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Mental Techniques

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Luke Utley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 15

Hi everybody, I know there is plenty of reading online about different mental strategies to conquer a hard problem/route, but I wanted to ask you all what your tried and true methods are?
What gets you in the zone and keeps you there when you're at the wall? How do you focus to get that big push when you need it?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Luke Utley wrote:Hi everybody, I know there is plenty of reading online about different mental strategies to conquer a hard problem/route, but I wanted to ask you all what your tried and true methods are? What gets you in the zone and keeps you there when you're at the wall? How do you focus to get that big push when you need it?
Knowing that my partner is doing the leading helps keep me more calm. :)
kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

My theory is that (other than getting good at visually memorizing a sequence, and taking care to eliminate obvious big distractions), there are no "mental tricks" for most climbers.

Because most climbers are self-selected for already being very capable in the kinds of focus and confidence needed to succeed in the kind of climbing they choose. One of the main reasons many people choose climbing is because it reliably draws them into that kind of focus (or "flow").

The context of the rock and the route (sometimes the audience?) drive our unconscious mental and neural centers to our best approximation of a good focus. If that doesn't happen, I doubt that conscious mental tricks matter much.

Sometimes I've tried positive thinking and then failed on a sequence.

Several times I've tried negative thinking and then succeeded. That is, I sincerely believed I wouldn't succeed because the guidebook grade was above my "limit", and anyway the route just looked too hard. I told my partner that he was going to have to re-climb the route to retrieve the draws, but as long as the rope was up I would give it a shot. I was thrilled happy surprised when I got all the moves -- but it had nothing to do with "positive thinking" or any other "mental strategy".

Ken

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

for me it's just the adrenaline from fear. i have held on to a tiny crimp after my feet slipped once, and if i wasn't free soloing i likely would have let go. i would think the same thing goes for highball bouldering, that is simply an assumption because i don't really dabble in pebble wrestling.
that being said, i'd love to hear other suggestions

Kent Richards · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 81
Luke Utley wrote:How do you focus to get that big push when you need it?
I say to myself: "Self, it's time for a big push."
Kent Richards · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 81

Honestly, I remove the word "need". The only time I "need" a push is when there's some danger I need to get away from. Otherwise, I just listen to my body. If I don't feel like climbing, I don't climb.

So, when I "want" -- which is far different from "need" -- I do my best to apply rational thinking / CBT type strategies to move past the emotions and whatnot.

Note that it doesn't always work...

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

For me, reducing my focus to the smallest steps possible, whether it's as big as mentally preparing for a crux sequence, or as small as getting good feet for a reach.

Also for me, I place gear based more on fear than anything. Maybe that's bad. When it's easy cruising with no deck potential I don't give it much thought. But when the moves are hard or there's a potentially dangerous fall involved (like above a ledge for example), I sew it up. This strategy mostly just serves to alleviate my fear. I get more sketched out being 15 feet up without the first piece in, than being high up on an exposed crux.

Brian Lee Victory · · Austin, TX · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 165

Hey Luke, there are several good books written on the subject of mental techniques, one of which is in the book "Espresso Lessons". Dave MacLeod(check out his blog) also has great insights into the mental aspects of climbing.

Mental Techniques:

Visualization-If I'm excited about a project that I'm going to spend sometime on and know that I'll give it a good red point attempt next week I'll try to keep the moves fresh in my mind throughout the week.

In a quiet area, close your eyes and try to replay the whole climb(either from a 3rd person perspective or from your point of view) trying to remain focused from the moment you step on the wall to the anchors. While visualizing try to be present with every move, and have the feeling be as close to simulating the thoughts of climbing as you can. This positive visualization of sending a route is very important to me.

Dealing with Fear-Take safe practice falls. When hesitant about a fall look at the 1.)wall angle 2.)trajectory and 3.)orientation of you and the rope

Eventually, with experience of taking practice falls and getting used to safe falls one can run those factors in their mind and feel more at ease when making crux moves above their last piece of protection.

