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Metilous Mastercam

Original Post
Andrew Torrence · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

anyone have any experience with these? What other cams would you compare them to? And advice is greatly appreciated!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

You're gonna get flamed for this question. Mastercams are so popular; it's like asking "Anybody use Black Diamond products?"

Edit: Are you new to climbing? That would explain the question.

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10

outdoorgearlabs.com

Larry · · SoAZ · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 50
Stagg54 wrote:outdoorgearlabs.com
That is outdoorgearlab.com without the "s".
rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

I've never heard of Metilous Mastercam. Must be a Chinese knock-off. Best to avoid these cams.

On the other hand Metolius Mastercams have a solid reputation. Comparable to Alien and X4's.
;-)

Chuck Parks · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 2,190

I'd take an Alien or X4 over a Mastercam. It's not that Mastercams are bad per se, just that Aliens and BD X4s are both a little bit better.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
FrankPS wrote:You're gonna get flamed for this question. Mastercams are so popular; it's like asking "Anybody use Black Diamond products?" Edit: Are you new to climbing? That would explain the question.
haha right. What have they been out since 2008?

That being said I like them. Don't have a ton, but they are great especially in the small sizes (for me). This is EXCEPT the grey 00. The camming range is too small.
jcm537 · · Broomfield, Co. · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 0

In the smaller sizes, i have a set of mastercams & a set of x-4's. The x-4's are my go-to pieces but they place pretty similar. Mastercams are easier to clean in tricky placements due to less flexibility. The x-4's seem better for horizontal placements.

Andrew Torrence · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

Thanks for all the feedback guys, I'm new to read climbing and I know that c4 and x4 are like the king of the cams apparently so I just wanted to make sure the METILOUS cams were trustworthy and it sounds like they are

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Andrew Torrence wrote:Thanks for all the feedback guys, I'm new to read climbing and I know that c4 and x4 are like the king of the cams apparently so I just wanted to make sure the METILOUS cams were trustworthy and it sounds like they are
oh yah...super safe. Great great brand, and they've been around forever. Bomber. The 4 lobes and TCUs can walk a bit more than others, but once you know how to place them it's fine.
Marlin Thorman · · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 2,415

I like the Master Cams in the small sizes (#1-#4). I have found that the larger sizes (#5, and #6) can tend to get stuck easily when over cammed. I know you aren't supposed to over cam them but many new climbers tend to do so during their learning curve. The reason seems to stem from the fact that the back of each cam lobe has a curve on the outside edge (unlike BD C4's which are straight). Also just FYI if you plan on getting into winter climbing get something other than Metolius master cams. I have personally had them freeze so you couldn't pull the trigger to activate the cam. This happened to a friend of mine as well and he called Metolius to talk about it. They offered to exchange all his Master cams for power cams which have a different trigger wire (a 2 stem action). He has never had an issue since. All that aside I love my #2 and #3 master cams. There is hardly a rock route I go on where I don't take them. I would say they are 2 of my most often placed cams.

Mark Roberts · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 1,372

I climb on granodiorite and love the Mastercam. I prefer Black Diamond C4s for everything bigger than the orange Mastercam, but love the action and dependability of the Mastercams for little stuff.

My project last year required a purple (0) Mastercam for the crux, and I whipped on that thing a ton of times and I always felt confident above it. No kinks in it yet, still in great working condition after five years. The C3s are really good too if you're shopping for tiny cams.

Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

I have powercams not mastercams, but if you haven't heard of metolious then the subtle differences between these two models (both made by metolious) you might not even notice. I'm a new trad leader but surprised others haven't said, so I will, correct me if I am wrong.

Marlin Thorman wrote:I like the Master Cams in the small sizes (#1-#4)
YES!!! Metolious for small sizes love yellow, orange, red

Marlin Thorman wrote:can tend to get stuck easily
I think the biggest difference is cam angle, and that's why I like these. To dumb-it-down, sure ill get critiqued for this, Metolious cams grip better, while Black Diamond have more expansion range. While the 'end' of cam profile certainly affects over-cammed units getting stuck, its the increased cam friction/ grip that really affects this. IMO this is a good thing/ why I like them/ you learn how to place thru experience and this is not a problem.

Powercams are made for alpine! Lightest 4CU in the world right?
ZANE · · Cleveland, OH · Joined May 2011 · Points: 20

#1-#3 (Blue through Orange) Mastercams are definitely the thing I like to place most if I'm cruxing. Totally mental, but they always feel bomber. I have a full set of X4s as well.

Actually, come to think of it, if anyone found a yellow mastercam around Moab or estes park last spring, let me know! hahahah.....

Chris Whisenhunt · · Fayetteville, WV · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 995

I've fallen on both metolius and bd. I've had both pull and both stay put. It depends a lot on where you climb and the type of climbing you are going to do. I would suggest buying a single set of each.

Walk into any reputable gear shop and ask for an experienced climber that works there. He/she should be able to answer all of the questions you have. Posting this sort of stuff online is asking for the trolls to come out.

Hans Bauck · · Squamish, BC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 2,099
rocknice2 wrote:I've never heard of Metilous Mastercam. Must be a Chinese knock-off.
I have some 5-Nine shoes that I got on ebay that seem to work well, though now my feet are really blue. I was going to get some of the Blak Dimeund cams but I was worried about the lead paint.

Has anyone tried the Sperling ropes?
Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70

Probably the single most prevalent small cam on the market these days...

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,506
Andrew Torrence wrote:Thanks for all the feedback guys, I'm new to read climbing and I know that c4 and x4 are like the king of the cams apparently so I just wanted to make sure the METILOUS cams were trustworthy and it sounds like they are
I'd just like to bring up the fact that all cams rated for climbing are trustworthy, it is you who has to trust yourself to place them properly. It is significantly more likely that your gear will rip out because of a shitty placement than it is to fail because of factory defects/shitty manufacturing.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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