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Footloose 'N' Fancy Free
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 22
votes
Routes in West Face
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Footloose 'N' Fancy Free S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Monster Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scarecrow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sword in the Stone T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Leonard Coyne & Ed Webster, 1977 |
| Page Views: | 8,258 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Bosier Parsons on Dec 31, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closure - lifted
Details
Per Bret Tennis: I wanted to share that we have lifted the rock climbing closures for Gray Rock in Garden of the Gods.
Previously: the 2023 seasonal closure on the east face/north end are now in place per Bret Tennis, GOG staff. The permanent closures on the south end are still in effect.
The seasonal climbing closure were the same as 2021 in 2022 (which started 3/26/22):
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors and other birds. (These closures will be lifted as the birds' protection allows.)
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant (Keyhole) and Gray Rock (Kindergarten) is PERMANENTLY closed to all activity.
One exception is that Family Values is open.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Older info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The North East face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
New as of 2018: a portion of the west face of this formation (at least from & including Monster Crack, 5.8, to & including Sword in the Stone, 5.8, and Big Sky) is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
Previously: the 2023 seasonal closure on the east face/north end are now in place per Bret Tennis, GOG staff. The permanent closures on the south end are still in effect.
The seasonal climbing closure were the same as 2021 in 2022 (which started 3/26/22):
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors and other birds. (These closures will be lifted as the birds' protection allows.)
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant (Keyhole) and Gray Rock (Kindergarten) is PERMANENTLY closed to all activity.
One exception is that Family Values is open.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Older info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The North East face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
New as of 2018: a portion of the west face of this formation (at least from & including Monster Crack, 5.8, to & including Sword in the Stone, 5.8, and Big Sky) is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Access Issue: New Closure!
Details
New as of 2018: this formation is closed to climbing due to rock quality issues and wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
Description
New as of 2018: this route on this face of the formation is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
This route ascends the steepest part of the west face of Kindergarten Rock. Start on a ledge below a steep, green lichenous slab that leads up to a roof and a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral about 50 feet up.
Climb the slab past 4-5 pins on mostly moderate climbing, but with some fragile edges and flakes. About 5.8 with maybe one move of 5.9. At the roof, get ready for steep, sustained, pumpy climbing. Ascend the 5.10 corner which is well protected and take a rest at its top at an alcove. Pull through the overhang at the top of the alcove onto the vertical face above, and follow it past a few more pins to the anchor on a good ledge. The crux is the move just above the alcove. The climbing above this eases, but it is still challenging due to the pump factor.
Descent -- It is best to walk off to the south, as there are many very sharp edges on the face at the top of this climb. Top-roping, rappelling, or lowering from the anchor is not recommended. A climber died on this route in '93, due to slicing his rope at the top of the route. This was prior to the direct finish with 2-3 pins above the crux which were added after the accident. It is easy to see how one could be lured left onto unprotected and razor sharp face climbing, but just stick to the line of drilled angles, and you should be fine. This route is one of my favorites at the Garden. Go get it!
This route ascends the steepest part of the west face of Kindergarten Rock. Start on a ledge below a steep, green lichenous slab that leads up to a roof and a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral about 50 feet up.
Climb the slab past 4-5 pins on mostly moderate climbing, but with some fragile edges and flakes. About 5.8 with maybe one move of 5.9. At the roof, get ready for steep, sustained, pumpy climbing. Ascend the 5.10 corner which is well protected and take a rest at its top at an alcove. Pull through the overhang at the top of the alcove onto the vertical face above, and follow it past a few more pins to the anchor on a good ledge. The crux is the move just above the alcove. The climbing above this eases, but it is still challenging due to the pump factor.
Descent -- It is best to walk off to the south, as there are many very sharp edges on the face at the top of this climb. Top-roping, rappelling, or lowering from the anchor is not recommended. A climber died on this route in '93, due to slicing his rope at the top of the route. This was prior to the direct finish with 2-3 pins above the crux which were added after the accident. It is easy to see how one could be lured left onto unprotected and razor sharp face climbing, but just stick to the line of drilled angles, and you should be fine. This route is one of my favorites at the Garden. Go get it!
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