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Beginner looking for some tips

Original Post
Joe Billiar · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 15

I'm new to climbing and would like someone to look over a couple of anchors I've worked on making with 8mm static line. Any tips or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

One type of anchor using magic x

Using figure 8

Doubled up the rope and used figure 8

Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971

This topic has been covered dozens of times... search box does wonders.

Kevin Pula · · Denver · Joined May 2012 · Points: 20

I'll just save you the time of searching. All you will find out in these threads is that any anchor you use... "yer gonna die".

RickG Gutz · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 35

Three anchor points is the minimum redundancy for many climbers...only going to two when all else fails. Any special reason you are only looking at two?

Just curious. I'm also a new climber.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
RickG wrote:Three anchor points is the minimum redundancy for many climbers...only going to two when all else fails. Any special reason you are only looking at two? Just curious. I'm also a new climber.
A bolted anchor is just two points and is plenty strong. Three points for a gear anchor, as a general rule.
William Kramer · · Kemmerer, WY · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 935

Big believer in keeping it simple, and if you are setting up an anchor on two bolts, why not just use a couple of quick draws or a couple of slings and some lockers? Gets rid of all the knots, and can be put up and taken down in seconds.

If building gear anchors, most of the time you want three points as stated, and there are so many different ways out there. Tip would be to learn as many as you can, never know when you end up in a situation where some crazy anchor you thought you would never use ends up being the best choice.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
William Kramer wrote:Big believer in keeping it simple, and if you are setting up an anchor on two bolts, why not just use a couple of quick draws or a couple of slings and some lockers? Gets rid of all the knots, and can be put up and taken down in seconds. If building gear anchors, most of the time you want three points as stated, and there are so many different ways out there. Tip would be to learn as many as you can, never know when you end up in a situation where some crazy anchor you thought you would never use ends up being the best choice.
A couple of draws is fine, too, for a single-pitch climb. Not so good if you're bringing up a second on a multipitch climb where you want to belay off the anchor.
William Kramer · · Kemmerer, WY · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 935
FrankPS wrote: A couple of draws is fine, too, for a single-pitch climb. Not so good if you're bringing up a second on a multipitch climb where you want to belay off the anchor.
Good point, I like building anchor with the rope for that, which again, huge selection of ways to do it.
RickG Gutz · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 35

Something to think about. Even with two bolts, we end up using one piece of pro just in case. I don't consider myself good enough to understand how good and bad bolts are and their weaknesses, so I just throw in a pice of pro or webbing to be super redundant.

I know...it might be overkill, but hey, I need the practice building anchors and I like and feel more comfortable with three since I'm not doing trad and mostly just top rope at this point - so time is usually not an issue.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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