Looking for help with new ice boots

I am looking for some advice on ice boots to save up for. I am currently in the LaSportiva Nepal Evo's. I love this boot, but looking for something better.

I want a lighter boot to make steep ice a tiny bit easier and so I can pretend like I send way hard.

The weight is easy to compare, but I am also looking for a boot that is warmer than the Nepal evo.

If anyone has any experience, references, or opinions I would appreciate it.

Thanks!

You'll be hard pressed to find a boot that is both lighter AND warmer than the Nepal. Usually a boot is one or the other - rarely both.

That said, there are a few options out there. I would recommend any of the modern boots with integrated gaiters. The top contenders that come to mind are the Scarpa Phantom Guide, La Sportiva Batura, or Salewa Pro Gaiter. It just depends which one fits your foot best.

Batura 2.0

petercoe wrote:I am looking for some advice on ice boots to save up for. I am currently in the LaSportiva Nepal Evo's. I love this boot, but looking for something better. I want a lighter boot to make steep ice a tiny bit easier and so I can pretend like I send way hard. Thanks!

So you're limited on steep ice by your legs getting tired from lifting those boots? Really?

I think the Nepals are the best overall boot out there.

I also have a pair of kayland M+11 plus which are pretty light.

Theriault wrote:Batura 2.0

THIS.

Also I would suspect the new Nepal Cube to be both lighter and warmer the the Evo.

mountainproject.com/v/best-…

many people suggested the la sportiva trango extreme (silver bullet) in this thread two years ago.

is this still relevant with new boots on the market?

How does the silver bullet compare with the Batura 2.0?

JohnnyG wrote:http://www.mountainproject.com/v/best-ice-climbing-boots/107432644#a_107433015 many people suggested the la sportiva trango extreme (silver bullet) in this thread two years ago. is this still relevant with new boots on the market? How does the silver bullet compare with the Batura 2.0?

If you're looking for a warmer boot than the Nepal, going to the silver bullet is a bad idea IMHO. It's a lightweight alpine boot.

Gunkiemike Im not limited by mo boots at all. All im saying is that lighter boots would be nice and, if possible, warmer too.

Thanks for all the input. I've had my eye on the new Batura 2.0 and the Lowa Latok XT. I will need to try them on.

Honestly, the Nepal evos are great. I climbed in a pair for four years. They were never what held me back. Now I use mammut nordward tl's though and they are warmer and climb slightly better. Expensive however, but all 1 and a half boots are

Kin, you need to ease up on those bath salts.

Batura 2.0 - lighter and warmer, at the expense of durability. Still not a fragile boot, but any fabric boot is not going to last as long as a leather like a Nepal EVO (they last a LONG time). Unless you climb all the time, you might be ready for new boots and technology by the time you wear them out. Check out Dane's different posts on boots on coldthistle.blogspot.com, there's a bunch of good info and comparisons.

petercoe wrote:I am looking for some advice on ice boots to save up for. I am currently in the LaSportiva Nepal Evo's. I love this boot, but looking for something better. I want a lighter boot to make steep ice a tiny bit easier and so I can pretend like I send way hard. The weight is easy to compare, but I am also looking for a boot that is warmer than the Nepal evo. If anyone has any experience, references, or opinions I would appreciate it. Thanks!

Hmm, interesting motivation for a "better" boot. Evo's are a great, workhorse boot. You will be hard pressed to beat them if they fit you well. Look at Zamberlan boots. They offer excellent quality, all ranges of type and need, and a great fit. My favorite boots to date. Excellent right out of the box. They also have options in two lasts, narrow and wide, so a broader fit range than others.

As mentioned, a cloth/synthetic boot will wear out much faster than full leather. If you climb a lot, one, maybe two seasons on a fabric based boot before they become to floppy. Full leather is the way to go for longevity and bang for the buck.

The Trango Extreme have my vote. I went from the Nepal EVO to the Trango and haven't looked back..

They seem lighter and close to the same in warmth. I haven't had a problem with my feet getting cold(but then again i never have).

I would recommend these:
sportiva.com/products/footw…

EWRAD wrote:The Trango Extreme have my vote. I went from the Nepal EVO to the Trango and haven't looked back.. They seem lighter and close to the same in warmth. I haven't had a problem with my feet getting cold(but then again i never have). I would recommend these: sportiva.com/products/footw…

These are good boots.

