete for most of the routes. |
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Heh. Reminds me of my early days when our collective rack was 1 set of nuts and 2 cams. It just made everything interesting (read: run out) though. |
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Larger hexes do work, they sure beat nothing. |
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you can probably do pentapitch. only a couple spots where a #2 is nice, and theres other gear nearby |
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If you're good and comfortable placing stoppers, bushwhack crack, the coffin, crescent crack 1st pitch, beckeys wall, short corner, pentapitch def 1st four pitches |
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I live near the mouth of LCC. You're welcome to borrow whatever you need from my rack. PM me |
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Crack Face on Reservoir Ridge would probably fit the bill. It's got chain anchors up top and is a really fun route. There's another one nearby called "Shale for Sale"on the Dam Wall that shares a chain anchor with Fall Equinox. Not spectacular but still pretty fun. Beachball crag also has several fun easy trad climbs that don't require tons of gear. (Reach the Beach, Masters of the Obvious). |
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Thanks for all the great suggestions guys! Greatly appreciated! Looks like I have enough to keep me busy for the next few weekends. If any of you care to join me on a sat or sunday feel free to pm me. Cheers! =) |
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Just climbed the 1st to pitches of Pentapitch this last weekend. Definitely the classic it's hailed to be! Thanks again for the suggestions! I think it's on to Bushwhack Crack or P1 of Schoolroom this next weekend. Cheers! =) |
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That's awesome! I've been wanting to get on that route myself! What is the anchor situation at the top of those pitches? |
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Scott, |
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Thanks for the info! The pictures of the route posted here on MP make me drool. |
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I'm looking to climb a bunch of fun moderate routes this summer if you need a partener let me know. |
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Some of the moderates in Ferguson would be great for a smaller rack. Check out: |
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Losing my Religion on The Waterfront in LCC. 3 short pitches. Smattering of bolts and a few placements. |