So about Eldo...

For those climbers with experience at Eldo and also a variety of other areas, I'd be interested to hear your opinion on how Eldo stacks up.

Most of my trad experience has been there so far, with just a little in SSV Canyon and Duncan's Ridge. I've heard people say Eldo has a lot of loose and bad rock. I've heard the pro is difficult. I've heard others call it scary. I've heard the climbing is unusual and that the cruxes are short. But I don't have much to compare it to.

I can see that learning to trad lead in a place where all of these things are true could be very beneficial, but I am a little concerned that going to other areas with more sustained climbing at the grade will get me in over my head. I've asked the more experienced guys I've climbed with, but I'd like to hear from anyone who'd care to comment.

All you could ever need to know:

mountainproject.com/v/in-el…

There definitely are chossy bands of rock, but you know where they are and the climbing through those tends to be easy. Eldo at the same time boast some of the hardest sandstone I've ever seen/climbed. The pro tends to be thin, RP's are almost mandatory on your rack, which is why I think people say the pro is "tricky." The cruxes generally are short and there is almost a jug that you're shooting for.

I think Eldo is one of the best trad climbing crags in the states. The climbing is very aesthetic, unique and thought provoking. I grew up climbing in Jtree and though the areas are very different they have a lot of similarities, so I may be biased.

Back up the fixed gear and have a blast Man!

Ryan Kempf wrote:There definitely are chossy bands of rock, but you know where they are and the climbing through those tends to be easy. Eldo at the same time boast some of the hardest sandstone I've ever seen/climbed. The pro tends to be thin, RP's are almost mandatory on your rack, which is why I think people say the pro is "tricky." The cruxes generally are short and there is almost a jug that your shooting for. I think Eldo is one of the best trad climbing crags in the states. The climbing is very aesthetic, unique and thought provoking. I grew up climbing in Jtree and though the areas are very different they have a lot of similarities, so I may be biased. Back up the fixed gear and have a blast Man!

Agreed^^^

Also being 6 mins from my house helps. Just like any area really (except Indian Creek)...as the grade gets harder the moves get more thought provoking and sometimes gear can be sparse.

I think wherever you learn will always feel "right" as far as grading, and anytime you climb somewhere the style is significantly different, there will be an adjustment period.

I'm a Gunks climber, so those grades ring true for me. The first time I climbed at Eldo, my first thought was, "Anyone who thinks the Gunks are sandbagged never climbed here." Of course, after getting some climbing under my belt, it magically started to feel reasonable for the grade (though placements still seemed trickier). Same thing when I first climbed at Lumpy. Everything felt insecure, every crack seemed insanely flared, etc.

So get out and climb at other places and don't be discouraged if it all feels wrong somehow at first. Sooner or later, it will feel right.

Mathias wrote:...but I am a little concerned that going to other areas with more sustained climbing at the grade will get me in over my head.

A good practice is to start out well below your lead level at any new area and work your way up. Numbers are just numbers, they are super subjective. Stay humble, don't let your ego push you into getting on something hard at a new area. Take the time to get used to the rock at the new area.

Even when you've climbed for years at an area, you have to get used to the rock again when you head back - as everyone knows who climbs a winter at Joshua Tree then heads back to Yosemite slabs!

As others have said, it'll probably feel harder at first, but not so much because it actually is, but because it is simply a new style.

Eldo has quite a few routes (1500?), and so unless you climb 5.15 there should be something for everyone. Yeah, there are quite a few chossy, runout, tricky climbs, but there is also an amazing amount solid and safe climbs from 5.2 on up. If you don't have a guidebook yet, pick one up! The book is a great read by itself and a good way to pick out your first climbs and get stoked. Get out there and get climbing, Eldo is great and very unique!

Thanks for all the replies!

Just to be clear (as some may have missed it) I DO climb in Eldo. Most of the trad I've done, I've done there. I love it! I was just very curious of other climbers' perceptions of the area because it's often talked about with reverence, or in some cases nervousness.

And I'm not so much interested in whether a 5.9 there was harder or softer than a 5.9 somewhere else, but more whether the short cruxes and varied climbing through a single pitch was atypical. Just because I could see those things presenting a problem when I venture out elsewhere. Although starting a few grades low in a new area does make a lot of sense, and is something I'd considered after reading somewhere else on MP.

Lumpy is somewhere I've yet to climb, but it's close and I really should (and will soon). How does it compare?

The main thing to keep in mind when going other places besides eldo, is that the cruxes in eldo are typically very short. While they might make you very good with your footwork and mind control, they often do little to stimulate the forearms. Of course there are a few exceptions to this thought (center route, evictor, hair styles, etc). Typically I think you'll notice areas like the south platte and lumpy are noticeably more sustained with fewer stances/rests.

Eldo is a great place to train for the weirdness you'll encounter anywhere (both gear and movement)!

I too learned in Eldo. I've climbed there more than any other single area, but most of my time has been away from Eldo. I think its scary, however, a bomber nut there is unquestionably the best mental duct tape in existence.

I find the cruxes are scarier and the movements are far more fun than most other areas, even if shorter. The climbs at Eldo don't seem to be strength related and don't make me feel tired. I can't recall feeling pumped at Eldo, compared to splat or penitente where I have felt pumped in minutes. If you can do T2 or a linkup, you'll probably be fine anywhere but the black or the diamond.

There is plenty of "questionable" rock. Like that 20lb flake that will most likely hold a fall, but do you want to drop it on your partners head if you're wrong? There is far more amazing, bullet hard rock. Hard enough to run it out above a #5 nut, and feel completely safe.

All of the rumors are true! Don't go there. Did you mention the long lines for the classics? Rattle snakes? Deadly river crossings? Questioning hikers? Crazed, rabid raptors?

Check out Golden Gate Canyon instead. That's where the true gems are.

-Bob

The beginning of my trad climbing days were in Eldo. Personally I am glad I learned there. Just like you said there are many obstacles there, loose rock, finicky thin gear, long run outs, obscure climbing, etc... that will help you become a well rounded climber.

If you learned to climb in Eldo. And you pushed your limits to the degree which you were taking reasonable size falls in Eldo, and your gear held and you didt take too many ground falls, you should be safe to venture into most areas. What ever you may lack in the physical aspect of the climbing you will build over time. The important thing is that you learned to place gear in an area that is known for small and difficult gear, these skills will keep you safe while you build up your strength.