Thinking and Moving-Macro,Micro and mini points of thinking-On the ground at the crag, or a ledge during multi pitch you can think about the whole route and plot out rest areas,etc. When on the wall, using a rest jug,knee bar or other area where one can regain their composure and gain some rest you can think about the next few moves until another rest area(another micro area). In a mini thinking area, such as a series of sustained moves you can only think a few moves ahead, especially of course during the crux, where thinking about the whole climb ahead could break your concentration and failure on the hardest moves.

With practice one can use these points throughout a climb to think and then commit to a move, problem solve and then act.

Don Ferris III · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

Long deep breaths help for me. Seems to make the pump go away. I try to combine that with full effort at flawless tequnique. After that if I fall I fall.

Cody Robinson · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 40

When your placing pro or at a rest, scope out where the next placements will probably be and what you have to do to get there. Fully commit to that next section mentally before leaving your gear/rest, then power through it. Nothing's worse than being pumped above your gear with no real plan. If you fully accept what you're getting into beforehand, you'll be able to focus solely on the moves. Also when in doubt, run it out. If the fall is safe and there's a decent chance of sending, it's better to punch it through the crux rather than pump out placing psychological pro. Deep breaths always help too. I highly recommend reading "The Rock Warrior's Way", the whole book is about the mental game of climbing.

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

My mentor is a great source of positive reinforcement. But when I find myself alone at a crux I don't think I can do and I'm scared I'm gonna fall, I try and visualize it as a bouldering problem and say "Come on! You boulder harder than this! You're on a rope, so just get it done!" It usually works.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847
Luke Utley wrote:Hi everybody, I know there is plenty of reading online about different mental strategies to conquer a hard problem/route, but I wanted to ask you all what your tried and true methods are? What gets you in the zone and keeps you there when you're at the wall? How do you focus to get that big push when you need it?
That really depends on what's keeping you from pushing your limit.
Justin Brunson · · Tacoma WA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 2,266

I swear a lot. It helps a lot, oddly.
(I don't swear much when I'm not climbing)

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

Thinking of the crazy moves that the pros can manage. Wanting to climb harder, trying to beat the pump, not knowing if there will be THAT good rail or jug to rest on in the next couple of moves, as if you're running toward a cliff at full speed, believing there will be a cloud that's thick enough to catch you. Taking whippers without intending to--there's less room for being scared that way, if you're not expecting your foot to slip, for example. I think the biggest reason is watching the veterans do it. Without them making things believable, we have no faith.

Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740
Dylan B. wrote:I'm a neurotic mess. You don't want my "mental technique."
I think this goes for me, too. I can have a twisted mind. I don't get along very well with those that, seemingly, have a shallow, narrow mind. And that's most people. But, I like being alone. I hate getting slowed down by others with a different agenda.
pkeds · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30

+1 for rock warriors way.

for me it has helped pushing myself physically or mentally but seldom both on the same climb. i would hate to be on a line that is at or beyond my limit with tricky gear/runout sections.

leading on terrain that is phsyically at my limit requires 100% focus and doesnt leave much room to think about the fall im gonna take.

beer at the end of a day of hard climbing is normally a good motivator as well. especially if it is warm tecate. *makes eagle claw hand signal summoning said warm tecate*

tecate summon!

ive also heard that aid climbing helps one realize how strong your placements can be even the shitty ones

Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

When I start feeling sketched, whether it be because I'm in the middle of a long run out, above a bolt on the crux, or feeling unsure of my last placement I try to find a good place to rest, close my eyes, and just breath. I find if I focus on my breathing and nothing else the fear goes away. Another trick I use to prevent me from getting to this point is talking to myself, whistling or singing a song along the way.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

It's not techniques, like self-affirmation or things you do in the moment, it's mostly about preparation before you ever get to the route. Conditioning yourself to CLIMB when it gets hard, instead of wishing it were easier or that you had more pro, or re-evaluating, chalking over and over in a place that isn't a rest to avoid having to engage your fear, or "hold shopping" in the middle of the crux.

Many ways to condition yourself to do that, depending on how you learn. Two things I've seen work for many:

1. Take a ton of progressively longer, safe falls. MacCleod is right in 9 out of 10. Not a couple, once a month. A couple hundred, and a good dozen or so every time you go climbing until it clicks. Std desensitization.

