Entering Crack Climbing

On smooth sandstone, you really shouldn't be seeing a lot of bruises unless you tend to whack your hands into things while trying to get into the crack. Aim to be more precise when you go to jam, and you might see fewer bruises.

You might be overjamming, or flexing more than necessary, so try relaxing (try on toprope first) until you feel like you're start to slide, then relax a little more.

Tape helps, but if its thick enough to consistently prevent bruises, you're probably using too much to get really secure jams.

Sometimes, with especially rough rock (Joshua Tree or Vedauwoo granites are especially bad about this), the ruggedness precludes solid jams without squeezing hard enough to leave bruises at the sites of crystals. In that case, eat more iron, take more pain killers, and endure.

FoxBurgess wrote:I'm new to pure cracks too. My technique sucks. I find that my hands get pretty sore/bruised after much jamming (with or without tape), is that normal or just my crappy technique?

There are at least two reasons:

1. Overgripping. Hands are for balance only (when climbing not really overhanging crack). All one's weight should be on theirs feet/core. If one's body is way off the wall, they are overgripping trying to hang on theirs hand jams. Thus one creates a lot of excessive tension on a back side of theirs palms. The same situation as in face climbing, but consequences are a bit different.

2. Replacing your hand jams over and over again. One doesn't need the best hand jam ever. Good enough hand jam is enough (ref. the previous paragraph - hands are for balance only when climbing not that overhanging crack). Force yourself to jam immediately after reaching a good enough spot. Make this an everyday "the first touch" drill - climb a couple of easy routes without rejamming/replacing feet, rejamming/replacing hands. Use the hold/constriction/pocket/etc as you touch it from the very first attemp. Do not stop, do not chalk up. Move, move, move, move, move. Do it slowly. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

There could be (and most likely they actually exist) other technical issues. The best you can do is to find an(some) experienced climber(s) and ask them to evaluate your climbing.

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