2 bolt anchor

David Coley wrote: Assuming we are swinging leads and the bolts good, standard Banshee belay using the rope: i.e. big locker on bolt one / clove hitch rope to this / carabiner on second bolt / clove rope to this / clip reverso in guide mode to big locker (yes, metal-to-metal). Just about fastest the way there is.

+1
Best system I've found at bolted multi pitch anchors.

keithconn wrote:Sliding X is second for me. Here is the quad. I agree it may be overkill, which is why I might be asking this question, but it is quick to set up.

So Keith, the only issue with this set-up, and I see lots of people unintentionally making this mistake, is that you are clipping 3 of the strands in your quad, leaving one unclipped. The issue is that if one of the pieces was to fail, you are now only really being held up by the single strand. Check it out. Less than ideal, when you can clip only 2 of the quad's strands and have built in redundancy if an anchor leg was to fail.

Big fan of the quad, but it does have this drawback.

Ryan Huetter wrote: So Keith, the only issue with this set-up, and I see lots of people unintentionally making this mistake, is that you are clipping 3 of the strands in your quad, leaving one unclipped. The issue is that if one of the pieces was to fail, you are now only really being held up by the single strand. Check it out. Less than ideal, when you can clip only 2 of the quad's strands and have built in redundancy if an anchor leg was to fail. Big fan of the quad, but it does have this drawback.

Don't think it is unintentional... that is how I was taught and how numerous guides I know teach it. Clip 3 strands for top rope, 2 for muli-pitch, but never 4. That said, I do see your point...

Ryan. I hear you. Especially if one leg fails and the single strand is weighted. Depending on where you tie the stopper knots that could be a significant weighting. To be honest I don't know but like it was pointed out, that's what everyone recommends with the quad.

Jack C. wrote: I've read some awful stuff about knotting dyneema. For a toprope or multipitch anchor with a bomber first piece on lead it's probably fine. Knotting dyneema, however, definitely weakens it(as any knot does) to the point of failure with short static falls not uncommon for an anchor setup if you're messing about above your gear. Might warrant some looking into. DMM has got some easy to understand videos on the subject if you're interested.

dont go above your anchor ... if you do tie in with the rope or use a dynamic tether

trust me ... you really dont want to fall solely on a nylon sling either

;)

rocknice2 wrote: +1 Best system I've found at bolted multi pitch anchors.

+2

I've found the Belay Sling / Banshee setups to be extremely fast and useful.

Everyone should take the time to read Coley's chapter on anchors in his book. Best summary of systems out there right now.

bearbreeder wrote: dont go above your anchor ... if you do tie in with the rope or use a dynamic tether trust me ... you really dont want to fall solely on a nylon sling either ;)

Thanks B. I didn't know how to reply to that. I didn't wanna sound like a dick if I replied about the dynamic properties of the rope absorbing a fall.

I use a nylon sling to extend my rappels. I wanna use a dyneema one but Ive watched a that DMM video. While I feel my body will absorb And keep the KNs down better than a steel weight Im going to stay with nylon. I also use Misty Mountain nylon slings on most of my trad draws. I always clip nylon draws to the first few places I place on every pitch.

This whole thread is silly.

After all, we all know that two bolts isn't enough to anchor in with. If there aren't at least 6, it's your responsibility to add the extra bolts. Safety first!!

Bill Kirby wrote: Thanks B. I didn't know how to reply to that. I didn't wanna sound like a dick if I replied about the dynamic properties of the rope absorbing a fall. I use a nylon sling to extend my rappels. I wanna use a dyneema one but Ive watched a that DMM video. While I feel my body will absorb And keep the KNs down better than a steel weight Im going to stay with nylon. I also use Misty Mountain nylon slings on most of my trad draws. I always clip nylon draws to the first few places I place on every pitch.

personally i think this deadly dyneema thing has gone a bit too far ... folks are freaking out about dyneema is every application these days

i understand if someone wants a personal tether not to be of dyneema ... but if yr that worried yr honestly much better off with a dynamic lanyard like the beal dynaconnexion or a purcell

but for anchors its absolutely and utterly fine as long as you have rope in the system

and for runners, deadly dyneema is the least of your worries as you have a device that slips at a few KN regardless not to mention a dynamic rope

i bring a nylon sling or two, but thats mostly for use as a bandolier or the occasional aid move

dyneema is significantly lighter, easier to handle when wet/icy, and less bulky

its a hilarious thing to worry about that deadly dyneema when theres rope in the system ... when you consider that many cams these days and some harnesses have that deadly dyneema !!!

;)

For multi-pitch, it's tough to beat this for speed and bomber-ness: mountainproject.com/v/10748…. Similar to what was mentioned above, except the belay is equalized between the two bolts. If you're worried about extension should one of the bolts pop, you can clip them together with a draw.

Thanks again B.

I've had almost insane conservations with people about using a dyneema sling for an auto block. I'm not saying use one every time you rap. If it's all you have tie an aklemlist (spelling) knot and go be safe.

You all make me feel like a complete half asser. For multipitch: two lockers, clove on each and call it good.

See "Myth 4: You can make a clove hitch slip when tied in with it" here:
geir.com/mythbuster.html

Personally I just hate working with anchors made out of webbing, dynex or nylon. In my experience, after any shock loading (TR, multi, whatever) knots jam up in the stuff horrifically negating, for me, any weight savings for the stuff. I always prefer to use round accessory cord where the knots come out in seconds.

mediocre wrote:Never heard of the quad anchor, but it doesn't look incredibly redundant. We've got 2 draws with 2 lockers each. A little overkill, but if/when I get hurt climbing, I'll be damned if it's because of a sport anchor.

It's a self equalizing anchor with limited extension and it's redundant as hell.

Perfect for running laps on TR or bolted anchors on multi-pitch routes.

Quad. Two draws won't equalize.

Nate Solnit wrote:Personally I just hate working with anchors made out of webbing, dynex or nylon. In my experience, after any shock loading (TR, multi, whatever) knots jam up in the stuff horrifically negating, for me, any weight savings for the stuff. I always prefer to use round accessory cord where the knots come out in seconds.

Tie in a carabiner when tying a figure eight for the master point. If the knot won't loosen take out the non locker. The knot will be loose and easy to untie.

agd wrote:Quad. Two draws won't equalize.

You're on two bolts, equalization does not matter.

David Gibbs wrote: You're on two bolts, equalization does not matter.

Microfractures!

Another vote for the Quad. I mostly run a lot of single pitch. I keep it tied up and racked on my harness. Simple. Secure a few lockers and I'm good to go - no fuss.

I like the idea/simplicity of two quickdraws, however: I'd want to re-fit them with lockers; and, too often I don't like the angle they form off the two bolts. The angle issue could be solved with longer draws, or alpines, but then I'd be carrying extra gear anyway (unless I'm familiar with the route). So I'd rather just carry the Quad and be done with it.

That was a lot of blabbing. In summary: +1 Quad

Hold on, what?

I really just chimed in, then ignored this thread only to leave a jackass comment two posts ago... But Quad? What? I just skim read and still can't figure out why the hell you would do this.

If you're bringing a cordellette, equalize a master point, eight on a bight. Why are you doing anything else? Your losing 'No-Extension' just so you can make your redundancy redundant?? What? Am I missing something?

You guys should be hanging out with this dude.
youtube.com/watch?v=Qd8bHA5…

I will maybe re-read to see if I am missing something...