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help a kiddo choose protection

L. Von Dommelheimer · · Anchorage · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,835

All you need is stoppers and hexes. couples sets of each, maybe a couple of pins too for the gnar. If you feel real adventurous pick up some tricams.

grampa potate · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 5

If you are as awesome as you think you are, all you need is a chalkbag and some shoes. Why would you need protection with your resume?

Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
grampa potate wrote:If you are as awesome as you think you are, all you need is a chalkbag and some shoes. Why would you need protection with your resume?
I'm not Alex Honnold yet.... YET!
Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
Jake Jones wrote:Why does no one know how to spell Metolius?
Rocks for brains. The life of a climber.
JesseT · · Portland, OR · Joined May 2011 · Points: 100
RMS wrote:The scent of troll is strong in this one.
Norway is known for its trolls.
Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
JesseT wrote: Norway is known for its trolls.
I'm not a fekin troll
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Well if money doesn't matter

3 sets of C4
1 sets of X4
1 set of Aliens
1 set of master cams
1 set of tricams (double up on pink one cause it is gold)
1 set of every type of nuts they make (includes offsets)
15 quick draws
10 or so alpine draws
2 70m ropes
2 60m ropes (you don't always need 70 sand you can save weight)
Couple Belay devices (you can use them as a nut)
Soloist (never know)
Assorted rope for making Monkey's Fist Knot
1 really good flask (for when you get stuck on a tiny ledge and need to keep warm all night)

And last but not least... a bolt gun for when no other gear will go.

Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
ViperScale wrote:Well if money doesn't matter 3 sets of C4 1 sets of X4 1 set of Aliens 1 set of master cams 1 set of tricams (double up on pink one cause it is gold) 1 set of every type of nuts they make (includes offsets) 15 quick draws 10 or so alpine draws 2 70m ropes 2 60m ropes (you don't always need 70 sand you can save weight) Couple Belay devices (you can use them as a nut) Soloist (never know) Assorted rope for making Monkey's Fist Knot 1 really good flask (for when you get stuck on a tiny ledge and need to keep warm all night) And last but not least... a bolt gun for when no other gear will go.
Thanks. $4k is probably just about right.
rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847
Fabian Kolbergsrud Espeland wrote: I'm not a fekin troll
Avi Katz · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 260

Fabian, happy confirmation!
Don't let the internet get you down. Personal opinions will vary but you'll quickly learn your preferences. The good part is you can always sell gear on MountainProject if you decide you prefer a different set of gear.
Black Diamond C4's have been an industry benchmark for years-for good reason. Most people rarely need a full double set. Having doubles in select sizes (.75-3) can be supplemented with nuts or tricams to make a complete size range in a second set of gear.
.4-4
Set of nuts- nuts are literally chunks of metal. They generally work the same. Investing in a regular set and an offset set will give you options and you may find yourself carrying a hybrid set of the two types (I carry a mostly BD set of nuts with a few smaller offsets thrown in)
Tricams- Many new climbers tend to rag on tricams as being "old school." This is only because they are bad at placing them. Get really good at removing them, as it'll take some finesse.
Aliens are my favorite small cam, followed by the C3s

$4000 is a pretty huge sum for climbing gear. You could spend 1/4-1/3 of that on gear and have plenty left over. It may be worth investing some into a professional guide for some quality instruction with your new gear, or some kind of climbing trip.

Not a troll but maybe a....TROLLTUNGA????

A Troll...Tunga! Eh, eh, anyone?

Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
Avi Katz wrote:Fabian, happy confirmation! Don't let the internet get you down. Personal opinions will vary but you'll quickly learn your preferences. The good part is you can always sell gear on MountainProject if you decide you prefer a different set of gear. Black Diamond C4's have been an industry benchmark for years-for good reason. Most people rarely need a full double set. Having doubles in select sizes (.75-3) can be supplemented with nuts or tricams to make a complete size range in a second set of gear. .4-4 Set of nuts- nuts are literally chunks of metal. They generally work the same. Investing in a regular set and an offset set will give you options and you may find yourself carrying a hybrid set of the two types (I carry a mostly BD set of nuts with a few smaller offsets thrown in) Tricams- Many new climbers tend to rag on tricams as being "old school." This is only because they are bad at placing them. Get really good at removing them, as it'll take some finesse. Aliens are my favorite small cam, followed by the C3s $4000 is a pretty huge sum for climbing gear. You could spend 1/4-1/3 of that on gear and have plenty left over. It may be worth investing some into a professional guide for some quality instruction with your new gear, or some kind of climbing trip. Not a troll but maybe a....TROLLTUNGA????
Thanks a lot! I`m going for a complete set of c4`s and doubles 0.75 to 3 or 4. 3 is probably enough. 2 or 3 sets of nuts from dmm probably. camp tricams and a set of hexes from someone. I won`t spend them all, don`t worry.
This stuff is just cheaper in the US and I don`t want to have to get more for a couple of years at least. The girl I`m climbing with is probably getting more gear too so we can supplement eachother.

