help a kiddo choose protection

Eli Buzzell wrote: I'd say climbing isn't even about climbing hard, and you're naive to think it is. Get a set of BD C4's from .3 to 3, a set of BD nuts, and a bunch of extendable draws. After that you should be able to lead almost anything but the splitterest cracks. You're going to find that you want at least doubles of everything, and that having enough gear is never enough. You'll also want to get some weird gear for those odd placements where cams and nuts don't work. Make sure when you're working on the next crazy 5.13 R route you have some ball nuts to show that you're a real badass hardman. Good luck.

FrankPS wrote: I say, "Good for you." From where I stand, it doesn't matter. And it doesn't make you a better person. Or more a knowledgeable or experienced climber. Someday, you'll grow up and realize it's not competitive and there will be people that climb harder than you. And it doesn't matter. But I wish you luck. In your climbing and maturing!

Would anyone recommend offsets?
I don't find myself placing them alot but people say they are great for granite. Should I get some?

Jake Jones wrote: If you're climbing granite that has been nailed with pitons, then yes, small offset cams can be invaluable for protecting pin scars. However, if you're just looking to protect irregular cracks, get creative with passive pro, and use offset nuts that were suggested. It'll make you a better climber in the long run. If you can quickly pick the correct piece for a difficult placement and make it work, it will transfer to lightning fast placements that are obvious.

JoeCrawford wrote:1 set of Metolius Mastercams 00-4 1 set of BD x4 0.1-0.5 2 sets of BD C4 .75-3 1 set of BD C4 4-5 1 set of DMM Offset Nuts 1 set of DMM Peanuts That's about what I climb with these days.

If money wasn't a consideration, I would definitely go for at least a set of Totem cams. They're easily the best cams on the market right now, but they're damn expensive. They only have 5sizes so you'll need to pick up something else on the smaller and larger ends of the Totem's range, I recommend Aliens, X4s, or master cams on the small end, and C4s on the large end. DMM offsets are great nuts btw. Don't forget to get a ton of slings and wire gate biners for making alpine draws.

From small to large

A set of micro nuts, your choice brassies peenuts etc

Two sets of nuts your choice of brand, one standard one offset. Don't need doubles more than 1/2" but having them doesn't hurt

Totem basics set

BD C4 full range from 0.3-6, with doubles 0.5 through 3 or 4.

BD C4's .5 - 3, Master cams 0-2 for your micros, double up on whatever sizes you think you need based on where you climb, nuts are nuts so whatever...

Eldo 5.7 and Gunks 5.7 are both 5.7. They are quite easy and if you feel like a hero for climbing them, that's a reflection of your lack of skill, not evidence of sandbagging. To the OP, a double set of .5 to 3. A 4. 5, and 6. Then you need Aliens or some new wobbly equivalent Black to red, In the green through red, you need doubles. A set of BD nuts, 3 to 10. 10-12 2ft slings with biners. Offsets, big bro's, ballnuts, and rp's if you find yourself needing them. Don't buy them unless you are lacking though.

nicelegs wrote: Eldo 5.7 and Gunks 5.7 are both 5.7. They are quite easy and if you feel like a hero for climbing them, that's a reflection of your lack of skill, not evidence of sandbagging. To the OP, a double set of .5 to 3. A 4. 5, and 6. Then you need Aliens or some new wobbly equivalent Black to red, In the green through red, you need doubles. A set of BD nuts, 3 to 10. 10-12 2ft slings with biners. Offsets, big bro's, ballnuts, and rp's if you find yourself needing them. Don't buy them unless you are lacking though.

Ok ok.. I'll write down my rack. I love the way this kid brings out the butt hurt in everybody!

Doubles of .5-3 BD C4 and one 4 C4. A set of BD X4s

A set of TCUs and a set of Aliens.

A set of BD stoppers 1-13 a set of Tri Cams and a set of DMM Walnuts.

10 trad draws and 10 QDs. I'll let you pick which.

Here are my two cents.

DMM Peanuts are amazing for granite Crack climbing.
The DMM brass nuts are also very useful.
I would then recommend the DMM Alloy offset nuts.

For cams I can highly recommend the Dragon cams and the Metholius Mastercams.
Especially the offset Mastercams are nice for granite.
Many of my friends swear by the Alien and Alien offset cams.

I have also heard great things about the Totem Cams. Especially the Blue and Yellow size. Don't buy the red one, it's too wobbly.

powhound84 wrote: Ratings are subjective and vary greatly from gym to gym and crag to crag. There are plenty of areas in the US that have sandbagged ratings. I don't know much about Norway climbing though, so I'm not downplaying your climbing or your crag. Just saying that a 5.8 isn't always easier than a 5.10 depending on the type of route and area. You know who the best climber at the crag is? The one having the most fun while being safe and not disrupting those around him/her. Have fun out there, be safe and be respectful!

nicelegs wrote: Eldo 5.7 and Gunks 5.7 are both 5.7. They are quite easy and if you feel like a hero for climbing them, that's a reflection of your lack of skill, not evidence of sandbagging. To the OP, a double set of .5 to 3. A 4. 5, and 6. Then you need Aliens or some new wobbly equivalent Black to red, In the green through red, you need doubles. A set of BD nuts, 3 to 10. 10-12 2ft slings with biners. Offsets, big bro's, ballnuts, and rp's if you find yourself needing them. Don't buy them unless you are lacking though.

Bill Kirby wrote:Ok ok.. I'll write down my rack. I love the way this kid brings out the butt hurt in everybody! Doubles of .5-3 BD C4 and one 4 C4. A set of BD X4s A set of TCUs and a set of Aliens. A set of BD stoppers 1-13 a set of Tri Cams and a set of DMM Walnuts. 10 trad draws and 10 QDs. I'll let you pick which.

Moritz B. wrote:Here are my two cents. DMM Peanuts are amazing for granite Crack climbing. The DMM brass nuts are also very useful. I would then recommend the DMM Alloy offset nuts. For cams I can highly recommend the Dragon cams and the Metholius Mastercams. Especially the offset Mastercams are nice for granite. Many of my friends swear by the Alien and Alien offset cams. I have also heard great things about the Totem Cams. Especially the Blue and Yellow size. Don't buy the red one, it's too wobbly.

Jake Jones wrote:Why does no one know how to spell Metolius?

Same reason why people write Cliff bar instead of Clif bar.

Bill Kirby wrote:Ok ok.. I'll write down my rack. I love the way this kid brings out the butt hurt in everybody! Doubles of .5-3 BD C4 and one 4 C4. A set of BD X4s A set of TCUs and a set of Aliens. A set of BD stoppers 1-13 a set of Tri Cams and a set of DMM Walnuts. 10 trad draws and 10 QDs. I'll let you pick which.