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Should I start with a beginner shoe or go with something more advanced?

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115

I've taught a lot of people to climb. Beginner shoes are great for one thing... Keeping people climbing at a beginner level.

Obviously if you're strong or experienced you can wear any shoe.

Gavin W · · NW WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 181

One thing to consider is that as a beginner, until your technique improves your footwork will be inefficient, and more likely to tear up your shoes. Your shoe choice likely won't be the limiting factor until you get better, so consider the cost. I would go with something at a beginner to intermediate level (my first shoes were Scarpa Helix and I was really happy with them). Like others have said, just make sure that it's something that fits.

CCas · · Bend, OR · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 145

Here is a great post from a blog I follow that I have passed along to a bunch of my friends who are just getting into climbing and looking for shoes... hopefully it helps. Good luck!

seekingexposure.com/rock-cl…

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804
CCase wrote:Here is a great post from a blog I follow that I have passed along to a bunch of my friends who are just getting into climbing and looking for shoes... hopefully it helps. Good luck! seekingexposure.com/rock-cl…
Good article. Lots of beginner climbers get shoes that are too tight because some guy in REI/EMS/etc. who has been climbing for a year in the gym convinced them they need to hurt.
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Brian wrote: Good article. Lots of beginner climbers get shoes that are too tight because some guy in REI/EMS/etc. who has been climbing for a year in the gym convinced them they need to hurt.
I've experienced the opposite. I bought my first pair at REI. The guy sized them too big. The shoe worn down farther than the very front edge of the sole.
CCas · · Bend, OR · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 145
Brian wrote: Good article. Lots of beginner climbers get shoes that are too tight because some guy in REI/EMS/etc. who has been climbing for a year in the gym convinced them they need to hurt.
Yea agree. The whole tight shoe thing is just poor beta. For 98% of the climbing population a comfortable fit w/ toes just touching the end is good enough. If you are avoiding taking another burn because your feet hurt then your shoes are doing the opposite of what they were meant for... climbing.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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