Thank you all for your help.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

Unless you are at an area that very specifically needs tricams, they are an utter waste. I don't say this as a young guy who can't use them. I say this as a guy who has been climbing trad for 20 years and can place them quite well and fast. They suck.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

Fabian, don't get 3 sets of nuts.

Get most of a full set, nothing larger than a .75 c4 (10 or 11 bd stopper). Then add more in the sizes in the middle of your nut rack. This can be different brands, or offsets. Get a full set of rp's, you'll use them eventually.

I get the feeling you are young, strong, and psyched so you'll probably be taking lots of falls on little gear. All metolius cams have poor durability when you are beating on them. X4 are also of suspect durability. Aliens, either the totem or fixe are just a much more durable design.

I really like the .3, .4, and .5 C4 as well. I don't place them as often as the aliens because they don't go in as smoothly but when I need a cam to take a lot of abuse on a project, they do inspire more confidence.

Another little hint, get a biner that is a different color than any other biner on your rack to hold nuts. Makes life easier.

Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
powhound84 wrote: How about you buy half of that and I will sell you a private crag for the other 2k? It even comes with a fountain of youth!
Where can i buy a crag for $ 2k?.... would love to have my own crag!
Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
nicelegs wrote:Fabian, don't get 3 sets of nuts. Get most of a full set, nothing larger than a .75 c4 (10 or 11 bd stopper). Then add more in the sizes in the middle of your nut rack. This can be different brands, or offsets. Get a full set of rp's, you'll use them eventually. I get the feeling you are young, strong, and psyched so you'll probably be taking lots of falls on little gear. All metolius cams have poor durability when you are beating on them. X4 are also of suspect durability. Aliens, either the totem or fixe are just a much more durable design. I really like the .3, .4, and .5 C4 as well. I don't place them as often as the aliens because they don't go in as smoothly but when I need a cam to take a lot of abuse on a project, they do inspire more confidence. Another little hint, get a biner that is a different color than any other biner on your rack to hold nuts. Makes life easier.
Thanks for the input. Was thinking about 1 set of wallnuts, 1 set of bd stoppers and 1 set of dmm offsets. I think im getting some tricams anyway. Maybe buy them used. They are a hassle to resling tough. Im will probably get a full set of c4's and some smaller like x4 maybe. Might wait a while the mini cams. 0.3 c4 is probably enough and I dont really place anything smaller in cams. Thanks
Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
rocknice2 wrote:
You're just jealous on my oil money. Good movie though. Have you seen it?
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I would get a few micro cams especially if I got the coin. I don't climb very hard but find value in small cams. A black or blue Alien or a .1 or .2 X4 comes in handy even if it's only for psychological pro. Ive also found good placements for Small TCUs in shallow cracks.

Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
Bill Kirby wrote: I would get a few micro cams especially if I got the coin. I don't climb very hard but find value in small cams. A black or blue Alien or a .1 or .2 X4 comes in handy even if it's only for psychological pro. Ive also found good placements for Small TCUs in shallow cracks.
Thanks will definitely think about it. Thing is I'd rather place a nut. Whatever. Small cams doesn't always help the mind. I will get some I think.
Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
powhound84 wrote: Would you like to buy a bridge in Brooklyn, as well? That'd be superb place for a troll such as yourself to post up.
I'm not a troll....
Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098
Fabian Kolbergsrud Espeland wrote: Thanks will definitely think about it. Thing is I'd rather place a nut. Whatever. Small cams doesn't always help the mind. I will get some I think.
It helps the mind even less when a nut doesn't slot where a cam will hold.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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