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petzl sum'tec

Original Post
wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Looking at possibly picking up a Petzl Sum'tec. Right now I've got a set of Quarks (new style) as well as a Black diamond raven (70 cm).

My uses would be paired with a quark for routes similar to the Kautz or slightly steeper, or for my wife to use while following on steep snow paired with the raven (50-60 degrees) while I lead with the quarks.

Thinking that the Sum'tec paired with a quark for Kautz like routes would give me a tool that plunges well for the non technical climbing while still climbing ice decently.

Am I on the right track with my thinking or would the Sum'tec not be a good fit for my uses?

Also, any thoughts on hammer vs adze and whether to go long vs short?

Clint Helander · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 612

Go short with a hammer

for kautz at least...pounding pickets will be advantageous.

those are great little tools and would do well on other cascade routes like Forbidden-Torment Traverse, etc.

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

One other thing I should add is that I have a quark with an adze and one with a hammer

webdog · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 0

I like the Grivel and Petzl axes but the BD Venom has the advantage of being able to replace the pick

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
webdog wrote:I like the Grivel and Petzl axes but the BD Venom has the advantage of being able to replace the pick
Sum'Tec has a replaceable pick.
mtnmandan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 5

Haven't done the Kautz, but I think you're right on track. I've got the Sum'Tec in the 59cm Adze version. I love it for alpine routes where I'm plunging it most of the time, but have some technical ice. It's not as good as a dedicated climbing tool, but it's very capable technically. I've led 4+ with it, which is about as hard as I lead.

Regarding length, I think 59cm is pretty ideal. Long enough for comfortable plunging and self arrest, short enough to climb with. Any shorter and I think you may as well just buy another quark. The super short one could be nice as an ultralight 2nd tool, but I don't think that's what you're looking for.

If you've got an adze and hammer quark, and an adze Raven, then a hammer would probably make sense you you can each have a hammer and an adze. Unfortunately, I think as a 59cm it's only available with an adze, so maybe buy a hammer for that second quark?

Rocky_Mtn_High · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 230

I really like the Sum'Tec for alpine climbs, especially when you will encounter short sections of ice. It is aggressive enough to work really well as a second ice tool (I pair it with a Quark), and it can be used as your primary ice axe for glacier travel, as well. I just replaced my 52-cm axe with the 59-cm version, as I find the slightly longer tool to be more comfortable, effective, and confidence-inspiring when it comes to self-arrest and glissading control, thanks to the increased leverage.

BTW, the main reason I retired my previous Sum'Tec was because I discovered a 2.5cm hairline stress fracture at the top of the shaft under the pick. I'm not sure how long it was there because I tape the top of the shaft (and pick) as insulation, so if you insulate your axes, be sure to check under the tape occasionally for any damage.

Sum-Tec stress fracture

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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