2. Sport climb at/above your limit where you have to fight so hard to stay on the rock that there is no room for anything else...no room for thinking about the fall, no room for looking down over and over, no endless chalking. That should lead to climbing instead of pausing, delaying, or refusing to commit when you're faced with an uncertain outcome/hard sequence.

I'm mostly a trad climber and boulderer, but I always try to put in some sport mileage every season, in a concentrated dose, for that kind of reason. You can't revert to "I think I want more gear" and hang out in stressful spots messing with pro, you have to go to the next bolt. It's a funny contradiction to me where sport is more committing than many trad routes in that sense. Taking fall after fall after fall, and knowing I'm going to that next bolt, or I'm taking the whip so I better fight when it gets hard...it pays big dividends.

All the new age woo-woo bullshit might get you laid at the local crystal convention in Sedona, but it ain't getting you up a hard route. Go take the falls, there isn't a shortcut.

Kent Richards · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 81
Will S wrote:It's not techniques, like self-affirmation or things you do in the moment, it's mostly about preparation before you ever get to the route. Conditioning yourself to CLIMB when it gets hard, instead of wishing it were easier or that you had more pro, or re-evaluating, chalking over and over in a place that isn't a rest to avoid having to engage your fear, or "hold shopping" in the middle of the crux. Many ways to condition yourself to do that, depending on how you learn. Two things I've seen work for many: 1. Take a ton of progressively longer, safe falls. MacCleod is right in 9 out of 10. Not a couple, once a month. A couple hundred, and a good dozen or so every time you go climbing until it clicks. Std desensitization. 2. Sport climb at/above your limit where you have to fight so hard to stay on the rock that there is no room for anything else...no room for thinking about the fall, no room for looking down over and over, no endless chalking. That should lead to climbing instead of pausing, delaying, or refusing to commit when you're faced with an uncertain outcome/hard sequence. I'm mostly a trad climber and boulderer, but I always try to put in some sport mileage every season, in a concentrated dose, for that kind of reason. You can't revert to "I think I want more gear" and hang out in stressful spots messing with pro, you have to go to the next bolt. It's a funny contradiction to me where sport is more committing than many trad routes in that sense. Taking fall after fall after fall, and knowing I'm going to that next bolt, or I'm taking the whip so I better fight when it gets hard...it pays big dividends. All the new age woo-woo bullshit might get you laid at the local crystal convention in Sedona, but it ain't getting you up a hard route. Go take the falls, there isn't a shortcut.
A helpful mental technique that I do in the moment is to ask myself "Do I really have anything to be afraid of at this moment? Am I actually at risk of getting really hurt, or is that just irrational fear kicking in?". Along the same lines as CBT, it's about analyzing what's actually happening vs what the fear is about, and then making a choice to listen to reason.
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

The term "conquer" implies a success/failure mentality, which is opposite of what makes climbing enjoyable for me. I got really caught up in self expectations based on numbers in the past to the point where it wasn't fun or rewarding any more. It took a long time to realize I climb better and harder when progress just comes on its own, letting it happen rather than trying to make it happen. Trying to make it happen also resulted in overuse injuries.

Staying with a calm flow mindset is the mental/physical challenge to me, (though necessarily puctuated at times with particular mental focus and physical effort.) The best mental state is no mental stress despite the mental/physical challenges, no worry about success or failure, no ambition, just climbing.

My own most useful technique to deal with tension is to think down first, i.e. down to the feet first then up through the body. Find the better or sometimes smaller foot holds that offer a better balanced more efficient body position, or even move back down to the last rest. Adjust body position accordingly, relax and turn down tense thoughts. Even small adjustments like how a foot is placed on a hold can entirely change body position and reduce energy expenditure. Reduce tension in the body and degrip, reassess from the calmer place and move on.

Looking ahead is also useful, though not from bad position. Think down first, re-establish then think onward.

Falling practice is good too. It's been a while, need to do more myself.

Lothian Buss · · Durango, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

Here is something different. Try swimming underwater laps in a 25 meter pool without coming up for air. One lap is out and back, takes a little while to work up to. Teaches you to remain calm in the face of rising panic, as you must conserve oxygen and move slowly, despite needing to come up for air.

I think it's worth a go if you've got easy access to a pool.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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