While lightness is important in a more technical boot, you also want decent ankle flexibility (which the Trangos have). The Scarpa Rebel is also a good option, lighter for sure, which a fairly flexible ankle (though it may not be as good as the Trangos).

There's not a lot on the market right now for light technical boots right now. Seems everyone loves their heavy, clunky, Nepals. As Eward points out, once you get a more technical boot it's hard to go back.

As for cold feet - a good layering and sock system can go a long way. Also look at getting reflective insoles.

beccs wrote: These are good boots. While lightness is important in a more technical boot, you also want decent ankle flexibility (which the Trangos have). The Scarpa Rebel is also a good option, lighter for sure, which a fairly flexible ankle (though it may not be as good as the Trangos). There's not a lot on the market right now for light technical boots right now. Seems everyone loves their heavy, clunky, Nepals. As Eward points out, once you get a more technical boot it's hard to go back. As for cold feet - a good layering and sock system can go a long way. Also look at getting reflective insoles.

Heavy, clunky, WARM, STIFF, SOLID, climb in forever and not smoke your calves... Ya, I wonder why everyone is going back to full leathers. Once broken in, articulation is not an issue. Heck, even starting to see guys climbing in tech ski boots these days when super cold.

Funny how this climbing game works, the industry makes things lighter, and lighter, until they are barely functional for more than a few minutes, or are uncomfortable as hell, then the pendulum swings. I've climbed in all styles of boots (except fruit boots, I don't compete) and have always come back to the above mentioned "heavy" boots. Which, in reality these days, aren't actually that much heavier overall...

Just Solo wrote: Heavy, clunky, WARM, STIFF, SOLID, climb in forever and not smoke your calves... Ya, I wonder why everyone is going back to full leathers. Once broken in, articulation is not an issue. Heck, even starting to see guys climbing in tech ski boots these days when super cold. Funny how this climbing game works, the industry makes things lighter, and lighter, until they are barely functional for more than a few minutes, or are uncomfortable as hell, then the pendulum swings. I've climbed in all styles of boots (except fruit boots, I don't compete) and have always come back to the above mentioned "heavy" boots. Which, in reality these days, aren't actually that much heavier overall...

Nope, people don't need to use the lighter, more sensitive feeling boots. People were also pulling pretty hard in board lasted shoes as well. But I feel that having a more technical/sensative boot with better ankle articulation and lighter makes things a lot more fun.

Same thing with fruitboots. You don't need them on easier mixed lines, but because of their lightness and sensitivity they make things more fun. Some people think they're only for competition or high end climbers, but that's wrong. Most climbers could enjoy them.

Obviously, YMMV. I still don't wear climbing shoes with anything more than a slight downturn. I do however acknowledge that if I got used to banana shoes there would be advantages.

I know this thread is a bit old...but I came across it and thought anyone else searching could find this useful:

I wore La Sportiva Nepals (the old ones from early/mid 2000's, not the newer Evos). I loved those boots and they are still in great shape, but my feet have changed from a) getting older and b) broken toes and getting beat up with activities like Judo and Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu. Long-story short, my foot is now wider in the forefoot and my beloved Nepals pinch my pinky toes a lot causing my toes to get VERY cold.

While looking for a replacement, I came across reviews for Zamberlan; the reviews seemed to indicate that they had a wider toe are than La Sportiva and Scarpa. I bought a pair of the now discontinued Paine 3000 GTX RR on closeout and I couldn't be more pleased! They fit great, the construction seems impeccable, they are warm and my foot feels both stable and nimble. I have high-arches, so I swapped out the insole for a more supportive one, but otherwise the boots fit my feet extremely well.

So, anyone with wider toe area or that find La Sportiva too narrow, check out Zamberlan...I am thoroughly impressed with their boots.

Batura's with the new honeycomb sole are awesome light and warm... Sometimes too warm for cragging.

I was using the Silver Bullets but, am upgrading to the new trango ice cube GTX. Yeah it's fabric but, it is less that 2lbs./pair.

I got a pair of Batura 2.0 last year, great boot, barely weights anything. But they are meant for technical ice, there's nearly no rocker and there's not much ankle support so I wouldn't recomend for long approaches or all around mountaineering.

Old thread, but I'll add to the Zamberlan love. Highly underrated IMO. I have a pair of the discontinued Expert Pro GTX and they easily compare to Nepals. Killer discount if you're an AAC member as well.