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Half Rack Trad Routes in the Wasatch?

Original Post
Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

Can anyone familiar with Big/Little Cottonwood areas recommend some routes that can be climbed with a limited rack? I have one full set of stoppers, a set of tricams from .125-2.0 and 3 cams (.5, .75, and 1.0). The only 2 routes I've climbed so far on this limited amount of gear are Daily Diatribe at Challenge and Layback Crack over at Storm Mountain. The routes don't need a bolted belay up top but it would be nice to have that or a tree/boulder to sling so I can avoid the problem of not having the needed gear when I reach the top of the pitch. Thanks in advance for any good leads! Cheers!

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

go buy two larger wired hexes to fill in for the #2 and #3cams and your rack is complete for most of the routes.

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 790

Heh. Reminds me of my early days when our collective rack was 1 set of nuts and 2 cams. It just made everything interesting (read: run out) though.

Without too much thought, I'd say the easier grades and thinner crack routes in BCC are more friendly to such a rack in general.

Bill M · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 317

Larger hexes do work, they sure beat nothing.

michael voth · · Ft. Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

you can probably do pentapitch. only a couple spots where a #2 is nice, and theres other gear nearby

Travis Haussener · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 60

If you're good and comfortable placing stoppers, bushwhack crack, the coffin, crescent crack 1st pitch, beckeys wall, short corner, pentapitch def 1st four pitches

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

I live near the mouth of LCC. You're welcome to borrow whatever you need from my rack. PM me

Scott Morris · · Bountiful, UT · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 853

Crack Face on Reservoir Ridge would probably fit the bill. It's got chain anchors up top and is a really fun route. There's another one nearby called "Shale for Sale"on the Dam Wall that shares a chain anchor with Fall Equinox. Not spectacular but still pretty fun. Beachball crag also has several fun easy trad climbs that don't require tons of gear. (Reach the Beach, Masters of the Obvious).

Good luck!

Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

Thanks for all the great suggestions guys! Greatly appreciated! Looks like I have enough to keep me busy for the next few weekends. If any of you care to join me on a sat or sunday feel free to pm me. Cheers! =)

Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

Just climbed the 1st to pitches of Pentapitch this last weekend. Definitely the classic it's hailed to be! Thanks again for the suggestions! I think it's on to Bushwhack Crack or P1 of Schoolroom this next weekend. Cheers! =)

Scott Morris · · Bountiful, UT · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 853

That's awesome! I've been wanting to get on that route myself! What is the anchor situation at the top of those pitches?

Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

Scott,

We may have combined pitches using a 70m, but the first anchor is a giant tree that you can sling. The 2nd is the same but instead of having to straddle the tree to belay there is a sweet ledge system you can stand on. From there you can scramble up to the last two pitches. The 4th has a set of chains that you use for a hanging belay or you can combine this with the 5th up to a huge tree that is wrapped with slings as well. By far one of the best routes I've ever been on. That may or may not be saying much. Lol!

Scott Morris · · Bountiful, UT · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 853

Thanks for the info! The pictures of the route posted here on MP make me drool.

sherpajames Huntsman · · West Jordan · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 300

I'm looking to climb a bunch of fun moderate routes this summer if you need a partener let me know.

Allen Briggs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 140

Some of the moderates in Ferguson would be great for a smaller rack. Check out:
The Confessional
Holy Grail
Inner Light
Celestial Ascension

NickO · · West Slope · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 30

Losing my Religion on The Waterfront in LCC. 3 short pitches. Smattering of bolts and a few placements.

If you do Sweet Jane Variation in 2 pitches you should be golden. Probably take it up a few more on Tingeys with what you have too.

Cranial Prophylactic.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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