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Broken Cam thread

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Jake Jones wrote:What about people that have fallen on them without issue?
I drove today. It didn't light on fire. The brakes worked. The wheels stayed on.

In other news, I had turkey last night, it didn't have salmonella.
Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241

Nicelegs nails it on gear expectations.

Some of you folks expect your small gear to break? Really? I'm a big boy who lobs off onto double zeroes and I expect them to hold the next fall. And they do. Stop snorting the fear and climb something you can't just tripod your beer gut onto and call it technique.

Again, anybody defending the durability issue should try cleaning one of these cams for a few pitches. Ease of cleaning is a real working issue, I don't care how you parse it.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349

What's the matter nicelegs? You don't dig being disagreed with so you instantly go all Baby Huey and shit?

LOfuckingL!

Dude, like you KNOW so much more than others.

How long does one need to use gear before they understand? Longer than 36yrs do?

How old are you again?

Oh yeah! You climb 5.12 and I don't, never have, never will. That in and of itself is THE difference.

I now realize all of my gear knowledge has been negated by your super rad coolness.

Right on brah!

LOL!

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Experience falling on gear is all that matters when talking about the subject. 36 years of USING gear does not make a shit bit of difference if you haven't spent a substantial part of those years FALLING on that gear. I've been climbing for more than 20 years and given how little I fall, I'm not in much of a position to comment on relative longevity of gear when considering repeated falls on the same piece of gear. I'll admit I'd be talking out of my ass if I said otherwise. I recognize that there are many other climbers out there regularly take multiple falls on the same gear over repeated climbing trips, and expect that gear should be able to hold up to this type of abuse, and I tend to agree with them.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Locker wrote:Dude, like you KNOW so much more than others. How long does one need to use gear before they understand? Longer than 36yrs do? How old are you again? Oh yeah! You climb 5.12 and I don't, never have, never will. That in and of itself is THE difference. I now realize all of my gear knowledge has been negated by your super rad coolness.
I didn't read nicelegs mention number of years you've climbed or how hard you can pull, merely the amount of falls you've taken on gear. So...what is it?

Based on my experience, I wouldn't pay for any metolius cams either. Of course, I've climbed 1 year longer than last April and have in this 12 months not whipped on gear once (since I've done maybe 2 pitches on gear). I guess I should have more to say on the subject than last year?
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

Locker, I didn't mean to hurt your butt.

Tell me though, unemotionally, what you going up routes and not falling on them has to do with the type of damage this topic is about?

You've been climbing 36 years. In those 36 years, you've taken what? 100 good long solid whips?

I've been climbing 20 years, from year 3 to 3 years (I've gotten rather bolted lately) ago, I was taking good solid long falls on every outing. We might be talking 100 decent whips plus all the dogging every year.

Years does not equal experience. It's what is done in those years. I think just maybe in this case I might have something worth saying on the durability of gear.

I've resoled 7 pairs of shoes in my life. The first was in 1997. If I ever say I've been resoling shoes for 19 years and I know what I'm talking about, feel free to tell me where to stick it.

FWIW, I have a single gray hair on my balls now. Am I cool enough for you?

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Oh snap!

When did this become a penis-measuring contest?

Mine's 3!

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241
Locker wrote:What's the matter nicelegs? You don't dig being disagreed with so you instantly go all Baby Huey and shit?
Were you going for delicious irony with the histrionically defensive rebuttal following this part? If so... HILARIOUS!

Adam Burch wrote:Oh snap! When did this become a penis-measuring contest? Mine's 3!
Braggart!

It's good we weren't discussing rigid stems.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Adam Burch wrote:Oh snap! When did this become a penis-measuring contest? Mine's 3!
Some girls like them that wide.

#tunacan4lyfe
Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

#00metoliusNmyurethra

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349

Too funny dude!

You're the best of the best no doubt about that.

Can't handle the heat at all.

I simply agreed with Tim and Tim was correct.

Now continue crying like only you can.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Adam Burch wrote:#00metoliusNmyurethra
Our resident nurse Elena could put a nice wide catheter in that for you. Just think, no more pee bottles on cold nights.
Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349

Unless one falls on their gear, they can't possibly know if it will break or not (Each and every piece, each and every climb).

Yep! No argument from me on that one.

Fall away!

Thanks for explaining this to me.

EDITED:

Remember the "old days" back when A&W had that great root beer served in the frozen glass?

Made the root beer FROTH big time!

I do love me some FROTH...

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
Locker wrote:Too funny dude! You're the best of the best no doubt about that. Can't handle the heat at all. I simply agreed with Tim and Tim was correct. Now continue crying like only you can.
Oh the ironing.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Locker wrote:Unless one falls on their gear, they can't possibly know if it will break or not (Each and every piece, each and every climb). Yep! No argument from me on that one. Fall away! Thanks for explaining this to me.
You're making logical jumps that end up being illogical. You're arguing a position nobody is taking. That's called a straw man.

Anyway, lets talk about Honda Civics and the inexplicable "Furious" franchise.

Person A, lets call him Calvin Lockeus, has a 1992 Honda Civic that is still running with 320K miles on it and he's only ever had to change the oil and buy new tires. He's never seen the Furious series and wears his ballcap straight.

Person B, lets call his Douchey McVinDouche, has 12 Honda Civics from 1997-2009, all with blown engines, slipping transmissions, and wrecked suspensions. Douchey spends every moment he isn't getting tattoo's racing his Civics and has since the first Furious movie came out.

Douchey and Calvin run into each other in line to buy wallet chains at Hot Topic. They start talking about cars. Douchey mentions that he doesn't think Honda Civics are reliable at all. Calvin says he thinks they are.

Who is right? (Hint, they both are in the proper context).
Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241
Rob T wrote: maybe you just suck at cleaning?
Maybe. Word on the street is I'm not the only one finding this, however. And it's strange that I clean my aliens, zeroes, mastercams, DMMs, C3s (I have a veritable frankenrack of small gear) in identical-looking placements without incident. But, yeah, it's pretty easy to dismiss me and hard to prove I'm an expert cleaner. If I had a rack of these expensive pieces, I might find myself invested enough to argue user error too.

Between these units breaking in situ and getting fixed, maybe I'm looking at this the wrong way. Soon all our favorite crack climbs will only require a rack of draws and a willingness to whip on fixed pieces. Sorry, Locker, you can't play.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Colonel Mustard wrote: Maybe. Word on the street is I'm not the only one finding this, however. And it's strange that I clean my aliens, zeroes, mastercams, DMMs, C3s (I have a veritable frankenrack of small gear) in identical-looking placements without incident. But, yeah, it's pretty easy to dismiss me and hard to prove I'm an expert cleaner. If I had a rack of these expensive pieces, I might find myself invested enough to argue user error too.
Probably worthy of a new thread here but for name brand stuck cams I see Metolius the most followed by Wild Country (rigid). I do see stuck camalots and aliens, but not nearly as often.

I see a lot of that off brand stuff that used to be really available stuck too.
Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349
"Douchey and Calvin run into each other"

Can I be Douchey?
Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241
nicelegs wrote:I see a lot of that off brand stuff that used to be really available stuck too.
Are we talking link cams? True that.

BD and Metolius head up my stuck cam survey. But, then again, they're pretty much Brand A and Brand B.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Locker wrote:"Douchey and Calvin run into each other" Can I be Douchey?
How dark is the tint on your lowered Mitsubishi Eclipse?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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