Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | ? Brian Cabe and LeAnn Jones climbed it August 2011 |
Page Views: | 799 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Nov 14, 2011 |
Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Ascends the obvious (and no doubt climbed a number of years ago) crack system on the NE side of BFD Rock.
Face climb directly above the boulders at the base. The "A" shaped face converges into a single hand/fist sized crack (past a couple of small bushes) which is climbed to a ledge. Climb to the summit with no pro (30' 5.5) on crumbly rock, or, belay at the ledge.
Face climb directly above the boulders at the base. The "A" shaped face converges into a single hand/fist sized crack (past a couple of small bushes) which is climbed to a ledge. Climb to the summit with no pro (30' 5.5) on crumbly rock, or, belay at the ledge.
Location
Route is the obvious face to steep hand/fist crack on the NE side of the formation, visible from the road.
Either simul rappel from the ledge (one person back down the face, the other down the chimney on the opposite side of the ledge: take care!) or scramble to the summit, and, either downclimb back to the ledge or scramble to the south. Might be a down climb option. Might have to leave a sling on a horn. Take care if the anchors to "the Smell" are approached as that anchor is VERY exposed and the bolts are '87 vintage (and look it) and are a washer stack of dubius quality.
Either simul rappel from the ledge (one person back down the face, the other down the chimney on the opposite side of the ledge: take care!) or scramble to the summit, and, either downclimb back to the ledge or scramble to the south. Might be a down climb option. Might have to leave a sling on a horn. Take care if the anchors to "the Smell" are approached as that anchor is VERY exposed and the bolts are '87 vintage (and look it) and are a washer stack of dubius quality.
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