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Estes, Grand Junction areas

Original Post
Trever O'Brien · · SD · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

Me and my family will be coming out to CO the last week in May. I have a 5 & 6 yr old and my fiancé climbs up to 5.6. I do have to give her credit at least she tries. I could lead sport routes to set up a TR for them and have looked on here but the beta isn't that good. Are there any areas around Estes or grand junction to set up easy TR with short approaches? If not what is a standard approach? I'm looking for something family friendly but not overly crowded. If so what would I need for gear? I'm trying to pack light since we will already be pretty loaded. We might be in the Denver area but not really sure. Any beta on these to areas would be greatly appreciated or anywhere in between. This is the first time we have been to CO and we hope to get in some good climbing, hiking and sight seeing. Any info. Would help!

TIA

Trever O'Brien · · SD · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

Why isn't there much climbing at the end of May? Where about in Utah? Any Utah beta?

Chris Schmidt · · Fruita, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

I don't know anything about Estes but this crag would fit the bill in GJ

mountainproject.com/v/four-…

Near Denver you could top rope at North Table Mountain in Golden. I know there are some 5.7's and 5.8's but unsure if there is much easier than that.

Nathan Self · · Louisiana · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 90

Trever,
I think Flailin is trying to tell a joke...

You may check out St Vrains Canyon.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
Trever O'Brien wrote:Why isn't there much climbing at the end of May? Where about in Utah? Any Utah beta?
Flailin is just pulling your leg.

Estes and GJ aren't my home areas, so I can't really offer advice, but I'm sure there are spots that would work for you. GJ might be pretty warm in May.

If you get desperate the Boulderado in Boulder Canyon is a good TR area, but kind of far from Estes and not scenic in the least.

Maybe something in the Iron Clads? Can be kind of redneck back there though, with paintball and ATVs.

Jurassic Park?
Michael Sweeney · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Nine Mile Hill in GJ might work. Minimal approaches, bolted, easy routes. Grit Wall, Four Blocks Crag. Pretty kid friendly.

Nathan Self · · Louisiana · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 90

Hartman Rocks near Gunnison is an ok spot.
Easy access. Lots of 5, 10, 20 ft boulders for everyone. My 5 year old had a blast. We were just climbing around on random stacks near pullouts. Might be a confusing place if you are looking for something particular.

mountainproject.com/v/hartm…

Bryan Gall · · New Castle, CO · Joined Sep 2002 · Points: 260

Check out Rifle Mountain Park, specifically the easy routes at the sno-cone wall, funny face, potato wall/ice caves. Super easy approaches, fun creek for the kids to play in. Take them by the fish hatchery and state park below the park as well. You will not be disappointed. If you need support, glenwood climbing guides offer some great opportunities.

Eric Klammer · · Eagle, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 2,070

The Lily Lake area has a pretty short approach, lots of easy but fun climbs, should be pretty nice in May, and has great views of the Diamond and RMNP in general. Check it out!

KevinCO · · Loveland, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 60

Elmer Fuddds Wok and Combat Rock have a very short approach.

mountainproject.com/v/elmer…

mountainproject.com/v/comba…

You walk by Elmer Fudd's Wok along the way to Combat Rock. The Wok is at the bottom of the draw on the right side. It could be hot in May and the Wok is mostly in the shade.

Nick Reecy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 43,362

The biting midges/gnats are often out in full force during May/June. I generally climb year round in the Grand Junction area. But I don't climb during that time for that reason.

With that said, we are having an early spring. This could mean the bug reign would be done by the end of May.

Trever O'Brien · · SD · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25
Chris Schmidt wrote:I don't know anything about Estes but this crag would fit the bill in GJ mountainproject.com/v/four-… Near Denver you could top rope at North Table Mountain in Golden. I know there are some 5.7's and 5.8's but unsure if there is much easier than that.
Anything in the grand junction area with a little easier approach? We have a dilemma, my fiancé injured her ankle and has a boot. She is still willing to give it a shot but just looking for something with easy approach and good belay stance. If anyone has recommendations it would be appreciated!
Bryan Gall · · New Castle, CO · Joined Sep 2002 · Points: 260

I'll say it again: Rifle mountain park. About an hour from junction. There is no better for what you're asking.

DavidCollins · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 20
Trever O'Brien wrote: Anything in the grand junction area with a little easier approach? We have a dilemma, my fiancé injured her ankle and has a boot. She is still willing to give it a shot but just looking for something with easy approach and good belay stance. If anyone has recommendations it would be appreciated!
That will rule out the easier climbing in Grand Junction. The Nine Mile hill crags all have approaches with steep, loose trails - not bad for almost everyone but these will be a pain with the boot. Anything closer to the road will be too difficult.

I have not been to Rifle yet this year, but it should be fine now, although it may be wet after all the rain we have had. Maybe a little chilly but you can always climb on a sunny face. The approaches to even the easier routes should be OK with the boot.
Trever O'Brien · · SD · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

Ok cool we will check it out. Thanks!

erik wellborn · · manitou springs · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 355

Eleven mile canyon has very short approaches to moderate climbs. You can literally belay off your bumper at 11mile dome.

Trever O'Brien · · SD · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

Are the lily mountain approaches steep??

Trever O'Brien · · SD · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

So far no luck. Rain got us one day and about an hour ago we spent an hour looking for four blocks with no luck. Directions are so veg. We are going to try rifle now and see. Any other suggestions. We are heading to the Denver area.

James Hicks · · Fruita, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 131
Trever O'Brien wrote:So far no luck. Rain got us one day and about an hour ago we spent an hour looking for four blocks with no luck. Directions are so veg. We are going to try rifle now and see. Any other suggestions. We are heading to the Denver area.
You can see the four blocks crag from the highway, I don't recall it being all that hard to find. The pull off is just a bit out of sight as you round the corner. I recall the mileage being pretty spot on though in the description. There isn't really anything between GJ and Rifle that fits your requirements though. If you keep going past rifle there is some good climbing around Glenwood Springs.

Clear Creek Canyon is on the way back to Denver as well, but by the time you get there you will only have a couple hours of daylight left probably. Tons of easy/moderate sport there.
Trever O'Brien · · SD · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

I thought I could spot it from the road too. At 4.5 miles I there was a bend with a boulder on each side of the road and the only pull off was on the right side with no drainage ditch. I'm not sure where we went wrong but it has been frustrating all the directions on here have just been veg. We have been to several spots and we turn around because the directions always seem easier than they actually are. I need to get a good partner because my fiancé hates hiking and the adventure part. If it takes more than 20 to find its a done deal. I'm just not sure I'm meant to climb. Anyone need extra gear?? Lol

Steven Groetken · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 390

Not knowing exactly where you are is part of the fun, i.e. adventure. Denver has a ton of gyms with easy approaches and well defined routes.... As far as outside goes, if you have perfect beta, you're not getting the full experience. Don't give up! I'm not sure how the climbing is in Nebraska, but since you're in Colorado, might as well do Colorado things or else you'll probably regret it. The weather is amazing right now, and the rocks always are. Get after it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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